Re: Waterproofing

On Thu, 5 Aug 2004 17:12:09 +0100, Ted Taylor <[email protected]>
made me spill my meths when he wrote:

>What is the best treatment for waterproofing a S3 LWB 109 canvas.Thanks
>in advance Ted.

I tried PVA glue many years ago, Sealerbond or wood glue, watered down
about 50/50 (trial and error, you might want to do it different, or
aply a second coat at a different ratio) and brushed on. It did a good
job but make sure it is washed off paintwork while still set as it
stained mine. it was NATO matt green though so might not affect gloss
as much. Wet the canvas first to help it break surface tension. It
dries clear and slightly darker. I think you had to apply second coat
while still damp, if you felt it needed it.

There is some good green woodstain in the DIY sheds that is supposed
to be a good match for NATO green, apparently been tried with some
success.

All the best
--
Wayne Davies - Mobile 07989 556213 - Harrogate, N.Yorks, UK

On Fri, 6 Aug 2004 22:38:07 +0100, AJG <[email protected]>
wrote:

>In message <[email protected]>,
>[email protected] writes
>>On Thu, 5 Aug 2004 17:12:09 +0100, Ted Taylor <[email protected]>
>>made me spill my meths when he wrote:
>>
>>>What is the best treatment for waterproofing a S3 LWB 109 canvas.Thanks
>>>in advance Ted.
>>
>>I tried PVA glue many years ago, Sealerbond or wood glue, watered down
>>about 50/50
>
>Or if you want an easier option, a 5 litre can of Thompson's waterseal
>from Wick's, Jewson's or wherever is cheapest at the time and slop it
>all over. It also waterproofs olive drab very well turning it into a
>darker olive not-so-drab!. Works well, canvas stays flexible, *much*
>cheaper than 'Fabsil' which is the bees bits for this job. If you read
>the Thompson's application guides for waterproofing, it lists brick,
>wood, concrete *and* textiles ... good stuff.

or ,,, if you want to use the correct stuff, get 5 litres of FABSIL
from most good outdoor activity suppliers, spray on.

towsure have some on their web site

andy