Rear grab handles.

Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a half this
afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to the rear
crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who is very well
advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know fingers could bend in
these directions.

Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5 minutes if
only we'd undone bolt X.

And do you know how long it takes to scrub Waxoyl off? Probably would have
been a lot less if we could have found the Swarfega.

Such is life. Landy (original name, eh?) now looks great though. Somewhere
to tie the dog at last. (He will have the keys attached to his collar so we
don't forget and drive off with him still attached. Mind you, I don't think
we *could* drive off with him still attached.)

jermec
--
'It's not the despair, I can cope with the despair. It's the hope I can't
stand.'

"jermec" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a
> half this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to
> the rear crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who
> is very well advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know
> fingers could bend in these directions.
>
> Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5
> minutes if only we'd undone bolt X.

Oh, how I do love to be a know-it-all!!<vbg>

I solved this one by taking a length of wire (about 15 inches) and making a
tight loop on the end. Shove the nut into the loop so it is held by
friction. You could probably add a drop of super glue or wrap the wire
around a couple of turns but I didn't find that necessary. The wire I used
is about 1mm diameter.

Insert wire and nut into the end of the cross member. (OK, so it falls off.
You need patience!<g>). Carefully locate the nut to the hole from the
outside (it can help to have someone poke a nail or wire through the hole
about 1/4 inch). Now, trying not to move the nut and insert the bolt.

Very gently, turn the bolt to mate with a thread. Now attempt to tighten.
At this point, the nut may become detached from the wire, but if you gently
pull the bolt it will draw the nut up to the inside of the cross member.
Now tip the bolt to one side so one of the flats of the nut engages with
the flat inside surface of the cross member and carefully tighten. You will
need to pull on the bolt as you tighten, but it can be done provided nut
and bolt are an easy fit. You will find you can torque down to a reasonable
force but if you try to go over the top, the nut will probably spin. I
found I could tighten it sufficiently using this method.

One important point. Make sure the nut and bolt easily screw together
before you start. It can be done and it is actually a lot easier than my
description reads. Once I had done one, I found the rest a dawdle. No doubt
the device for holding the nut could be improved upon (glue?), but the
above worked for me.

Derry

Derry Argue wrote:
> "jermec" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a
>>half this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to
>>the rear crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who
>>is very well advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know
>>fingers could bend in these directions.
>>
>>Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5
>>minutes if only we'd undone bolt X.
>
>
> Oh, how I do love to be a know-it-all!!<vbg>
>
> I solved this one by taking a length of wire (about 15 inches) and making a
> tight loop on the end. Shove the nut into the loop so it is held by
> friction. You could probably add a drop of super glue or wrap the wire
> around a couple of turns but I didn't find that necessary. The wire I used
> is about 1mm diameter.
>
> Insert wire and nut into the end of the cross member. (OK, so it falls off.
> You need patience!<g>). Carefully locate the nut to the hole from the
> outside (it can help to have someone poke a nail or wire through the hole
> about 1/4 inch). Now, trying not to move the nut and insert the bolt.
>
> Very gently, turn the bolt to mate with a thread. Now attempt to tighten.
> At this point, the nut may become detached from the wire, but if you gently
> pull the bolt it will draw the nut up to the inside of the cross member.
> Now tip the bolt to one side so one of the flats of the nut engages with
> the flat inside surface of the cross member and carefully tighten. You will
> need to pull on the bolt as you tighten, but it can be done provided nut
> and bolt are an easy fit. You will find you can torque down to a reasonable
> force but if you try to go over the top, the nut will probably spin. I
> found I could tighten it sufficiently using this method.
>
> One important point. Make sure the nut and bolt easily screw together
> before you start. It can be done and it is actually a lot easier than my
> description reads. Once I had done one, I found the rest a dawdle. No doubt
> the device for holding the nut could be improved upon (glue?), but the
> above worked for me.
>
> Derry
Yep been there, as above but when making the loop add bar across the
back, kinda like a basket. In other words create the loop and then bend
the wire back around the rear of the loop, this way the nut will sit in
there better and when you engage the bolt you wont push the nut out the
back.
Another way is to use a bit of mild steel flat bar cut to lenghth, drill
and file a hole the diameter and dementions of the nut, just like a long
spanner, don't need to have all the flats, 2 will do.
If neither of these is your cup o tea, there's always the gas axe and
mig....ahem
Cheers
S

jermec wrote:

> Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a half
> this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to the rear
> crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who is very well
> advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know fingers could bend in
> these directions.
>
> Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5 minutes
> if only we'd undone bolt X.
>
> And do you know how long it takes to scrub Waxoyl off? Probably would have
> been a lot less if we could have found the Swarfega.
>
> Such is life. Landy (original name, eh?) now looks great though. Somewhere
> to tie the dog at last. (He will have the keys attached to his collar so
> we don't forget and drive off with him still attached. Mind you, I don't
> think we *could* drive off with him still attached.)
>
> jermec

