rear passenger not opening after new actuator fitted

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Thank you PP I will try your suggestion and report back.........Thank you for looking for me for the part number.

I know something is wrong with the part, just was not sure what. On the box it has FQM100700 but the contents is not that.

Central locking works fine with the new actuator and internal pull handle works....just door handle is not working.

Maybe it was a simple mistake of wrong part in a box.?
The parts do look similar, but different enough not to work.
I have spent about 25 hours on this and having a break today and will have a go tomorrow.

Can I ask you...the wire link on your car is it twisted?.I ask this as mine is and assume it needs to be to connect to the handle from the actuator.
I have seen picture on the web of the part flat and others with a "dog leg" twist in it.....just grabbing at straws a bit.

Thank you again for your help.
 
westone said:
Thank you PP I will try your suggestion and report back.........Thank you for looking for me for the part number.

I know something is wrong with the part, just was not sure what. On the box it has FQM100700 but the contents is not that.

Central locking works fine with the new actuator and internal pull handle works....just door handle is not working.

Maybe it was a simple mistake of wrong part in a box.?
The parts do look similar, but different enough not to work.
I have spent about 25 hours on this and having a break today and will have a go tomorrow.

Can I ask you...the wire link on your car is it twisted?.I ask this as mine is and assume it needs to be to connect to the handle from the actuator.
I have seen picture on the web of the part flat and others with a "dog leg" twist in it.....just grabbing at straws a bit.

Thank you again for your help.
Click to expand...
I know how it can be, you get very downhearted spending lots of time and money and not really getting anywhere. I have been battling with some paperwork for my late father's estate for the last few weeks and nearly had a bonfire with it this morning! I would gladly have swapped our problems!

Anyway, I don't remember clearly the rod link, but I don't remember a dog leg or twist in it. I remember it pretty much as item 9 in: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L5.L5C.L5C01.L5C01180/brand/land-rover/ but my memory is not perfect!

Hope this helps!

PP
 
Thank you for that link,I am a bit suspicious ,but it works perfectly on the old unit .So probably I am just trying to find something wrong.
A replacement unit should solve it I think. I am 98% sure the one I have is wrong withe part number and evidence you found...I will let you know when my new unit arrives.

Sorry to hear about your battle with your late fathers paperwork.I had to do this some years ago when my mum passed away,I was executor and it was a big load of stuff to do.
 
westone said:
Thank you for that link,I am a bit suspicious ,but it works perfectly on the old unit .So probably I am just trying to find something wrong.
A replacement unit should solve it I think. I am 98% sure the one I have is wrong withe part number and evidence you found...I will let you know when my new unit arrives.

Sorry to hear about your battle with your late fathers paperwork.I had to do this some years ago when my mum passed away,I was executor and it was a big load of stuff to do.
Click to expand...
I'm a member of the parent's executor group too. In my case he was a retired accountant so lots was easy as he was organised, but what was sometimes upsetting was the things I found hidden in his paperwork, letters from doctors etc. And the fact he had been seeing my ex-wife quite regularly right up until he died, so over 15 years this happened behind my back and I worked with her all this time. Not so much the seeing her but the fact he never thought he could tell me.
So best of luck with the paperwork, PP, mostly just a trudge I found.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I'm a member of the parent's executor group too. In my case he was a retired accountant so lots was easy as he was organised, but what was sometimes upsetting was the things I found hidden in his paperwork, letters from doctors etc. And the fact he had been seeing my ex-wife quite regularly right up until he died, so over 15 years this happened behind my back and I worked with her all this time. Not so much the seeing her but the fact he never thought he could tell me.
So best of luck with the paperwork, PP, mostly just a trudge I found.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mr Stan! My father died 3 years ago, well organised and no nasty surprises. We have completed his estate all but he had £50 of Lloyds shares. We have been trying to transfer these to charity (least paperwork, and he would have approved!), but for 3 years we have gone round in circles, different departments, different forms, different information. The latest pack took us back to square one.:mad::mad: We just want to give £50 to charity...

Sorry folks, rant over, now about this lock.:) Have a good day.
 
PP..... I thought I would send you a picture of a worm extractor in case you want remove one and re use a motor....Your method is good.I have this from model engineering and they cost about £8.........I expect clever folk on here could make one up.

Perhaps if somebody was going to change them all on a Disco would be handy.

They do work well in different sizes.

