(Really) worn out brakes!

The rear passenger side brake on my Series 3 that I bought earlier in the year sounded like it was rubbing, so I took it off to have a look. It turned out that the pads were completely gone off the shoes and the steel had been grinding aginst the cast iron drum. This had caused the hub to become full of powdery cast iron dust.

I had no idea that this brake was in such a state, or how the previous owner let it get that far. I haven't actually had chance to drive the S3 much since I got the insurance earlier in the year. I won't be driving it again until I have made sure that all the brakes are sorted!

Is it possible to skim the inside of the drums out on a lathe or is it best to use new ones?

Thanks for any info.

how much would you be needing to take off to get the inner flat again ? - a couple of mil won't do any harm

i think it would be better to buy new parts

New drum or good s/h.

I thought of skimming it as I regularly use lathes at work. Setting up and skimming the inside of it would not difficult, so I thought I could save buying a new one.

It doesn't look like it needs much off it. What I was wondering is if there is a limit of how much can be removed before it must be replaced.

Although it may be easier to just buy a new one.

there's plenty of meat on the original drums, and they tend to be made out of proper metal - I'd have no issues with skimming a few mm off

fairly common practice for discs

The drums on my series 3 all have maximum diameter cast in to them. Fronts 11.060" not sure on back but will be in the manual.

i skimmed my 88's drums back in 1992 when i was doin me apprenticeship and money was tight for new stuff.
only problem to watch for (depending on how much your taking off) is the snail cam adjusters not adjusting up enough resulting in excessive pedal travel.
there is a recomended maximum, but i dont know it without lookin in the manual.

nrgserv said:

i skimmed my 88's drums back in 1992 when i was doin me apprenticeship and money was tight for new stuff.
only problem to watch for (depending on how much your taking off) is the snail cam adjusters not adjusting up enough resulting in excessive pedal travel.
there is a recomended maximum, but i dont know it without lookin in the manual.

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maximum drum wear limmit is cast into the outer chamfered side of the drum int it

johnny curt 1 said:

maximum drum wear limmit is cast into the outer chamfered side of the drum int it

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dunno, i have a pint of guinness next to me not a drum!

i'll look tomoz tho, but 'll be no use as dunno what the op has, 88 or 109.
if it gets really desperate, could look in r&m manual.

New drums aren't stupid money, buy new ones.

Thanks for the replies. To answer ngserv's question I have an 88.

I have been told to be careful with the dust from these brakes as it may have asbestos in. What should I do to get rid of the dust?

hold your breath when you brush it out / blow it out......

Webley1991 said:

Thanks for the replies. To answer ngserv's question I have an 88.

I have been told to be careful with the dust from these brakes as it may have asbestos in. What should I do to get rid of the dust?

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old vacuume cleaner ready for going to the tip

you know that old bugger with the hose and broken brush belt thats stood in the back of the storage area cubby hole under the stairs or the back of the garage (evryone has one somewhere ) i just keep a ****ty one for hoovering out me cars and the back of the van wich i liberated from outside some old dears house waiting for the bin men :smokin::smokin:

ps it stinks of damp and moth balls when its running but its ok for a freebie

Dont blow/brush/suck brake dust! get some brake cleaner from halfords or somewhere and use that

Does anyone know if anywhere sells a complete set of replacement brake pipes and flexi hoses? If anywhere does a full set, how much do they cost?

lr series or paddocks will do kits take a look

I have found the Automec kits for sale on Paddocks. Has anyone here bought one? I would like to know if these include the Flexi pipes or not. The description is not clear about this.

When installing the new pipes, what is the best way to secure them in place so that they are not damaged by friction?

After spending Friday afternoon, all day yesterday and all day today fitting the new brake parts, I thought I was nearly done.

I skimmed the rear ones out on the lathe and they came out very well. The front ones weren't scored so I didn't do anything with these.

The skimmed rear drums went back over the shoes alright, and setting the snail cams wasn't a problem.

However, I found that the front drums are too small to go back over the new springs and cylinders. This is with the snails at the lowest setting. They also catch on the rear shoe.

I tried taking the skimmed rear drums off and fitting these over the front and they seemd to fit alright. The un-skimmed ones are too small to go over the rear shoes with the snail at the lowest setting.

I will try skimming the un skimmed ones by a few mm to see if they will fit on the rear.

If this doesn't solve the problem, do the points where the shoes contact the cylinder pistons need to be ground down? I would think that the same amount needs to be taken off both sides, so that they both have to move over an equal distance to touch the inside of the drums.

Has anyone done this? How well did it work?