TheWoodsmane
Member
- Posts
- 72
- Location
- Guildford, England.
Hi everyone.
I thought I would take a moment to give back as I've received some sage advice recently on dealing with a TC issue. This is aimed at complete amateurs (of which I am certainly one) that don't really have any experience of spannering, so don't judge this too harshly, please.
I hadn't planned on writing this, otherwise I would have taken pictures to help. I'll try and remember to do that next time...as there is plenty to do. I've basically written this as it happened to me. Don't know if this will help or people would prefer just a simple set of steps. But, it was a learning experience for me and I thought I'd share that. I've included the tools list that I discovered I needed at the bottom and my estimate of how long it took me.
I'm not a seasoned veteran of Land Rovers or mechanically adept and frankly some of the jobs that need doing to my truck are quite thoroughly daunting - even though it's quite clear many of you fine people see these as "easy"...But, for me, buying my 1st Land Rover has been 35 years in the making and I am determined to get to know it.
Last week (1st week of ownership), I was out walking the dog and used the rear step whilst I removed my boots. How convenient, I thought. So, I did it the next time I went out. Obviously chanced my luck there as the step was a little stiff this time, so I put a bit of pressure on it, there was a loud crack and the step dropped to full extension. Stepping back to survey my handy work, I saw that the flange that secures the damper had basically snapped off, with the bottom of the damper snapped off as well...hmm. Looks like the chassis end is more rust than anything else.
I was contemplating a repair job with a new damper and getting someone to clean it up and try to weld it and powder coat. But, it looked too far gone. A little searching revealed the cost of a new one and I don't think I need it that much! However, whilst searching on here, someone (sorry, I can not find the post) had suggested to just remove it as it reduces the departure angle, is more to rust, etc. Who ever it was, brilliant. I don't really have a need for it and it is clearly a "nice to have" for me, I just defaulted to "it's broken, so repair or replace it".
So, I consulted the workshop manual and it's only 2 bolts that hold it to the near side chassis arm, just ahead of the tow bar mounting point. As this didn't involve the use of anything more sophisticated than a socket set and a mat to put under the truck to keep my suit from getting scruffy, I thought I would attempt it. If I can do this, literally anyone can do it. It's not a safety critical component, so if I screw it up (within limits), I can always get help.
First, you have to appreciate that the bolts have more than likely been in there since the truck was made, 15 years ago. I am sure this will be true of many other Disco 2 trucks both older and newer than mine. So, as I peered at the bolts (which are on the nearside with the nuts welded to the bracket on the off-side), I could see these were nicely domed with mud, crud and rust. Sadly, no wire brush in my meagre tool box (one now on order from ScrewFix). So, with some judicious poking, prodding and tapping, the crud flaked off to reveal a very rusted 3/8" bolt head.
Using a relatively small ratchet (must purchase a bigger one), I tackled the lower and more accessible bolt first. There's a reasonable amount of room in there, so no scuffed knuckles. I pulled tentatively with increasing force, expecting the socket to spin off and leave a nicely rounded head or worse, the head to sheer off with rust. But, to my continued amazement, it started to move. It got a lot harder as the end of the bolt (which was also rusted to the point that it no longer appeared to have a thread). But, after about 1cm of thread, it came free and I could pull it out.
I moved to the top bolt, which is deeper into the chassis, up behind the damper mount. The damper wouldn't budge - so I had to force it and in the end it just snapped off at the top mount. As the whole assembly was being junked, I didn't really care. But, if you are going to try and salvage it or just replace the damper, there are bolts for the damper too. Removing the damper gave me a clear view of the bolt head and some precious working room as well.
Oddly, even though this bolt is further up in the chassis, it was more covered in crud and more corroded, go figure. Anyway, getting the crud off took a lot more effort and the wire brush is really a must have here in my opinion - so if you're contemplating this, get a wire brush now if you don't have one. That said, if someone has a better alternative to a wire brush, please add your advice (remember, I am an amateur).
The head wouldn't come as clean (it's a relative term here) as the bottom bolt and fitting the socket was a challenge - it didn't really want to sit on properly. The first few attempts to turn the bolt resulted in the socket slipping off and I could see the corners starting to round just a little. I put the socket on then tapped it to seat it more securely and this seemed to work when combined with a little more lateral force to hold it on as I pulled. However, I could tell that the head was not going to budge without a lot more force and with such a load on the head, I was worried that it would either sheer off or the socket would slip off and I mangle my hand on some rusty under carriage! Not the way to start your morning.
I got busy with the WD40 on the nut end and left it for 5 mins to see if it would penetrate the nut. Again, a wire brush here would have been welcome. But, on the third attempt as above, the head turned and small amount and with a little more force, it started turning more. This bolt was a lot more corroded and so the last few mm of thread into the nut was really tight. But, it came out.
The centre of both bolts (the part that was inside the chassis arm) were relatively clean and corrosion free, which is more than I can say for the chassis arm itself, which is going to need some attention soon.
With a little force the step mounting started to move, having basically rusted to the chassis. However, the top nut on the mounting was snagging on the towing hit support the comes down from the chassis behind the step mount to the tow hitch mounting plate. There just isn't enough room to clear the support. I thought I was going to have to remove the towing hitch support - at which point I was serious considering putting one bolt back in and getting some help.
However, I persevered and with some cajoling and wiggling, the bolt cleared the support and the whole step assembly dropped free...and went straight in the bin.
So, for those amateurs who have a Discovery 2, with a duff rear step, and wonder whether they can tackle removing it (and potentially refitting a new or repaired one), I say on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest), that this is probably 1. It's easier than changing a wheel I think.
