rangie still broke

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v8geoff

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,327
Location
chippenham,wiltshire
any ideas or suggestion it suddenly stopped while driving I have spark it turns over no fuel getting to injectors taken seats out and floor pan got to pump bench tested and pump works got power at loom connection to pump but dam thing still wont fire checked relays fuses (3.9 v8 ) on a k plate help :confused:
 
Remove jubilee clip from return end of fuel rail and switch on ignition. Could you be loosing pressure from rotten steel fuel pipe? Is the black / white ECU wire still connected to coil neg?
 
any ideas or suggestion it suddenly stopped while driving I have spark it turns over no fuel getting to injectors taken seats out and floor pan got to pump bench tested and pump works got power at loom connection to pump but dam thing still wont fire checked relays fuses (3.9 v8 ) on a k plate help :confused:

Looks like you have proved the pump is ok. When you say you have power (12v) at the connector I assume that is with the connector disconnected from pump and using a multimeter? if so you can still get 12v at the connector and have duff wiring (high resistance/corrosion), try checking for 12v at the pump connector when it is connected to the pump. I'll hazard a guess that you wont get any voltage because you have a high resistance somewhere. if you cant get to the connector pins when it is connected to the pump to measure voltage 12v try to use a brake light bulb with some fly leads and check to see it will light up (you need a reasonable wattage bulb to place a bit of a load on the system, 21watts should be a minimum load)
 
Pump was tested straight from battery and worked had only 5.6volts in loom found nakerd connection block cut off and replaced got 12volts sat pump but it still not pumping ive checked continuity on wires all seam ok no breaks will try all suggestions tomorrow after work need to get it working as got back operation on wed so wont be able to touch it for a few weeks after cheers for all the help
 
Is this one of those engines where if the crank position sensor dies the injectors don't inject so the engine does not flood?

Does it have a crank or cam position sensor?
 
Pump was tested straight from battery and worked had only 5.6volts in loom found nakerd connection block cut off and replaced got 12volts sat pump but it still not pumping ive checked continuity on wires all seam ok no breaks will try all suggestions tomorrow after work need to get it working as got back operation on wed so wont be able to touch it for a few weeks after cheers for all the help

If you have 12v at the pump then it should run irrespective of duff cam/crank sensors unless it has an intermittent snag or has some form of fuel pressure switch built in which turns the pump off when the pressure us up?. Have you tried starting it when you have the pump running direct from a battery (as that should mean you have fuel pressure?)
 
...and a lot of cars pump for 5 seconds when you turn the ignition on but then stop until the car is cranked.
You are not chasing a non-existent fuel pump problem are you?

You did say that the pump ran when you put 12v on it so the pump works.

I quote....

In contrast to more modern engine management systems, the 14CUX controls fuel delivery only; it does not control spark ignition. On 14CUX-equipped vehicles, the spark control is done mechanically with the use of a distributor.

When the ignition is first turned on, the ECU energizes a relay that runs the fuel pump for a short time to pressurize the fuel rail. Once the starter motor begins to turn the engine, the ECU gets a 12VDC signal that causes it to run the fuel pump again, and energize the fuel injectors. For the next several seconds, the injector pulse width is wider than normal to provide sufficient fuel for starting. Idle control is performed by adjusting a stepper-motor-driven bypass valve in the intake plenum. When the ignition is switched off, the ECU winds the bypass valve fully open to provide enough air the next time the engine is started.

To determine the amount of fuel required by the engine, the ECU reads a number of sensors measuring the following factors:

Intake air mass
Coolant temperature
Engine speed
Throttle position
Fuel temperature
Exhaust oxygen content (narrowband)
Road speed
The intake air mass is measured with a "hot-wire" mass airflow sensor: drawn in by intake manifold vacuum, air moves past an electrically-heated wire filament, and the degree to which the filament is cooled indicates the mass of the airstream.
 
If you have 12v at the pump then it should run irrespective of duff cam/crank sensors unless it has an intermittent snag or has some form of fuel pressure switch built in which turns the pump off when the pressure us up?. Have you tried starting it when you have the pump running direct from a battery (as that should mean you have fuel pressure?)

you`ve got to try a squeasy bottle part filled with petrol, with a small bit of pipe poked in the outlet hole, get someone to turn the engine over on the key while you start a steady fine squirt down the big hole the air goes into the engine / airflow meter...
if its got sparks then you can get it to run by careful squirting of petrol.
= sparks plus petrol make bangs in the cylinders....

if anything else is not working while you spin it over and not starting,
and something is wrong, but you dont know what, your ****ing in the wind.
my way lets you know its not directly electrical, but my be electricaly malfunctioning = failsafe mode fooked/pump turning off before ignition fires/whatever..

as said before, its not imobilising is it..:confused:
 
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