Rear indicator corrosion

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Philcard

Member
Posts
41
Location
Isle of Wight
Hi,

Have done a search on this and think I have a solution, but jus need to check - so any advice welcomed.

I am having an issue with my off-side rear indicator. This basically consists of a bulb holder which fits into the coloured cover, into which fits a plug which comes out out of the wiring loom.

I am getting corrosion on the pin which lead into the central pin of the bulb (which on my version is steel - or at least steel coloured - whereas the pin that connects to the outer housing is brass - or brassy in colour). This causes a bad connection which results in the light not working (symptom, relay going like crazy but bulb infact).

The first time this happened I put it down to a worn bulb holder and replaced the whole indicator unit. However, it has now reoccurred after five weeks - which is a poor life expectancy for an indicator.

My search indicated that it was probably simply corrosion due to water flying up into the bulb holder from the wheel. My search also indicated there were 'sealed' units you could buy - someone suggested Paddocks, but I cannot see anything that identifies itself as such.

What I have found on the Paddocks site is LED replacements at about £11 each - and, after asking a questions (and getting a very quick reply) they have directed me to replacement plugs to fit the bulb holder (as this is also showing signs if corrosion and may be making the problem worse).

I therefore intend to:

1. But two new indicators and relevant plugs.
2. Fit them.
3. Seal the plug connections with self-amalgamating tape.

Is your collective wisdom supportive of the notion that this will solve the problem? The only reason I ask is that I have a sneaking worry that it may be something to do with too much power going to the central pin - and so what I am seeing is not corrosion but burn-out. However, common sense tells me this would be unlikely to only affect one side?

Thanks.
 
You're quite right, the quality is terrible (and nothing to do with too much current).

Five weeks is worse than any of mine have been though. Worth taking it back?

I have no idea who made the ones I've bought - they don't ever seem to come in a box or bag whoever I buy them from. If you can find LR versions it might be worthwhile?

When you fit the new one slather it with Vaseline all around the contacts and the connections under the boot on the back. Seal the cover to the rubber with it too.
 
You're quite right, the quality is terrible (and nothing to do with too much current).

Five weeks is worse than any of mine have been though. Worth taking it back?

I have no idea who made the ones I've bought - they don't ever seem to come in a box or bag whoever I buy them from. If you can find LR versions it might be worthwhile?

When you fit the new one slather it with Vaseline all around the contacts and the connections under the boot on the back. Seal the cover to the rubber with it too.

+1

this should make it last long enough for the plastic to melt
 
There should be a plastic splash guard under the tub which protects the light connectors from water / mud being thrown by the tyres.
 
+1

this should make it last long enough for the plastic to melt

I had one that had been made so badly that the bulb fell out every few weeks, which I got fed up with. Since I was replacing the holders before the bulbs ever blew I thought I'd glue the bulb in. Worked a treat.

For a couple of weeks. Brake lights do get quite hot in traffic. Which isn't what you want with hot melt glue. ####.
 
+1

this should make it last long enough for the plastic to melt

I had one that had been made so badly that the bulb fell out every few weeks, which I got fed up with. Since I was replacing the holders before the bulbs ever blew I thought I'd glue the bulb in. Worked a treat.

For a couple of weeks. Brake lights do get quite hot in traffic. Which isn't what you want with hot melt glue. ####.
 
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