My suggested tools are:
I thought I would take a moment to give back as I've received some sage advice recently on dealing with a TC issue. This is aimed at complete amateurs (of which I am certainly one) that don't really have any experience of spannering, so don't judge this too harshly, please.
I hadn't planned on writing this, otherwise I would have taken pictures to help. I'll try and remember to do that next time...as there is plenty to do. I've basically written this as it happened to me. Don't know if this will help or people would prefer just a simple set of steps. But, it was a learning experience for me and I thought I'd share that. I've included the tools list that I discovered I needed at the bottom and my estimate of how long it took me.
I'm not a seasoned veteran of Land Rovers or mechanically adept and frankly some of the jobs that need doing to my truck are quite thoroughly daunting - even though it's quite clear many of you fine people see these as "easy"...But, for me, buying my 1st Land Rover has been 35 years in the making and I am determined to get to know it.
Last week (1st week of ownership), I was out walking the dog and used the rear step whilst I removed my boots. How convenient, I thought. So, I did it the next time I went out. Obviously chanced my luck there as the step was a little stiff this time, so I put a bit of pressure on it, there was a loud crack and the step dropped to full extension. Stepping back to survey my handy work, I saw that the flange that secures the damper had basically snapped off, with the bottom of the damper snapped off as well...hmm. Looks like the chassis end is more rust than anything else.
I was contemplating a repair job with a new damper and getting someone to clean it up and try to weld it and powder coat. But, it looked too far gone. A little searching revealed the cost of a new one and I don't think I need it that much! However, whilst searching on here, someone (sorry, I can not find the post) had suggested to just remove it as it reduces the departure angle, is more to rust, etc. Who ever it was, brilliant. I don't really have a need for it and it is clearly a "nice to have" for me, I just defaulted to "it's broken, so repair or replace it".
So, I consulted the workshop manual and it's only 2 bolts that hold it to the near side chassis arm, just ahead of the tow bar mounting point. As this didn't involve the use of anything more sophisticated than a socket set and a mat to put under the truck to keep my suit from getting scruffy, I thought I would attempt it. If I can do this, literally anyone can do it. It's not a safety critical component, so if I screw it up (within limits), I can always get help.
First, you have to appreciate that the bolts have more than likely been in there since the truck was made, 15 years ago. I am sure this will be true of many other Disco 2 trucks both older and newer than mine. So, as I peered at the bolts (which are on the nearside with the nuts welded to the bracket on the off-side), I could see these were nicely domed with mud, crud and rust. Sadly, no wire brush in my meagre tool box (one now on order from ScrewFix). So, with some judicious poking, prodding and tapping, the crud flaked off to reveal a very rusted 3/8" bolt head.
Using a relatively small ratchet (must purchase a bigger one), I tackled the lower and more accessible bolt first. There's a reasonable amount of room in there, so no scuffed knuckles. I pulled tentatively with increasing force, expecting the socket to spin off and leave a nicely rounded head or worse, the head to sheer off with rust. But, to my continued amazement, it started to move. It got a lot harder as the end of the bolt (which was also rusted to the point that it no longer appeared to have a thread). But, after about 1cm of thread, it came free and I could pull it out.
I moved to the top bolt, which is deeper into the chassis, up behind the damper mount. The damper wouldn't budge - so I had to force it and in the end it just snapped off at the top mount. As the whole assembly was being junked, I didn't really care. But, if you are going to try and salvage it or just replace the damper, there are bolts for the damper too. Removing the damper gave me a clear view of the bolt head and some precious working room as well.
Oddly, even though this bolt is further up in the chassis, it was more covered in crud and more corroded, go figure. Anyway, getting the crud off took a lot more effort and the wire brush is really a must have here in my opinion - so if you're contemplating this, get a wire brush now if you don't have one. That said, if someone has a better alternative to a wire brush, please add your advice (remember, I am an amateur).
The head wouldn't come as clean (it's a relative term here) as the bottom bolt and fitting the socket was a challenge - it didn't really want to sit on properly. The first few attempts to turn the bolt resulted in the socket slipping off and I could see the corners starting to round just a little. I put the socket on then tapped it to seat it more securely and this seemed to work when combined with a little more lateral force to hold it on as I pulled. However, I could tell that the head was not going to budge without a lot more force and with such a load on the head, I was worried that it would either sheer off or the socket would slip off and I mangle my hand on some rusty under carriage! Not the way to start your morning.
I got busy with the WD40 on the nut end and left it for 5 mins to see if it would penetrate the nut. Again, a wire brush here would have been welcome. But, on the third attempt as above, the head turned and small amount and with a little more force, it started turning more. This bolt was a lot more corroded and so the last few mm of thread into the nut was really tight. But, it came out.
The centre of both bolts (the part that was inside the chassis arm) were relatively clean and corrosion free, which is more than I can say for the chassis arm itself, which is going to need some attention soon.
With a little force the step mounting started to move, having basically rusted to the chassis. However, the top nut on the mounting was snagging on the towing hit support the comes down from the chassis behind the step mount to the tow hitch mounting plate. There just isn't enough room to clear the support. I thought I was going to have to remove the towing hitch support - at which point I was serious considering putting one bolt back in and getting some help.
However, I persevered and with some cajoling and wiggling, the bolt cleared the support and the whole step assembly dropped free...and went straight in the bin.
So, for those amateurs who have a Discovery 2, with a duff rear step, and wonder whether they can tackle removing it (and potentially refitting a new or repaired one), I say on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being the easiest), that this is probably 1. It's easier than changing a wheel I think.
My suggested tools are:
- Wire brush to remove crud and rust from the bolts and nuts.
- Can of WD40 to help free up the threads.
- 3/8" socket and large ratchet to give more leverage. I don't think an extension is a good call as the ratchet head is also small and it could damage the internals under heavy load. Just saying.