D0F541FF-6AF3-49C8-BB2B-0F956616FCC5.jpeg
 
PopPops said:
Thanks Mr Stan! My father died 3 years ago, well organised and no nasty surprises. We have completed his estate all but he had £50 of Lloyds shares. We have been trying to transfer these to charity (least paperwork, and he would have approved!), but for 3 years we have gone round in circles, different departments, different forms, different information. The latest pack took us back to square one.:mad::mad: We just want to give £50 to charity...

Sorry folks, rant over, now about this lock.:) Have a good day.
Click to expand...
Without trying to get off topic but just for you, why not simply, as executor, sell the shares then write a cheque from the executor's account to the charity? Or is that too easy, i.e. impossible for some reason that I cannot see?
Best of luck!
 
westone said:
PP..... I thought I would send you a picture of a worm extractor in case you want remove one and re use a motor....Your method is good.I have this from model engineering and they cost about £8.........I expect clever folk on here could make one up.

Perhaps if somebody was going to change them all on a Disco would be handy.

They do work well in different sizes.

View attachment 242355
Click to expand...
Thank you, that would have been really useful, I'll try and track one down, or even make something similar that would do the job.

PP
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Without trying to get off topic but just for you, why not simply, as executor, sell the shares then write a cheque from the executor's account to the charity? Or is that too easy, i.e. impossible for some reason that I cannot see?
Best of luck!
Click to expand...
Thank you, the commission to sell them is £20 more than they are worth, and there is even more paperwork, the donation to charity should have been the most straightforward, but thanks!
 
PopPops said:
Thank you, the commission to sell them is £20 more than they are worth, and there is even more paperwork, the donation to charity should have been the most straightforward, but thanks!
Click to expand...
TBH, i have left my Dad's executor's account open ever since he died and that was in 1998! Ought to get it closed I suppose.:rolleyes:
But I see your problem now.
Best prolly to just leave the shares where they are and send a cheque off to the charity, you never know maybe one day they'll be worth more than the commission.
Just had a quick look at this.
https://www.ig.com/uk/investments/share-dealing
£20 more than they are worth seems a bit rich.:( and they do let you deal in non-US shares, you'll notice.
Anyway, best of luck with it all.
 
Bit of an update. Replacement part arrived about 5 mins ago.I am disappointed as it's the same part as last time.I thought this might happen.
Same linkage all sloppy as well.

So I will fit tomorrow and see......But do not think it will work.........As not a lot is different.I hope i am wrong...I will let you know.

Thing is if it does not work unsure what to do next...its of no use tc me like this and JLR will probably say a garage will be able to do it.

Fingers crossed
 
westone said:
Bit of an update. Replacement part arrived about 5 mins ago.I am disappointed as it's the same part as last time.I thought this might happen.
Same linkage all sloppy as well.

So I will fit tomorrow and see......But do not think it will work.........As not a lot is different.I hope i am wrong...I will let you know.

Thing is if it does not work unsure what to do next...its of no use tc me like this and JLR will probably say a garage will be able to do it.

Fingers crossed
Click to expand...
Definitely got everything crossed for you!

Does the Land Rover part number appear anywhere on the new part? I'm sure I saw it on mine, FQM..., but stupidly didn't take a photo of it.

Good luck.

PP
 
The part number FQM70010 is on the rim of the latch. But the Freelander/Mini is in bold in the middle.

I spoke to a LR dealer about this ,your earlier posting was spot. on .he said they look the same,but are not the same.

The thing is the old one works with the linkage and current set up,Without any mods, so the new one should just go straight in.

I am not optimistic.
 
westone said:
The part number FQM70010 is on the rim of the latch. But the Freelander/Mini is in bold in the middle.

I spoke to a LR dealer about this ,your earlier posting was spot. on .he said they look the same,but are not the same.

The thing is the old one works with the linkage and current set up,Without any mods, so the new one should just go straight in.

I am not optimistic.
Click to expand...
I'm staying optimistic for you. I've even got wifey stirring her cauldron to put a curse on JLR if it doesn't work;);)

PP
 
Well some success after many hours in the heat I got it working..but the handle button was proud of the rest of the handle.I did this by tightening the linkage up.If you fit it as supplied it does not work still...
So going to try filing down the linkage to tighten it at a mid point.

Its real bad as the original is a fixed point no slack or any of this

I will update later if i survive the heat!
 
