Rear Window Problem - Switch or Relay?

It's a brand new battery replaced this January from Halfords!

I've just tried another calibration method as there seems to be a few floating around.

It's calibrated again, but for how long i don't know?

Disconnect battery - reconnect after 10 mins
Rear window drops
Lock and alarm vehicle with key fob - wait 5 mins
Unlock with key fob
Key in ignition, turn to position 2, dash lights etc
Press rear window 'up' button until window raises fully
(if a buzzer is heard, recalibrate and start again)


I've read similar ones where you start the engine and rev before pressing the 'up' button. Then lift and lower the rear window a few times to calibrate, if the window stays up, it's calibrated?

Having tried and tried again, the issue still exists, the rear window needs calibrating every few days!!

Here's what I've tried already, quotes taken from other sites and other members.

Re: Rear Tailgate dramas after battery change, even after calibration process - HELP

Try it this way:

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Wait 1 minute
3. Connect up battery. The tailgate window will be down, or will go down.
4. Shut all doors.
5. Using the remote on the key-fob lock the doors. The alarm will be set.
6. Wait 1 minute.
7. Using the remote on the key-fob un-lock the doors. The alarm will be off.
8. Put key in ignition and turn to get warning lights on.
9. Press the up button for tail-gate window and keep it pressed until window is completely closed. There should be no 'beep' or 'buzzer'.
10. Hopefully that's it and you can go for a large Gin & Tonic or...
11. The bloody thing went 'beep' - so it's NOT it, and you should go to lie down in a darkened room waiting for someone cleverer than Singvogel to come up with a better way of doing it.

This worked for me after I had started tearing out what hair I have left.


Took the panel off and the cable loom had fallen under the window when trying to open so not achieving full travel. As a result the window would not calibrate. Seems that the window had never worked properly as it goes all the way down now which I had not realised that it was meant to do!

this is the only procedure before dealer:
1. Disarm the anti-theft alarm system.
2. Disconnect the vehicle battery.
3. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Reconnect the vehicle battery.
5. The CCU will now drive the tail door window to the fully lowered position.
6. Turn the ignition switch to the 'ignition' position.
7. Press and hold the tail door window switch in the 'Up' position until the window has reached the fully closed position.
8. The tail door window should now be calibrated. If calibration has failed, a warning buzzer will sound
you can try it this way too:
Ensure the tail door is closed, the vehicle unlocked and the alarm disarmed.

2 On 3 door models, ensure the roof is on (hard back) or lowered and secured (soft back).

3 Disconnect the battery earth lead, observing battery disconnection electrical precautions detailed in the Workshop Manual Service Repairs.

4 Allow at least 10 seconds to elapse before reconnecting the battery earth lead. The tail door glass will fully lower approximately 2 seconds after the battery is reconnected.

5 Start the engine. Ensure that all electrical loads, i.e. lights etc. are switched off. Increase the engine speed to 1500 rev/min. for 10 seconds.

6 After 10 seconds and whilst maintaining the engine speed at 1500 rev/min., carry out the following:

i) Close the tail door window fully to start the calibration procedure.
ii) Fully open the tail door window.
iii) Fully close the tail door window.
iv)If the tail door window remains closed, the calibration procedure is complete.

7 If the calibration procedure is unsuccessful, the CCU will sound a warning for approximately 0.8 second and fully lower the window. Repeat the calibration procedure from step 1.


http://en.allexperts.com/q/Land-Rover-Repair-1470/2010/5/Freelander-tailgate-window-problem.htm

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-rear-window-fault-92859.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/rear-tailgate-dramas-after-battery-change-even-after-calibration-process-help-175099.html

http://www.justanswer.com/car/18719-replaced-battery-land-rover-freelander.html

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f11/my-freelander-possesed-6632/

http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=76213

http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/topic91852-1-1.aspx

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36125

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelander_1/81732-freelander-rear-window.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/rear-window-problem-switch-relay-180192-2.html


If I've missed anything please let me know.

Thanks for reading

I took into account everything I'd done, which I'd shared in the opening thread.

The dash switch is inoperable after 3 - 4 days, unless the battery / rear window is re-calibrated !

I’ve been told the new battery is the correct one.
I've tried a different dash switch.
I've made sure the hard top microswitch is pushed in all the way, with the roof on in place.
I've tried another hard top microswitch.
I've tried x 2 different relays in the rear drivers side quarter behind the moulding above the suspension leg.
I've thought of the CCU....but was told that is programmed correctly.
I've thought of the Window ECU (drivers footwell) but was told that ECU only has '1 channel' - so all windows are operated via this ecu....if one fails they all would?
I've been told the 'rear window regulator' works as the glass is clearing and sealing the recess when the rear door is opened from the outside by hand.
I've been told that 'BOTH x 2) relays in the rear drivers quarter are working.


The only thing I over looked was the 'rear wiper / arm / motor position' - so that was the 1st major check....

The rear wiper fuse was missing from the fusebox, so I replaced it and ran the wiper motor a for 5 minutes or so.

I could hear the rear wiper relay in the fusebox clicking so I knew that was ok.

Having turned the rear wiper system off....

The rear window now opens from the dash switch...Doh !

Problem solved !!

Thanks for all the interesting replies.

Had the similar problem on my 2004 td4 van. Put stuff in, when i tried to re-open at the destination, the handle won't open and the window won't budge the normal 2 inch clearance. When operated via the window dash switch, you can hear the relay clicking but no-go. neither does the key-switch work. I will try recalibration first thing in the morning but i highly doubt it will work. Any suggestions please?

Fixed! Calibrated and back to normal

I appreciate it's been a few years since the initial post, but I recently had the same problem. Rear door wouldn't unlock etc. Thinking about it, the day before I had been reversing having missed a turn, and saw I was heading for a wall and braked hard. I had an empty gas bottle, the sort for a portable header in the rear which hit hard against the door. Could this has caused a problem, I don't know but in any case the rear door wouldn't unlock the next day. When I pressed the handle, nothing. No unlock sound or release sound, no window drop, nothing. I then started looking on the internet for similar problems and found several and started checking what was written on here. I checked the fuse for the rear window which was ok. I disconnected the battery for several minutes and then reconnected it. The back window didn't drop, but now when I pressed the handle the lock was activating so a partial success. I tried to pull the window down so I could get the rear door open, but it wouldn't budge. Then realised from reading this thread, that perhaps I should check my rear wiper....it wasn't working either. Checked the rear wiper fuse, it was ok. Then started up the car and tried the rear window switch......it beeped three times, and when I pressed it again, the rear window dropped. I closed the window again and went to the rear and tried the release handle which activated and the rear window dropped and I could open the door again! Hooray........only problem is, when I though that maybe the gas bottle had pushed something out of alignment, I kicked the handle which broke! DOH, Homer Simpson is alive and living in Spain! Well, my excuse is it is 15 years old, been in Spain since 2006, and the sun destroys everything here and the rubber seal has seen better days so I'll have to order a new handle.

Hope this may help anyone else who has the same problem.