Recommend me some oil

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LG199714 said:
Interesting, but how did the engines fail because of synthetic oil?

So your claiming the oil didn’t lubricate properly therefore there was a malfunction somewhere possible the piston rings which resulted in oil getting into the combustion chamber and burning off???

either wrong viscosity was used, worn engine or someone didn’t hone the motor properly. It wasn’t because of synthetic oil lol. how did you prove this?
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Pretty sure I did not claim anything, I merely stated the facts as I saw them with my own eyes at the time as they happened.
Rods out the side of the blocks, crank shells spun up wrecking the crank, turbos not making their usual 5 years before failure, oil consumption off the chart, oil leaks beyond a joke, all old trucks but the same era as the 200/300tdi engines.

This would be back in the early 90s, back then no normal person said lol, not ever.

I can say hand on heart that mineral oil is the oil for the tdis.
 
Chalky. said:
You'd recommend fully synthetic for what is essentially a refined tractor engine??

And of course the frequency of oil changes is a factor, 3 or 4 times a year and almost whatever oil you chuck in it won't do any harm, within reason. Regularity of oil and filter changes is what keeps an engine going for 1000's upon 1000's of k's.
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Yes, again, you get less friction with a fully synthetic as mentioned before because the molecules within the oil are uniformed, but circuit flow, as shown, less varnish and probably sludge buildup, and they contain less impurities than conventional. Choice is yours if it works for you all good
 
Okay okay
lynall said:
Pretty sure I did not claim anything, I merely stated the facts as I saw them with my own eyes at the time as they happened.
Rods out the side of the blocks, crank shells spun up wrecking the crank, turbos not making their usual 5 years before failure, oil consumption off the chart, oil leaks beyond a joke, all old trucks but the same era as the 200/300tdi engines.

This would be back in the early 90s, back then no normal person said lol, not ever.

I can say hand on heart that mineral oil is the oil for the tdis.
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what are you claiming with the way I spell? 🤣 get with the times. You’re still using mineral oil, upgrade to full synthetic. I went from “far out” to “lol”
 
lynall said:
Mannol range on ebay 20/25 ltr barrels at sensible prices.
I would be using cheapest Mannol 15/40 you can get.
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i have used their ep90 Before because of the price. Intersting you say to use the cheapest oil you can find (which I don’t disagree with) whereas most threads discussing oil try and say the more expensive full synthetic is better.
 
LG199714 said:
I would also check the ACEA spec for when your truck first came out and see the updated or equivalent and base an opinion there.

For example, some oils are designed to work with after-treatment emission systems but some people delete the exhaust so therefore you explore perhaps for a stronger oil
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It’s a fully mechanical 200tdi from the early 90’s. It predated cats and emissions etc. so don’t have that to worry about. I doubt it has changed since release.
 
LG199714 said:
How is it a waste of money 🤪, I just provided a video from valvoline the first oil company ever that proves fully synthetic is better for your truck than conventional having 7 cold rings and synthetic having 1 + far less varnish meaning the cleaning additives are far superior. Also the molecules within the oil are far more uniformed and less likely to breaking down meaning longer intervals if needed but i stick with 5,000km.

"Simply because 200/300tdi don’t need it" - correct me if I am wrong but is that because of cost?
I really like the facts and try my best to do my research, clearly. when you said "dont need it" you need to back that up with something.
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I would agree that a 2/300tdi doesn’t need synthetic just from personal expiriance. I got 380k miles out of my last 200tdi which was still going strong and only removed because I had an engine fire, not because anything was wrong with the engine.
 
dag019 said:
i have used their ep90 Before because of the price. Intersting you say to use the cheapest oil you can find (which I don’t disagree with) whereas most threads discussing oil try and say the more expensive full synthetic is better.
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That is because people get sucked into the brand name crap, and have to justify the silly price to themselves and anyone who will listen, you don't see hgvs running on castrol edge at 50 quid for 5 litres.

Some of the trucks I service take 48 litres at a time, really pizzes me off having to fill them back up!
 