I think the nuts are easier to get at if you take the body off first.
JD

X-No-Archive: Yes
"JD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I think the nuts are easier to get at if you take the body off first.

sounds as though there are people who would go that far )

I just had 3 of 4 off, the other loosened, to fit the spare wheel carrier,
put them back with nobbut an open-ended spanner, 2 fingers, a ratchet,
that's it! No fuss )

"Derry Argue" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "jermec" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a
>> half this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to
>> the rear crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who
>> is very well advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know
>> fingers could bend in these directions.
>>
>> Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5
>> minutes if only we'd undone bolt X.
>
> Oh, how I do love to be a know-it-all!!<vbg>
>
> I solved this one by taking a length of wire (about 15 inches) and making
> a
> tight loop on the end. Shove the nut into the loop so it is held by
> friction. You could probably add a drop of super glue or wrap the wire
> around a couple of turns but I didn't find that necessary. The wire I used
> is about 1mm diameter.
>
> Insert wire and nut into the end of the cross member. (OK, so it falls
> off.
> You need patience!<g>). Carefully locate the nut to the hole from the
> outside (it can help to have someone poke a nail or wire through the hole
> about 1/4 inch). Now, trying not to move the nut and insert the bolt.
>
> Very gently, turn the bolt to mate with a thread. Now attempt to tighten.
> At this point, the nut may become detached from the wire, but if you
> gently
> pull the bolt it will draw the nut up to the inside of the cross member.
> Now tip the bolt to one side so one of the flats of the nut engages with
> the flat inside surface of the cross member and carefully tighten. You
> will
> need to pull on the bolt as you tighten, but it can be done provided nut
> and bolt are an easy fit. You will find you can torque down to a
> reasonable
> force but if you try to go over the top, the nut will probably spin. I
> found I could tighten it sufficiently using this method.


We worked a very Heath-Robinson variation on this: superglued the nut to the
washer and fed them with twisted fingers to marry up with the hole in the
cross-member. Poked a small screwdriver through & located the nut on that.
Then arsed about getting the bolt to engage. Wriggled a small spanner
through for two out of the four nuts, and a socket on a bendy arm for the
other two. Tightened bolts with Allen key. Only one problem: we've lost our
spare profanities and we nearly ran out.
Someone was right, though - it might have been easier to take the body off
first.

jermec
--
'It's not the despair, I can cope with the despair. It's the hope I can't
stand.'

"Derry Argue" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"jermec" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a
> half this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to
> the rear crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who
> is very well advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know
> fingers could bend in these directions.
>
> Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5
> minutes if only we'd undone bolt X.

Oh, how I do love to be a know-it-all!!<vbg>

I solved this one by taking a length of wire (about 15 inches) and making a
tight loop on the end. Shove the nut into the loop so it is held by
friction. You could probably add a drop of super glue or wrap the wire
around a couple of turns but I didn't find that necessary. The wire I used
is about 1mm diameter.

Insert wire and nut into the end of the cross member. (OK, so it falls off.
You need patience!<g>). Carefully locate the nut to the hole from the
outside (it can help to have someone poke a nail or wire through the hole
about 1/4 inch). Now, trying not to move the nut and insert the bolt.

Very gently, turn the bolt to mate with a thread. Now attempt to tighten.
At this point, the nut may become detached from the wire, but if you gently
pull the bolt it will draw the nut up to the inside of the cross member.
Now tip the bolt to one side so one of the flats of the nut engages with
the flat inside surface of the cross member and carefully tighten. You will
need to pull on the bolt as you tighten, but it can be done provided nut
and bolt are an easy fit. You will find you can torque down to a reasonable
force but if you try to go over the top, the nut will probably spin. I
found I could tighten it sufficiently using this method.

One important point. Make sure the nut and bolt easily screw together
before you start. It can be done and it is actually a lot easier than my
description reads. Once I had done one, I found the rest a dawdle. No doubt
the device for holding the nut could be improved upon (glue?), but the
above worked for me.

Derry

Or, use a 30mm or so hole saw to make a spanner size hole underneath. You
can then touch the bolt, put on nuts, hold it with a spanner ... no longer
any hassles at all.

