Rear cross member bolts Td5

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Discodevon

Discodevon

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,497
Evening peeps

Wondered how hard it would be to change the rear cross member bolts on my Defender td5 for nice shiny ones? Looks like there isn’t much room behind there to access the nuts from behind?
 
If you mean the long torx head bolts which have the heads showing on the outside of the cross member (two at each end I think), the nuts are captive
so the bolts should just screw out. Changed mine for nice shiny stainless a while back, with big stainless washers to match. All found on eBay for not much money. Also did all the tow bar assembly bolts in stainless as the original "genuine" items were corroding, as was the tow bar steelwork (genuine LR) which needed grinding and painting.
 
The small 8mm ones that hold the body to the chassis go into a plate, take one out, put one back, that way the other bolt will keep the plate there.
As for stainless, it's very true it won't go rusty but on critical mountings such as towbars, Suspension etc the correct grade bolts should be used. Stainless steel is rated differently to mild steel in terms of torsional / shear strength so care should be taken when replacing anything important.
 
Discokids said:
Stainless steel is rated differently to mild steel in terms of torsional / shear strength so care should be taken when replacing anything important.
Click to expand...
Considered that before changing. Left the original tow hitch bolts (the big ones) in place as they have plastic covers on which slows the corrosion and don't show anyway. Only use an unbraked trailer so never move any heavy loads.
 
Thanks guys I’m glad to hear they are captive? The set I’m looking at come with bolts as well as the torx screw
 
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