Series 3 Rear crossmember conundrum

Well as you guys can probably see I have a rather rotten rear crossmember. I was wanting to replace it with like for like but looking at it is a bit of a rot trap design wise and it got me to thinking about it and it may be more affective to make one that would be less prone to rotting. Wondering what you guys think, original or something akin to the modern defender rear crossmember.

I had the same problem with my motor and went for a complete swap to this replacement part, work carried out by my trusted garage. Even the MoT guys were impressed!

Even the defender ones rot , some one is selling galvanised rear cross members but you need to grind the galv off the weld points.
Still should last a lot longer though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...292375253762?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,93905.0.html

I would do a l;ike for like replacement - perhaps galv if you can get it then paint and waxoil it well and keep it free of mud. This will last at least 25 years, the last one was probably neglected most of its life and its still lasted decades.

Blackburn said:

Even the defender ones rot , some one is selling galvanised rear cross members but you need to grind the galv off the weld points.
Still should last a lot longer though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...292375253762?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,93905.0.html

Click to expand...

Yeah I had seen them, they do look pretty good they are made of 2mm steel, unfortunately grinding off the galv and attaching to ungalvinised steel will probably defeat the galv fairly quickly.

rob1miles said:

I would do a l;ike for like replacement - perhaps galv if you can get it then paint and waxoil it well and keep it free of mud. This will last at least 25 years, the last one was probably neglected most of its life and its still lasted decades.

Click to expand...

Well it is the original that’s on there and apart from a few patches it’s been there for 45 years, I was concidering making one quite a bit thicker out of mainly 5mm Corten steel. Though I may just go for one of the weld on replacements. Thanks for the replies guys.

X1 go for original replacement. It's a design flaw that has the crossmember open at the back wheel where all the road crud gathers. Regular jet cleaning and waxoyl treatment annually keeps rust at bay. Fitting rear mud flaps can help reduce crud a little.

Cover that area of the crossmember behind the wheel with a mud flap fitted on the inside of the tub.Have a look at Gwyn Lewis 4x4,he does kits for Defender's that may give you some ideas.

I had a similar idea. I got a pair of mudflaps, cut the tops square and used the galve angle to bolt them behind the wheels so the crossmember is protected from the mud. Its easier on a LWB as you have the toolbox floor to fix to but it should be possible to rig something up for SWB. You can tie them away from the wheel with some cord. I've always thought the std location for the mudflaps does the crossmember no favours.

Fitted a new one to my SWB many years ago...sprayed wax oyl in it and also every know and again...still like new.