Rear Cross Member

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

riflemanread

New Member
Posts
16
Location
n yorks
Hi guys of all the long leg rear cross members on the market is there any makes that you would/would not recommend.
I am sure i have seen one somewhere which actually sleeves over the origional chassis by about 3 inches so the cuts dont have to be spot on .
Thanks Andy
 
all of the rear members i have ever seen have the extensions so they lap joint the chassis - the britpart ones vary from being very good to requireing LOTS of modification to make them fit - the bearmach ones allways fit first time and are v good quality
 
Aye britpart ones are absolute rubbish they don't fit at all well and are flimsy as hell. Last one I had was a bearmach one it fitted well. All the ones I've seen are flimsy in comparison to the original chassis steel.
 
Yup anything but Britpart!

There are some plans floating about google for a good DIY crossmember - you get come heavy duty C section and some box section and sort of jig up all the other bits - one hell of a crossmember you end up with.
 
bearmach are good, brit part are hit and miss, but as above i'v seen a few good home mades out of box section , prob only cost £20 too,
 
You see the cost of steel these days?

I have loads of box section in the garage to make my rock sliders, was going to make some for a friend, priced up the steel from a shop to see what it would cost, £60!!!!!!!!
 
You see the cost of steel these days?

I have loads of box section in the garage to make my rock sliders, was going to make some for a friend, priced up the steel from a shop to see what it would cost, £60!!!!!!!!

:rolleyes: just walk in to the yard of a small engineering works or steel faricators and ask fer a bit of scrap box, some jobs they will have a 2mtr box say 6x2 as an off cut , thats paid fer by the customer so they will charger yer a fiver or somethin,

i use two or three places round ere, only charge me a tenner at the most fer bits i want, had me 8ft ifor trailer full of off cuts to make a press and some other bits , the lot must of cost me only £150, ther were over a tonne of new steel ! they dunt want awt shorter than 600mm, so they would only get scrap value fer it any way ,
 
I'll definitely go with the diy option if I do another one. It doesn't have to be exactly the same as the original so you can make it to suit the materials etc that you have.
 
If I ever had to make one I would get some thick C section, to make up the visible bit, work out where all the holes needed to be, then put in tubes where the tow bracket bolts etc would go and a big plate at the back of that.

Then just the case of making some sleeves to go over the old chassis.

Mark evans made one in a 4x4 is born and it was really good looking.

Here is a screenshot from the show - not great but gives you an idea:
 

Attachments

  • Xmem.jpg
    Xmem.jpg
    56.2 KB · Views: 771
there's a standard small RSJ that's exactly the right size for a DIY rear x member

a few hours with a plasma and a HD mig along with some 4mm plate would produce a totally enclosed member with no mud traps that'll last 20 times longer than a britpart one
 
you can get 6,7,8x3 box section ,cut the v section out of each end ,cramp em up and weld drill all holes n there u go. I made 1 for my sii years ago worked a treat used it for wrecking before i got a proper wrecker no bother, mind i wouldnt like to run into IT tho
 
Sounds good to me. If I was to build one I would probably get it painted up like a submarine and it would never rust, and if it did the steel would se so thick it would take 50 years to rust through, oh and HD springs on the back to take the weight!
 
I used to drive a GROVE 25ton mobile 6 wheel chassis just the same ,to fast, wet road straight on like a plough they notorious for it. If u went up a wet bank on the site it just went were it wanted never got stuck cos they all had diff lock just no bloody steering marvelous!!!!
 
Back
Top