Rear-Wheel over heats...what next?

OK..Long story, but I'll try to keep it short..Im now stuck for Ideas

1) Horrid screech from RNS wheel, which is also too hot to touch....Quick investigaition shows a sticky caliper. Disassemble..grease/copperslip appropriate bit & Re-assemble.
2) Rear wheel still over heats...Splash the cash & order new Calipers/carriers/pads/disks & install. Notice the rear hub has a bit of play, explaining the "wheel bearing" drumming sometimes heard
3) Order & fit rear hub-assy (Timken, not Britpart). drumming noise gone....wheel still overheating.
4) heard its possible that a delaminating flexi-hose MAY cause a calliper not to release, Order & fit a set of Stainless flexi-hoses. During fitment of Flexi-hose, see the the RNS disk (The new one, about 3 weeks old), has obviously been hot as it tarnished colouring...

Whilst the wheel was off, spun the hub by hand & it was free to rotate. Pumped the brakes & its rock-solid. loosen the bleed-nipple to release any pressure......hub still solid.

Take the pads out, manually push back piston (Not excessively hard), replace pads & hub spins freely.

I'm going to contact he supplier of the callipers & ask for a replacement be sent....but it seems a bit of a odd that the "Faulty" one gets replaced by another faulty one, while the off-side has been fine (nothing wrong with the old off-side one, but wanted to replace the whole axel-set).

Anything else I should be looking at?

Standing by to see what comes of this.... have had a similar problem for a couple of weeks now and have just about given up on it for now.

Sounds more like something upstream. Brakes are split on the axle, so one side can be in trouble and not the other.

Peter

some times the hand break cable sticks on and wont let the caliper retract look at the spring fitting on the hand break return remove hand break cable and clean down with some WD40 and refit worth a try

Sounds like you might have a kink or a blockage in a pipe somewhere along the line. Old callipers can stick due to rust and dirt, but not new ones.

LAMPRO said:

some times the hand break cable sticks on and wont let the caliper retract look at the spring fitting on the hand break return remove hand break cable and clean down with some WD40 and refit worth a try

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Not on a D2.

Peter

listerdiesel said:

Not on a D2.

Peter

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I stand corrected cheers mate

blimp said:

Sounds like you might have a kink or a blockage in a pipe somewhere along the line. Old callipers can stick due to rust and dirt, but not new ones.

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Well.....I kinda thought this...but surely, if I loosened off the bleed-nipple to release any pressure, the calliper would/should retract enough allow the hub to spin?

mburton2 said:

Well.....I kinda thought this...but surely, if I loosened off the bleed-nipple to release any pressure, the calliper would/should retract enough allow the hub to spin?

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Not if a slide pin is a bit sticky

mburton2 said:

Well.....I kinda thought this...but surely, if I loosened off the bleed-nipple to release any pressure, the calliper would/should retract enough allow the hub to spin?

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There is no retraction method as far as I'm aware so the pads will drag when the brake is released, they are pushed back a bit when the wheel rotates though.
I'd flush the system and bleed for starters if the fluid has not been replaced recently.

might be worth removing the pipe and blowing compressed air in the calliper to push piston out to eliminate any other components , just make sure you have the breaks pads or G clamp or something in there to stop the piston coming out completely , using air it will be sudden

Well, just ordered a set of callipers/disks etc for the front, when I get round to fitting those (just so I know everything is shiney & new ), I will do a complete fluid change.