Rear axle out of alignment (polybush replacement time?)

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fishsponge

fishsponge

New Member
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Location
Cambridgeshire, UK
When I bought the Disco I was told one of the polybushes at the rear needed replacing. "Fine", I thought, and carried on my way.

I then had the wheel geometry checked and was told the rear axle was out of alignment, hence why my steering wheel sat slightly to the right when going straight and that one of my polybushes was knackered!

I think the time has come to sort it. Can I buy replacements at my local generic car parts place, or should I go to my local(ish), but rather expensive, independent Land Rover specialist?

Also, what is the procedure for fitting?? I have the standard bottle jack & some bricks plus basic tools (spanners, sockets etc...).

Thanks in advance! :D
 
Upon reading further into this topic, maybe I don't have polybushes at all... Maybe I have rubber bushes or "elastometallic" bushes!

Sounds like this could turn into an "oil discussion".

Basically, I want the rear axle straightened up again for as little expense as possible. I want it to last though, and it spends about 5% of it's life off road.

So... Any advice? And fitting instructions?
 
Ok, so should I be able to get them from my local generic car parts place or am I gonna need to visit expensive independent LR dealer?

And what's the procedure for fitting? Any special tools needed or is it a 5 minute job?
 
I think it is the trailing arm bushes... not too good with my terminology yet! I'll put a photo up here when I get outside!

Do I not need to burn them and get my hacksaw out if they're OEM bushes? That's what I read, anyway...
 
You're right - it's my choice. However, I know nothing and therefore can't decide!

Am I going to be able to replace OEM for OEM at home with some screwdrivers, a socket set, a bottle jack & some bricks?

Would it be easier to replace them with polybushes, but still a tricky procedure given my tools?

Which are cheaper? Which are better? I've seen prices ranging from £3.50 per bush to £45 for a "kit"!
 
fishsponge said:
You're right - it's my choice. However, I know nothing and therefore can't decide!

Am I going to be able to replace OEM for OEM at home with some screwdrivers, a socket set, a bottle jack & some bricks?

Would it be easier to replace them with polybushes, but still a tricky procedure given my tools?

Which are cheaper? Which are better? I've seen prices ranging from £3.50 per bush to £45 for a "kit"!
Click to expand...

Don't see why ye can't do it at home, lots o' folk have. Ah'm sure Redhand posted some photies up a wee whiles ago when he did his.

Aye it would be a lot easier replacing them with poly's as ye don't need to really press them in.
Dunno what's the best ones to buy (probably Polybush) but ah've just got the Floflex ones on mine and they're doin' just fine for now.
;)
 
hmm... so presumably "pressing" in genuine Land Rover ones is kinda tricky if all you have is a screwdriver, socket set and your bare hands?

Plus, they're £15 + VAT at my local indy LR dealer.

This is turning into a can of worms slowly... lol, so many possible ways to solve the same problem.

If I could "push" the LR ones on with my bare hands easily enough, I guess that's the way to go. Which ones last longer though? ...and there are so many polybush manufacturers... ideally i want to do this today, but i might not be able to at this rate!

I think I need to phone my local generic car parts place and see what they have in stock.

Also, how do I actually know whether one is knackered or not? I've been told one of them is because it looks thinner (i.e. the trailing arm is further back than it should be). This is why i'm talking about replacing it.

However, I clearly don't know anything about this topic (which is why people like me often just take it to a garage!), but can't afford a garage & want to learn it myself! Such a mine field though... kinda want the quick and easy route, but only if it's not a bodge, if you know what I mean.

I suspect that doesn't exist, and I'm happy to do it properly, but whether i'm capable of doing it or not remains to be seen... (what with having to "press" bushes on etc...)
 
fishsponge said:
hmm... so presumably "pressing" in genuine Land Rover ones is kinda tricky if all you have is a screwdriver, socket set and your bare hands?

Plus, they're £15 + VAT at my local indy LR dealer.

This is turning into a can of worms slowly... lol, so many possible ways to solve the same problem.

If I could "push" the LR ones on with my bare hands easily enough, I guess that's the way to go. Which ones last longer though? ...and there are so many polybush manufacturers... ideally i want to do this today, but i might not be able to at this rate!

I think I need to phone my local generic car parts place and see what they have in stock.

Also, how do I actually know whether one is knackered or not? I've been told one of them is because it looks thinner (i.e. the trailing arm is further back than it should be). This is why i'm talking about replacing it.

