Rear cross member replacement

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C

Clipstone

New Member
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92
Location
Essex
Having looked at the rust damage to my S111's rear cross member it seems that replacing the whole thing might be better than patching the damaged one up.

Thing is all the books I have show the cross member being changed with the tub removed. Is it possible to weld in a new rear cross member with the tub in place????:confused:
 
not if you want to weld the top of the chassis. Removing the rear tub isn't a difficult job and can be done by one person if necessary (though an extra body is a huge help. simply remove roof and sides then undo all the bolts and remove the rear tub. Or prop the tub up so you can get at the chassis.
 
I've just started to do mine, here's what I've done re the rear tub:
100_0416.jpg


100_0417.jpg


Although I've now decided it needs to come off as I found some holes further along the chassis rails :(
 
You would be better removing the tub completely to inspect the top face of the chassis rails towards the rear of the vehicle as well, not to mention doing a decent welding job with good accessibility. No point replacing just the rear cross member if the tops of the rails need attention as well.


Regards, WP.
 
nah dont worry about removing the yup you can get a half weld on each side with a nice mig welder make sure u clean up well though its very easy repair! just had it done make sure u grease all bolts going into tub while you there and fill the crossmember with oil and stuff!!
also drill 3 holes in flappy plates on back of repeair member so you can do a spot weld!! bit more strength
 
thehulkowner said:
nah dont worry about removing the yup you can get a half weld on each side with a nice mig welder make sure u clean up well though its very easy repair! just had it done make sure u grease all bolts going into tub while you there and fill the crossmember with oil and stuff!!
also drill 3 holes in flappy plates on back of repeair member so you can do a spot weld!! bit more strength
Click to expand...

You forgot to mention about the water & crud getting between the chassis rail and the top of the crossmember extension and rotting the chassis even faster than they'd normally rot.

As with every job there's two ways the do it the proper way (weld all round) and the bodgers ways (weld 3/4 and hope) I prefer the proper way. But each too his/her own.
 
naw pikey wot ee meant, i think, is that yer can weld one half from one side and the other half from the other side, so getting a all round weld without taking the fooking tub orf.
 
yes!! hmmmm i was starting to dilike you! lol only jokin

yes you can weld alround although a bit spitty in the middle from where your wire gets long

or you can take the tub floor out 10 bolts usually and off it comes and oil the top of the chassis while you are there
 
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