LG199714 said:
Okay okay

what are you claiming with the way I spell? 🤣 get with the times. You’re still using mineral oil, upgrade to full synthetic. I went from “far out” to “lol”
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I suppose I should point out at this time that full syn oil used in motor vehicles is still a mineral base oil with a syn additive package, true syn oil is madly expensive.

Again I have no idea what you believe I am claiming.
 
From my initial post I simply said upgrade to a full synthetic as a full synthetic is a better quality of oil then mineral or semi synthetic and provided proof from a reputable company of this to support my claim. Clearly this is a emotional debate for some to the point that my spelling is being questioned.... In my 65 396 stingray i use Pennzoil fully synthetic. never burned oil, never had rods flying, cranks spinning, wheels flying or whatever that nonsense is 🤪. Removed both valve covers two years ago, they are as clean as stainless steel since its full restoration in 09.
 
dag019 said:
i have used their ep90 Before because of the price. Intersting you say to use the cheapest oil you can find (which I don’t disagree with) whereas most threads discussing oil try and say the more expensive full synthetic is better.
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I perhaps should have worded that better and should have said, use the cheapest oil you can find that meets the required specs, as mentioned by lol boy ACEA codes are all you need to know.

As an example by wifes car needs ACEA 5/30 C3 (C means cat/pdf etc) my D3 needs ACEA 5/30 A5 (which I think is now an old spec) and as I am a lazy shti I use the C3 in the D3, C3 is to good for the car, but I have it so in it goes.

Sad as i may sound I would say have a quick google on acea specs.
 
lynall said:
That is because people get sucked into the brand name crap, and have to justify the silly price to themselves and anyone who will listen, you don't see hgvs running on castrol edge at 50 quid for 5 litres.

Some of the trucks I service take 48 litres at a time, really pizzes me off having to fill them back up!
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"This would be back in the early 90s, back then no normal person said lol, not ever."

What does the last part mean?

and too your last post, whats your issue, calling me "lol boy", I got no problem with you or what you have been sharing. It is a debate stop making it personal and learn to handle rebuttals. just be a man
 
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LG199714 said:
From my initial post I simply said upgrade to a full synthetic as a full synthetic is a better quality of oil then mineral or semi synthetic and provided proof from a reputable company of this to support my claim. Clearly this is a emotional debate for some to the point that my spelling is being questioned.... In my 65 396 stingray i use Pennzoil fully synthetic. never burned oil, never had rods flying, cranks spinning, wheels flying or whatever that nonsense is 🤪. Removed both valve covers two years ago, they are as clean as stainless steel since its full restoration in 09.
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I don't suppose by any chance the reputable company you mention was the same companies oil who you bought?

We call that sales patter in the UK, and is generally to be avoided at all costs, much like starmer/rayner who fall into the same catogory as sales people the world over.
 
LG199714 said:
"This would be back in the early 90s, back then no normal person said lol, not ever."

What does the last part mean?
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Not is the opposite of yes, and ever when used in a sentence might go as follows, LZ is the best forum ever.
Which I reckon bluebeasty would even agree with.
 
I had a look at my owners manual and it talked about draining the oil every so often. I am unbelievably clever and deduced that I could save money by just draining it once and calling it good! Why would I fill it up just to drain it again?! Follow me for more money-saving tips.

On a separate topic, who can help me un-seize my motor?
 
Squonker said:
I had a look at my owners manual and it talked about draining the oil every so often. I am unbelievably clever and deduced that I could save money by just draining it once and calling it good! Why would I fill it up just to drain it again?! Follow me for more money-saving tips.

On a separate topic, who can help me un-seize my motor?
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That will be a whole new thread on freeing up spray, spoiler alert they are all much the same!
 
lynall said:
That will be a whole new thread on freeing up spray, spoiler alert they are all much the same!
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That is my view on oil When it comes to a 200tdi! Although I knew the risks of starting a debate. All I really wanted was the best place to buy at a reasonably price 🙄
 
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