However, I clearly don't know anything about this topic (which is why people like me often just take it to a garage!), but can't afford a garage & want to learn it myself! Such a mine field though... kinda want the quick and easy route, but only if it's not a bodge, if you know what I mean.

I suspect that doesn't exist, and I'm happy to do it properly, but whether i'm capable of doing it or not remains to be seen... (what with having to "press" bushes on etc...)
Click to expand...

Ah think ye might struggle to push the gen ones in by hand... was thinkin' more like one of those presses ye find in a workshop/ engineers / factory:)

If it's the bushes that are at the axle end ye're talking about, try and get a lever in and see how much movement ye've got. There shouldn't be any play. if it's the big bushes at the chassis end then ye won't need a press as these are in two halves.

It might be an idea to have a torque wrench in yer tool kit as ye'll need it for the big nut at the chassis end.

The easiest way would be to fit poly's, but if ye wanted gen's then take the trailing arm / lower link off and take it somewheres that has a press and bung them a couple o' quid for pressing the old one out and new one in;)

It would probably be a really guid idea to get new nuts and bolts too;)
 
bustersbus said:
Ah think ye might struggle to push the gen ones in by hand... was thinkin' more like one of those presses ye find in a workshop/ engineers / factory:)

If it's the bushes that are at the axle end ye're talking about, try and get a lever in and see how much movement ye've got. There shouldn't be any play. if it's the big bushes at the chassis end then ye won't need a press as these are in two halves.
Click to expand...

I was shown that it was the bushes at the chassis end, so I shouldn't need a press at all in that case! :D

Sod's law says i'll find play at the other end when it's disconnected though. Let's hope not.

bustersbus said:
It might be an idea to have a torque wrench in yer tool kit as ye'll need it for the big nut at the chassis end.
Click to expand...

I do have a torque wrench actually... a 2ft long imperial one from 30 years ago. One with a needle and gauge at the handle end! Works on the motorbike though and goes up to 100 ft-lb! What torque should the bolt(s) holding the bush at the chassis end be done up to?

bustersbus said:
The easiest way would be to fit poly's, but if ye wanted gen's then take the trailing arm / lower link off and take it somewheres that has a press and bung them a couple o' quid for pressing the old one out and new one in;)
Click to expand...

Well this is the thing... i don't know if I want genuine or not. I have no idea! lol, does £15 + VAT seem reasonable for a single genuine bush? Do Dayco, Bearmach or anyone similar do ones just as good for half the price?

bustersbus said:
It would probably be a really guid idea to get new nuts and bolts too;)
Click to expand...

Indeed. I'll get some of those too.
 
fishsponge said:
I was shown that it was the bushes at the chassis end, so I shouldn't need a press at all in that case! :D

Sod's law says i'll find play at the other end when it's disconnected though. Let's hope not.
Click to expand...

Aye, ye won't need a press for those;):D



I do have a torque wrench actually... a 2ft long imperial one from 30 years ago. One with a needle and gauge at the handle end! Works on the motorbike though and goes up to 100 ft-lb! What torque should the bolt(s) holding the bush at the chassis end be done up to?
Click to expand...

Ahh, ye never mentioned that:rolleyes::D
The big nut on the end should be 176Nm or 130lb/ft (that's for Defenders upto 1995 so best double check that).


Well this is the thing... i don't know if I want genuine or not. I have no idea! lol, does £15 + VAT seem reasonable for a single genuine bush? Do Dayco, Bearmach or anyone similar do ones just as good for half the price?
Click to expand...

Can't really say if it's a guid price or not, but if ye can find the part number try a search on google to check out the prices.... lrseries.com are usually quite reasonable;)



Indeed. I'll get some of those too.
Click to expand...

Grand;):D

Just one other thing... if it was me doing it, Ah'd be very tempted to do the other side as well (ah've got a thing about that when it comes to suspension / steering stuff).
 
Last edited:
bustersbus said:
The big nut on the end should be 176Nm or 130lb/ft (that's for Defenders upto 1995 so best double check that).
Click to expand...

130lb/ft ?!?!? There's no way I can get that much on my torque wrench. Looks like i'm paying someone else to do it regardless then :(

If one side is still OK, is it normal to leave well alone, or is it standard practice to do both sides?
 
fishsponge said:
130lb/ft ?!?!? There's no way I can get that much on my torque wrench. Looks like i'm paying someone else to do it regardless then :(

If one side is still OK, is it normal to leave well alone, or is it standard practice to do both sides?
Click to expand...

Ah prefer to do both sides meself.. but others might say different.

