Relay

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slim jim

slim jim

Active Member
Posts
575
Im putting two 55 watt work lamps on the back of my 110 hard top. I will be using a 4 pin 30 amp relay. Through a search Iv found that pin 30 to battery, pin 87 to lights, pin 86 earth and pin 85 to switch. Now there are 3 connecting points on the switch (power,acc,ground) and I think the power one connects to the relay so my question is what to do with the other two wires that come through cable from the switch?
 
i'd reckon "power" on the switch goes to the live feed - and "acc" goes to the relay

use a continuity tester to make sure
 
Thanks for your fast reply Sean have patience with me here I have time to spare so Ill get this done myself dont care how long it takes. So if I undrstand you I have to bring power to the switch separately?
 
1A fused 12 volt into the "power" conn on the switch - "acc" from switch to relay coil 1 - relay coil 2 to 0v

and then work out the size of the fuse for the main live feed for the lights - this will run direct to the relay and then to the lights
 
Ur looking to start a fire if your not careful...........
The whole point of a relay is that you take a low ampage feed to the dashboard, where you switch the switch. The relay then connects the full supply to the lights or whatever........
Don't take an un-fused supply to the dashboard unless you got good insurance.........
 
Thanks for all the answers men, Mysteryman yes I can follow that, and I cant afford to burn it:flame. I wil bring power to the switch via the back lights if anyone has any objections speak now or else Ill fry
 
back lights?

Personally, i would look for an ignition switchd live. They are normally white. That way you won't be able to leave the lights on without the ignition.

Or, if you want to be able to have them on without the key, run a FRESH, FUSED line from the battery to the switch - that way if you ever want to take them out, your original loom is just that bit less ****ed around.

I did, my wiring loom is now back to standard, with every electrical extra having its own supply from a home made distro panel and its own proper fuse, that way I know its going to work, be simple to add to later, and, most importantly, NOT CATCH FIRE. :)

Oh an put any fuse as close to the power source as possible.
 
boydy1989 said:
back lights?

Personally, i would look for an ignition switchd live. They are normally white. That way you won't be able to leave the lights on without the ignition.

Or, if you want to be able to have them on without the key, run a FRESH, FUSED line from the battery to the switch - that way if you ever want to take them out, your original loom is just that bit less ****ed around.

I did, my wiring loom is now back to standard, with every electrical extra having its own supply from a home made distro panel and its own proper fuse, that way I know its going to work, be simple to add to later, and, most importantly, NOT CATCH FIRE. :)

Oh an put any fuse as close to the power source as possible.
Click to expand...
Well I did not know I could do that. It would be so handy,so no problem wiring the switch and relay to the same battery terminal then
 
not a problem at all.

Just make sure they have their own fuses, and that the fuses are as close to the battery as possible.

To make it easier and safer for you:
One 55w bulb needs a 5amp fuse. So your live for the relay needs a 10amp fuse in it.

The relay trigger current is about 0.4amps i think, so fit a 1amp fuse in the line to the switch.

That way, both feeds are safe, and if for some reason (like a wire coming loose and shorting) too much current is drawn, the fuse will pop and nothing will catch fire. Job done! Just make sure your earths are good then an your off!
 
Right I think Iv got it. So with that system I could put a switch that lights up on the dash, so I wont forget it when the engine is off or when somebody behind me dose not dip their lights
 
Hi, thanks for the link - so a direct connection to the battery is the best feed for the lights (via a relay & fuse?)

Cheers,

Al
 
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