Range Rover TD6 no drive

hi hope someone can shed some light on this my car post drive yesterday and had the transfer box neutral warning come up, I got it recovered and managed to mess with fuse 37 to get it to move a few yards but fuse 37 was already fitted in the fusebox so can't understand how it has ever drive anywhere at all in the few months i have owned it
I read the codes last night but only briefly just wanted to get it back on my drive going to read them today and I will post the results later
All advice welcome
Thanks

Just a bit more info I don’t know the history of the gearbox or oil changes at all the car has done 175000 miles there was no noises before breakdown but I did get a trans safe fail warning flash on the dash for a split second, also noticed that before I cleared the codes last night when I went to start the car the abs, steering angle and another yellow light sort of flickered quickly as I cranked it over

Sorry for long drawn out thread lol

The lights sound like low voltage, make sure the battery and alternator are in tip top condition first as it wont help diag.

brianp38dse said:

The lights sound like low voltage, make sure the battery and alternator are in tip top condition first as it wont help diag.

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As above.

Ive got an ongoing post on the same subject, with same symptoms only i never got the trans neutral warning.

Hi sorry to hear your in same boat as me I’m going to get underneath tonight to have a look at the transfer motor and wiring hopefully to see if anything is obviously amiss but not hopeful

Hi
ive pulled the transfer box motor out tonight i have powered it up and it spins albeit sounding a bit coarse to me but maybe they are like that I pulled the top off to look at the brushes which were quite black so cleaned them all up to a shine. I'm going to check the potentiometer then a being well put it back

the only code present was 5th year monitoring factory code 37 which I don't really know what it means
up post my results tomorrow
forgot to check charging rate but so do tomorow
Thanks

Just checked battery voltage with meter 11.98 which after two days stood i think is fine didn't check charge rate till put transfer motor back on

11.98V is dead...

What should it read then I assumed a 12 volt battery should read close 12 volt

Not sure of L322 specifically but its usually 12.6 for a good battery and around 14 running, although I gather some newer vehicles can charge higher

Just checked New battery i put on sites car and that reads 12.62 volts so you guys are right longer a new battery tomorrow and then see what happens
Thanks

You should be looking at about 14.8v at 2000rpm under full load lights heater every thing, and get the biggest amp hour cca you can fit, especially if you have the vogue model the battery should only just squeeze in.

As others have said you should see around 12.6 volts after the car has stood for a while and 14.8 volts at 2000 rpm but with or without all the lights etc on.

Okay quick update put new battery on and charge rate is 14.7 volts
Still no drive just trans tail message on dash, I'm try and get the codes out of it again tomorrow

just to ask again FUSE 37 was already in the gearbox and had been as long as I have owned it and it drove fine, so would any damage be done with the fuse being fitted apart from the fact it shouldn't have drove

Mick10 said:

Okay quick update put new battery on and charge rate is 14.7 volts
Still no drive just trans tail message on dash, I'm try and get the codes out of it again tomorrow

just to ask again FUSE 37 was already in the gearbox and had been as long as I have owned it and it drove fine, so would any damage be done with the fuse being fitted apart from the fact it shouldn't have drove

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Only guessing, but if fuse 37 selects transmission neutral as on the P38, I would suggest that the shift motor was seized and what has happened is that suddenly it's moved enough to select neutral. It could of course also be an electrical problem, but the result would be the same if it suddenly decided to engage the motor with fuse 37 in place.
Leave the fuse out and if it were me I'd check the connectors and then remove the motor and see what you have.

Hi thanks for the reply i have had the motor out and spun it up but it did sound very coarse, when I put fuse 37 in now I dont get transfer neutral on dash but still no drive
Also noticed I'm not getting the low range symbol on dash when activated and don't hear any noise at all when doing this
Wonder if fuse 37 sends a feed to the switch and had possibly damaged it

Mick10 said:

Hi thanks for the reply i have had the motor out and spun it up but it did sound very coarse, when I put fuse 37 in now I dont get transfer neutral on dash but still no drive
Also noticed I'm not getting the low range symbol on dash when activated and don't hear any noise at all when doing this
Wonder if fuse 37 sends a feed to the switch and had possibly damaged it

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Again, going on the P38, the shift motor has to be synchronised to the transfer box selector, if it's out of sync, it will not work. Fuse 37 should be out and will not damage the switch. If the motor sounds rough, it may spin on the bench but not have enough torque under load to do the shift.

Thanks for all the reply’s

Read the codes again last night and no transmission codes just transfer box codes saying transfer box Ecu.
My reader from work gives funny codes but I will post them tonight
I am tempted to try a second hand ECU are these just plug and play or do they have to be coded to the car

Thanks again

The NV225 transfer box ECU isn’t coded to the vehicle so, yes, it’s just plug-n-play.



There were several software updates over the years so its part number changed from :
IGG 000100 to IGG 500040 to NNW 500440 to IGG 500100 to IGG 500101, so one of the later ones would be better.

A new IGG 500101 is around £350-£400 whereas previously-enjoyed ones on eBay typically sell for £15-£30.

The 4.4 V8 petrol uses the same ECU as the TD6 diesel.



Phil