Don't know if ye've looked yet but here's the parts...

STC618 BUSH KIT | Discovery 1 1989-1998: Suspension: Bushes/Bump Stops | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

Don't know how much yer garage charges for labour, but ye might be better buying another torque wrench than possibly paying for a couple of hours labour... then at least ye can use it again;) This is the one ah use.. nowt fancy but does the job.....

Halfords | Halfords Professional Torque Wrench 40-200Nm

;):D
 
bustersbus said:
Ah prefer to do both sides meself.. but others might say different.

Don't know if ye've looked yet but here's the parts...

STC618 BUSH KIT | Discovery 1 1989-1998: Suspension: Bushes/Bump Stops | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

Don't know how much yer garage charges for labour, but ye might be better buying another torque wrench than possibly paying for a couple of hours labour... then at least ye can use it again;) This is the one ah use.. nowt fancy but does the job.....

Halfords | Halfords Professional Torque Wrench 40-200Nm

;):D
Click to expand...

OK, so £15+VAT isn't too bad for a single bush, considering lrseries.com have a pair for £32.79.

As for my torque wrench, it turns out that it actually goes up to 150 foot-pounds or 21 kilogram-metres.

Kilograms to newtons is a "times 10" calculation, but only at sea level!! I'm sure this wrench was meant for use at sea level though, so 210 newton-metres it is! :D

I could always get my local garage to torque it again afterwards just to make sure.

As for procedure... here's my first attempt. Please point out mistakes:

- Engage diff lock, chock a wheel or two.
- Jack up the chassis, not the axle (I figured this because what would stop the rear axle sliding off the jack once the trail arm is removed??)
- Block up the chassis so you don't get crushed.
- Undo the single bolt holding the trail arm to the chassis.
- Push the trail arm through the hole and let the bushes fall away.
- Offer up the new bushes and push the trail arm back through the hole.
- Put the nut back on the end and tighten to whatever it should be (possibly 130 foot-pounds).

Anything wrong with that??
 
fishsponge said:
OK, so £15+VAT isn't too bad for a single bush, considering lrseries.com have a pair for £32.79.

As for my torque wrench, it turns out that it actually goes up to 150 foot-pounds or 21 kilogram-metres.

Kilograms to newtons is a "times 10" calculation, but only at sea level!! I'm sure this wrench was meant for use at sea level though, so 210 newton-metres it is! :D

I could always get my local garage to torque it again afterwards just to make sure.

As for procedure... here's my first attempt. Please point out mistakes:

- Engage diff lock, chock a wheel or two.
- Jack up the chassis, not the axle (I figured this because what would stop the rear axle sliding off the jack once the trail arm is removed??)
- Block up the chassis so you don't get crushed.
- Undo the single bolt holding the trail arm to the chassis.
- Push the trail arm through the hole and let the bushes fall away.
- Offer up the new bushes and push the trail arm back through the hole.
- Put the nut back on the end and tighten to whatever it should be (possibly 130 foot-pounds).

Anything wrong with that??
Click to expand...
Nope, that's pretty much it... like ah did it

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/lower-link-bushes-renewal-65096.html

;):D
 
bustersbus said:
Nope, that's pretty much it... like ah did it

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/lower-link-bushes-renewal-65096.html

;):D
Click to expand...

fantastic - great guide too, but the pictures are mostly broken! lol

i notice the images are hosted on photobucket... if photobucket ceases to exist some day, or goes offline temporarily (like today it seems!) all your guides will become useless :( :eek:

As i have my own web site, would you like me to host the guides and photos (credit given to yourself, of course!) so if photobucket ever disappears forever, you know the images are safe??

obviously the guides could still remain here on landyzone, but a backup copy could exist in my site, and the images from my site could be referenced here on landyzone (to replace the images from photobucket).

I have had my web site since 1998 and intend to keep it for the rest of my life, so they would be pretty safe with me.

Anyway... I think i'm gonna have to buy a larger socket - my largest one doesn't come close to the nut holding the trail arm in place! Cheaper than paying a garage to do it though.

And I think i'll hav to use bricks and wood to block up my vehicle, as my axle stands are rusty as hell and have a completely unknown history. I wouldn't trust them with a 4 wheeled vehicle, I don't think! We recently blocked up a 13-ton steam engine with wooden blocks though, so I should know how to do that safely :D
 
also, where can i find out what torque the bush nut should be done back up to for definite? my haynes manual doesn't seem to have it listed in the "torque settings" section...
 
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