Karen

Karen Gallagher wrote:
> "Derry Argue" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> "jermec" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a
>>half this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to
>>the rear crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who
>>is very well advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know
>>fingers could bend in these directions.
>>
>>Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5
>>minutes if only we'd undone bolt X.
>
>
> Oh, how I do love to be a know-it-all!!<vbg>
>
> I solved this one by taking a length of wire (about 15 inches) and making a
> tight loop on the end. Shove the nut into the loop so it is held by
> friction. You could probably add a drop of super glue or wrap the wire
> around a couple of turns but I didn't find that necessary. The wire I used
> is about 1mm diameter.
>
> Insert wire and nut into the end of the cross member. (OK, so it falls off.
> You need patience!<g>). Carefully locate the nut to the hole from the
> outside (it can help to have someone poke a nail or wire through the hole
> about 1/4 inch). Now, trying not to move the nut and insert the bolt.
>
> Very gently, turn the bolt to mate with a thread. Now attempt to tighten.
> At this point, the nut may become detached from the wire, but if you gently
> pull the bolt it will draw the nut up to the inside of the cross member.
> Now tip the bolt to one side so one of the flats of the nut engages with
> the flat inside surface of the cross member and carefully tighten. You will
> need to pull on the bolt as you tighten, but it can be done provided nut
> and bolt are an easy fit. You will find you can torque down to a reasonable
> force but if you try to go over the top, the nut will probably spin. I
> found I could tighten it sufficiently using this method.
>
> One important point. Make sure the nut and bolt easily screw together
> before you start. It can be done and it is actually a lot easier than my
> description reads. Once I had done one, I found the rest a dawdle. No doubt
> the device for holding the nut could be improved upon (glue?), but the
> above worked for me.
>
> Derry
>
> Or, use a 30mm or so hole saw to make a spanner size hole underneath. You
> can then touch the bolt, put on nuts, hold it with a spanner ... no longer
> any hassles at all.
>
> Karen
>
>
Yep the best solution so far...
S

In message <[email protected]>
Silas <[email protected]> wrote:

> Karen Gallagher wrote:
> > "Derry Argue" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > "jermec" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:[email protected]:
> >
> >
> >>Mein Gott. My beloved and I spent the most excruciating hour and a
> >>half this afternoon attaching two of the above mentioned handles to
> >>the rear crossmember of our 90. There must be someone in Solihull who
> >>is very well advanced in his sadism apprenticeship. I didn't know
> >>fingers could bend in these directions.
> >>
> >>Come on now group, and tell me that it could have been done in 5
> >>minutes if only we'd undone bolt X.
> >
> >
> > Oh, how I do love to be a know-it-all!!<vbg>
> >
> > I solved this one by taking a length of wire (about 15 inches) and making a
> > tight loop on the end. Shove the nut into the loop so it is held by
> > friction. You could probably add a drop of super glue or wrap the wire
> > around a couple of turns but I didn't find that necessary. The wire I used
> > is about 1mm diameter.
> >
> > Insert wire and nut into the end of the cross member. (OK, so it falls off.
> > You need patience!<g>). Carefully locate the nut to the hole from the
> > outside (it can help to have someone poke a nail or wire through the hole
> > about 1/4 inch). Now, trying not to move the nut and insert the bolt.
> >
> > Very gently, turn the bolt to mate with a thread. Now attempt to tighten.
> > At this point, the nut may become detached from the wire, but if you gently
> > pull the bolt it will draw the nut up to the inside of the cross member.
> > Now tip the bolt to one side so one of the flats of the nut engages with
> > the flat inside surface of the cross member and carefully tighten. You will
> > need to pull on the bolt as you tighten, but it can be done provided nut
> > and bolt are an easy fit. You will find you can torque down to a reasonable
> > force but if you try to go over the top, the nut will probably spin. I
> > found I could tighten it sufficiently using this method.
> >
> > One important point. Make sure the nut and bolt easily screw together
> > before you start. It can be done and it is actually a lot easier than my
> > description reads. Once I had done one, I found the rest a dawdle. No doubt
> > the device for holding the nut could be improved upon (glue?), but the
> > above worked for me.
> >
> > Derry
> >
> > Or, use a 30mm or so hole saw to make a spanner size hole underneath. You
> > can then touch the bolt, put on nuts, hold it with a spanner ... no longer
> > any hassles at all.
> >
> > Karen
> >
> >
> Yep the best solution so far...
> S

and the even better one is to use the nut-plates designed for the job!
(Though LR don't seem to have any just at the moment...)

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

On 2005-07-25, beamendsltd <[email protected]> wrote:

> and the even better one is to use the nut-plates designed for the
> job! (Though LR don't seem to have any just at the moment...)

I was about to say that it sounded like a job for a piece of scrap
metal, a ruler, a drill and some thread taps.. Nut plates are
certainly what's used on pretty much anything that I've ever mounted
to the rear cross-member of my Defender.

--
For every expert, there is an equal but opposite expert

Here's how to fit them without all that fuss:

http://photobucket.com/albums/a82/MarkieMark1/2fingers/

the '2 fingers' bit isn't easy to photograph as my right arm's in the way of
a good camera angle, although I'm gripping the bolt with the first knuckle
on my first 2 fingers; basically from the 'back' [interior] the 2 fingers
are for holding in place, while the bolt is screwed on from the 'front'
[back of the vehicle]

'innercentralback' is the innermost of the 4 bolts, the spanner there risks
dropping off, needing a bit of recovery work with a screwdriver; the one I
didn't completely undo for my purposes would be the 2nd-innermost of the 4,
although as I say it's quite possible to reach it with 2 fingers, as with
the spanner in 'outercentralback'. All the actual turning is from the clear
side.

At innersideback/outersideback, fingers go in just as spanners do.

HTH

Regards

Mark