Last edited:
Well its done!!...finally my method worked.The handle is flush and door opens with handle, blipper and pull handle.
I have left the door card off as plan to fix the rusty quarter light channel.Plus I want be sure the adjustment I made holds.as it should.

I checked the new latch first as suggested by PP with a "tommy bar" which was nearly same size as the latch pin on the rear slam shut.

It worked and I also tried it without the handle pulling the mechanism through the gap left by removing the handle.
The first one JLR supplied was definitely faulty.,it would not do all of this.

If your doing this job put a bit of pvc tape round the door handle end of the connecting link wire that connects latch and handle. other side of the locating hole, by doing this it cannot fall out.
This will keep it in place and stop it falling out.Mine fell out and got trapped in the wheel arch seam.Took ages to get out.



If i have to do this again I will buy from a scrapyard ,I would not buy new and go through this again.Easier to take the window out and replace if needed.You can buy 5 from a scrapyard ~ for the cost of one from JLR and avoid a lot of hassle and bruised hands.

The problem is the pivot pin is not fixed, see pictures below.You need to get the pin in the right position to work.I could only do it by trial and error.
To much handle is partly engaged and sticks out.Too little and the mechanism does not move enough to take the door from the latch pin.
I used long nose pliers for this as the pin head is up against the moulding nearly.Just thread sticks out.

You can see in my pictures below.the one with the half moon showing on the pivot pin is new and caused all the hassle, the other is the original Bosch which is made to fit from the box.
F9123365-EEEB-4DB7-9565-68DD8CAE83AF.jpeg

Above is an original..fixed pin.

below you can see the half moon sticking out at the back of the pin...perhaps its used on different models and needs adjustment for this reason.


2922D7A6-D7B1-49D6-8369-1B50597752E0.jpeg
thank you all for your support...next job now
 
westone said:
Well its done!!...finally my method worked.The handle is flush and door opens with handle, blipper and pull handle.
I have left the door card off as plan to fix the rusty quarter light channel.Plus I want be sure the adjustment I made holds.as it should.

I checked the new latch first as suggested by PP with a "tommy bar" which was nearly same size as the latch pin on the rear slam shut.

It worked and I also tried it without the handle pulling the mechanism through the gap left by removing the handle.
The first one JLR supplied was definitely faulty.,it would not do all of this.

If your doing this job put a bit of pvc tape round the door handle end of the connecting link wire that connects latch and handle. other side of the locating hole, by doing this it cannot fall out.
This will keep it in place and stop it falling out.Mine fell out and got trapped in the wheel arch seam.Took ages to get out.



If i have to do this again I will buy from a scrapyard ,I would not buy new and go through this again.Easier to take the window out and replace if needed.You can buy 5 from a scrapyard ~ for the cost of one from JLR and avoid a lot of hassle and bruised hands.

The problem is the pivot pin is not fixed, see pictures below.You need to get the pin in the right position to work.I could only do it by trial and error.
To much handle is partly engaged and sticks out.Too little and the mechanism does not move enough to take the door from the latch pin.
I used long nose pliers for this as the pin head is up against the moulding nearly.Just thread sticks out.

You can see in my pictures below.the one with the half moon showing on the pivot pin is new and caused all the hassle, the other is the original Bosch which is made to fit from the box.
View attachment 242954
Above is an original..fixed pin.

below you can see the half moon sticking out at the back of the pin...perhaps its used on different models and needs adjustment for this reason.


View attachment 242956 thank you all for your support...next job now
Click to expand...
That's brilliant! Really pleased you have a 5 door Disco again. I know what you mean about the connecting link falling out, I had this many times, luckily never trapped anywhere, but the PVC tape is a good tip!

PP
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Pillar
Disco 3 (LR3) Discovery 3 / 4 Rear Door Actuator Replacement [When door won't open].
Replies
2
Views
755
Pillar
Pillar
B
Disco 4 (LR4) Door actuator issue
Replies
2
Views
601
benh999
B
Landylady666
Front passenger door on Disco 4 not unlocking with key fob
2
Replies
33
Views
1K
gstuart
gstuart
M
Rear Tailgate on landrover disc 3 2008 TDV6 will not open
Replies
2
Views
292
Moggytom
M
HillbillyDave
Central locking help
Replies
1
Views
229
Alteredtech
Alteredtech
Back
Top