Rear diff noise

Dear all,

My 58 plate FL2 (2006- model), 46000 miles, recently started making a whining/whirring noise from rear of vehicle.

After taking it to an independent dealer they diagnosed rear diff assembly which would need replacing. When they contacted Landrover for parts, they said it wasn't the first they'd had!!!

I then escalated to Landrover, who confirmed the same. As it's just out of warranty they wont pay, but based on 3 questions 1) Was it serviced by LR. 2) Is this your first LR. 3) Are you the 1st owner, have offered 33% of cost. Apparently with right answers you can have 50%.

Not happy about having to pay anything, even with it out of warranty as a diff shouldn't fail that early on in it's life.


Had a quick look on the web and noted this, http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11383/LTB00342.pdf.

Does this apply to my vehicle (currently in garage so cant check VIN) and if so does this mean LR will pay it all?


Thanks in Advance.


Graham

I'd be arguing that one til the death...check your vin on your V5 document or MOT???

you could try ring land rover with this bulletin number and see how far you get but you will have to push them but you will need service history

Hi All

Had my Diff Reconditioned by A & B Landover (£400 including oils)19 months and 12,000 miles ago and its gone again.

ARE BELL ENGINEERING ONES THAT MUCH BETTER.

OR IS JUST THE Sh.t DESIGN.

I am probably going to do the bearing myself this time.

Does anyone have the pinion nut tool to rent or buy.

or does anyone know of a spine socket that will fit the pinion splines.
I can source a 41 mm socket to make the outer part of the tool.
or get the tool for £120 through Bosch-automotive.

PLUS
When double checking if it was the diff (rear seats down and boot floor removed), I removed the FB6 fuse to stop the Haldex working, this greatly reduced the noise under load but it is still there as the pinion rotates as the bearing is now badly worn .

Which made me wonder,
Is there a way off tricking the ECU into thinking the Haldex is engaged without removing the fuse and having the light flashing on the dash.

Enabling a switchable system from FWD to 4x4 when needed for the odd snowfall or stuck on a muddy camp site.

REDUCING THE CONSTANT LOAD ON THE BEARING

I'm sure there is an Electrical wizard out there somewhere

Bells are probably more likely to know what's causing the problem, as well as supplying quality gear.

Mike Bentley said:

Hi All

Had my Diff Reconditioned by A & B Landover (£400 including oils)19 months and 12,000 miles ago and its gone again.

ARE BELL ENGINEERING ONES THAT MUCH BETTER.

OR IS JUST THE Sh.t DESIGN.

I am probably going to do the bearing myself this time.

Does anyone have the pinion nut tool to rent or buy.

or does anyone know of a spine socket that will fit the pinion splines.
I can source a 41 mm socket to make the outer part of the tool.
or get the tool for £120 through Bosch-automotive.

PLUS
When double checking if it was the diff (rear seats down and boot floor removed), I removed the FB6 fuse to stop the Haldex working, this greatly reduced the noise under load but it is still there as the pinion rotates as the bearing is now badly worn .

Which made me wonder,
Is there a way off tricking the ECU into thinking the Haldex is engaged without removing the fuse and having the light flashing on the dash.

Enabling a switchable system from FWD to 4x4 when needed for the odd snowfall or stuck on a muddy camp site.

REDUCING THE CONSTANT LOAD ON THE BEARING

I'm sure there is an Electrical wizard out there somewhere

Click to expand...

Yer FL2 is a 4 wheel drive, but not all the time. In normal driving mode it's front wheel drive only until it detects wheel spin and enguages 4x4 until it's not needed. When first pulling away it will momentarily select 4x4 to reduce the chance of wheel spin when first pulling away.

If yer select some of the special driving modes like grass/gravel/snow it will leave it in 4x4 all the time.

In general the problem with the haldex is the fluid filter gets blocked which puts pressure on the pump until failure. Eggsperienced freelanderers like to change the haldex fluid every 20k miles, and the filter every 40k miles to be ont safe side. Bell agree with this. The pump has to come out to get to the filter to change it.

Also the diff bearing fails. When LR moved from generation 3 to 4 of haldex they also increased the diff bearing size to make it stronger to try to reduce the number of failures but it din't stop it totally. There will always be some failures of any part but it was still a problem for diff/haldex.

LR only swop gen 3 for 3, and 4 for 4. Same for the diff. Bell cut some metal out of the old type of diff and fit the larger bearing, then claim they're doing what LR can't. Not strictly true. If yer take a rusty ole disco 3 to LR with a failed 2.7L engine crank, they won't upgrade yer to a 3L engine as part of the fix. Bell do repair kits.

Hi all
I’m looking at making the tools to do my own rear diff bearings
I can source the 41mm socket to make the flange nut holding tool.
But I nead the female spline bit to make the long pinion turning tool

SO AN OLD HALDEX CLUTCH DRUM IS WHAT I’M AFTER
Has any one got an old knocked one I could have

Unless some one knows of another spline bit I can use

Regards

Mike