Range rover v8 3.6

Bigjim80 · Feb 28, 2019

Help me out please.

Right. Got this range rover 2007 3.6 v8 diesel
The heaters only blow cold air, tried to top up coolant and bleed. Couldn't seem to get all the air out.
And twice now when I've stopped theres smoke/steam from under the bonnet seemingly from somewhere under the right 'boost pipe'(???) I'm new to this so please go easy on me. What could be the problem/problems?

Henry_b · Feb 28, 2019

EGR coolers are notorious on the 3.6 TDV8 for leaking, aswell as the thermostat housings.

And while you're rooting around have a gander at the coolant reservoir make sure it isn't split leaking..

Are the EGR's original?

Bigjim80 · Feb 28, 2019

Ok. I cant see any leaks in the reservoir. Don't know about egr valves. I'll try and locate them tomorrow.... would the above cause blowers in the car to not blow hot only cold air?

tomcat59alan · Feb 28, 2019

That right hand blue pipe looks damp, probably sprayed from the smaller black hose,get rid of the engine cover ,top up, run it and see if a leak is visable

Henry_b · Feb 28, 2019

Yes..

Whats the temp gauge like?

IS there a visible leak on your drive?

tomcat59alan · Feb 28, 2019

Bigjim80 said:
Ok. I cant see any leaks in the reservoir. Don't know about egr valves. I'll try and locate them tomorrow.... would the above cause blowers in the car to not blow hot only cold air?

Lack of hot water in the heater matrixdue to low water level or air lock.

Bigjim80 · Feb 28, 2019

No visible water leak on the floor where I park. Temp gauge was at 12 o clock. Then today went up to red and warning 'coolant temperature' came up on the dash, then went off again and gauge dropped back to normal

Henry_b · Feb 28, 2019

Whats the coolant level in the reservoir?

Bigjim80 · Feb 28, 2019

I tried to bleed it. Opened the bleed screw, air hissed out until coolant came out. I then tighten I'd and air pushes the level down. Level is between cold fill lines....

Henry_b · Feb 28, 2019

Take the cap off and give the top hose a good few squeezes that should expel some of the air in the system.

Also you need to open the bleed valve when the engine is running and heater on max. Keep topping off until no air comes out of the bleed screw.

If you're not seeing any leaks but coolant is being lost then chances are the thermostat housing is the culprit. As it is between the banks coolant tends to evaporate before you notice it, explaining the smoke..

Keep an eye on the coolant level.

Bigjim80 · Feb 28, 2019

When you say topping off, you mean topping up the coolant.... am indoinvbthis with s hotbfngine or cold, so is it ok to open the reservoir cap with a hot engine and top up the coolant? How hard is it to replace the thermostat housing?

Henry_b · Feb 28, 2019

Bigjim80 said:
When you say topping off, you mean topping up the coolant.... am indoinvbthis with s hotbfngine or cold, so is it ok to open the reservoir cap with a hot engine and top up the coolant? How hard is it to replace the thermostat housing?

Top off the COOLANT when cold and run it upto temp so the thermostat opens.

Open the bleed screw and bleed it until coolant comes out free of any air bubbles.

You can also give the hose a good few squeezes with the screw open to help expel any air..

Replacing the thermostat housing is quite involved as you have to strip most/all of the ancillaries off the top of the motor!!

The housing are a very common TDV8 issue, they crack.

Again keep an eye on the coolant level.

Bigjim80 · Feb 28, 2019

Ok. Thanks for your input Henry_b. I will have another look tomorrow and let everyone know how I get on

Bigjim80 · Mar 1, 2019

You're the man Henry. I'll be seeking your advice from now on.
Topped the coolant up cold this morning, bled the air out, and inside got warm air blowing, however, I have now noticed a leak from the underside. Coolant is dripping down the front offside of the oil sump so a leak somewhere above it I assume. Heater matrix or pipes?? Or thermostat housing you mentioned? What are your thoughts on radweld? Should I avoid using that stuff or might it work? Even temporary fix??

brianp38dse · Mar 1, 2019

Avoid rad weld they are a complex system last thing you want to do is cause more problems fix it right fix it once.

Datatek · Mar 1, 2019

Bigjim80 said:
You're the man Henry. I'll be seeking your advice from now on.
Topped the coolant up cold this morning, bled the air out, and inside got warm air blowing, however, I have now noticed a leak from the underside. Coolant is dripping down the front offside of the oil sump so a leak somewhere above it I assume. Heater matrix or pipes?? Or thermostat housing you mentioned? What are your thoughts on radweld? Should I avoid using that stuff or might it work? Even temporary fix??

DON'T use Radweld.

DanClarke · Mar 1, 2019

If its running down and dripping off the front of the sump is this not likely to be the water pump?

On the subject of RADWELD, it is a thing of LAST RESORT for sure.
A previous Rangie of mine (4.6) had a boiling-over and water dumping problem that the dealer struggled to fix. New HG's, new expansion cap etc. etc.
It wasn't leaking, I had multiple "pressure-tests" done all came up OK.
Nothing seemed to fix the problem and I was tired of seeing the red "Overheat" light coming on and having to sit for ages at the side of the motorway waiting for the car to cool sufficiently to allow me to pour fresh water in.
Tired of having to carry gallons of water with me in the boot "Just-in-case".
In sheer desperation I chucked one dose of "Bar's Leak's in the system and it never overheated or dumped water ever again during the rest of my time with the motor (60,000 miles).
So while I agree wholeheartedly that it is to be avoided, it has worked for me where all else failed.

Henry_b · Mar 1, 2019

Radweld is evil stuff.

Thermostat housing on the TDV8 is very fragile, aswell as the EGR coolers.

The Thermostst housing is just infront of the oil filter on the top of the engine, close to the front of the V

A right pain to do as most of the ancillaries have to be removed to get to it.

Best pull the plastic engine cover off, and have a root around with a torch

tomcat59alan · Mar 1, 2019

Henry_b said:
Radweld is evil stuff.

Thermostat housing on the TDV8 is very fragile, aswell as the EGR coolers.

The Thermostst housing is just infront of the oil filter on the top of the engine, close to the front of the V

A right pain to do as most of the ancillaries have to be removed to get to it.

Best pull the plastic engine cover off, and have a root around with a torch

At last, see post #4.

Bigjim80 · Mar 2, 2019

Not sure if much can be seen on pics. I did video it but wont let me upload video.
Thoughts anyone? Bubbles in coolant? Likely point of leak?

Range rover v8 3.6

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