Rear work lights

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Diff light will be switching earth, its only a tiny little bulb anyway, Im not erven convinced its a fused circuit, sounds like reverse switches live then.
See edited post above with wiring diagram confirming reverse is switched live, just checked the other part of the diagram and diff is definitely switched earth.
 
Yes, you want the relay close to the battery and aux fuse box, I would always put them in the battery box, you could put them in the cab fuse box but I would rather run a bus in the battery box or a distribution fuse box with one live feed in, It just keeps it all simple and safe and easy to fault find if something goes wrong.

In that particular circumstance, I agree that it’s the easiest way to wire up the circuit. I don’t think it’s best practice, and I wouldn’t advise anyone to wire up this way.

The way I have my switches wired up are, I have a 2.5mm main power feed from the aux fuse box, in the battery box, protected by a 3A fuse, supplying power to all the switches that require permanent live. These switches then switch their lives down to the aux relay box, also in the battery box. This allows me to add more switches, or up the current of that supply to around 25A, if needed, by swapping the fuse. None of the switched lives are fused, individually, as the main fuse protects these switched lives too. They are all 1.0mm or 1.5mm, depending on what colour they were (wire choice was what I had laid about).

The benefits of wiring the way I have done are all depending on later addition, or modification. If you know for a fact that you won’t ever want to change anything, then my system isn’t really the best/easiest.
 
In that particular circumstance, I agree that it’s the easiest way to wire up the circuit. I don’t think it’s best practice, and I wouldn’t advise anyone to wire up this way.

The way I have my switches wired up are, I have a 2.5mm main power feed from the aux fuse box, in the battery box, protected by a 3A fuse, supplying power to all the switches that require permanent live. These switches then switch their lives down to the aux relay box, also in the battery box. This allows me to add more switches, or up the current of that supply to around 25A, if needed, by swapping the fuse. None of the switched lives are fused, individually, as the main fuse protects these switched lives too. They are all 1.0mm or 1.5mm, depending on what colour they were (wire choice was what I had laid about).

The benefits of wiring the way I have done are all depending on later addition, or modification. If you know for a fact that you won’t ever want to change anything, then my system isn’t really the best/easiest.

What you have there is a system that a lot of people would use, if it were me, running all the trigger switches off one live I would consider using an ignition live from inside the dash, obviously depending on the accessory, the advantages being the accessory cannot be switched on without the key turned in the ignition. But I am sure you know there are many different angles to approach this from, although I believe the reverse lamp is ignition switched because people park on hills with the vehicle left in reverse gear but then again a work lamp, if switched from the rear of the vehicle would be used usually with the keys in your pocket.
 
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