Range Rover rattle p 38 DHSE year 2000

Anybody know somebody who could sort this out for me

Cheers

a good friend of mine had exactly the same problem and rattle that you have. The independant garage were convinced also it was the timing chain. It wasn't until they had the front end stripped down that they found the worn crank pulley/damper. ...........

is this worn crank damper easy to replace as opposed to the timing chain boy this sounds interesting

cheers

stingclive33 said:

is this worn crank damper easy to replace as opposed to the timing chain boy this sounds interesting

cheers

Click to expand...

Its on the end of the crankshaft behind the front pulley.

Time for a bit of action the garage is going to check out the crank pulley damper and even might have a replacement part of a previous job, fingers crossed, I will let you know.

Hi it's been some time since I said "time for action" and replaced the crankshaft damper, well the garage tried to get a used one but in the end we had to put a new one in and guess what the rattle is still there.

I am looking down the barrel of a £1400-2000 charge tto replace the timing chain.

Does any body have any idea's or know a cheaper place to get the timing chain done.

I am a Rangy fan and would really like to see this baby back on the road.

stingclive33 said:

Hi it's been some time since I said "time for action" and replaced the crankshaft damper, well the garage tried to get a used one but in the end we had to put a new one in and guess what the rattle is still there.

I am looking down the barrel of a £1400-2000 charge tto replace the timing chain.

Does any body have any idea's or know a cheaper place to get the timing chain done.

I am a Rangy fan and would really like to see this baby back on the road.

Click to expand...

hi,i have read the thread on your problem,threaten the garage with a little legal action,a letter from a solicitor can work wonders in getting problems put right through no fault of your own,try it!!!

Hi thanks for the advice, I would like to just get the car fixed and feel going legal will not be a route I would get in to.

What I really need is some body that can replace the timing chain at a very keen price, the rest of the car is just fine.

I even thought of putting a new engine in but it seems £1500 for the engine and £1500 for fitting it puts this idea to bed. What are the risks of just driving it.


Any thoughts

If this could lighten you up a bit...

I bought another P38 today, so now we have 2 DSE and one HSE. My newest DSE, a 97 has the same rattling sound, and the previous owner got a qoute from LR to fix it. They say there is no other way than to remove the top to change the timing chains... price: +/-50000nok or £4500. In total they wanted 92000 nok to fix the chains, change hevac and replace/repair one doorlock and service the car.. In total £8500 !!!

Norway is a nice place to live....

She adverticed this car for 189000 NOK / £ 16700 i bought it "as is" for 45000 NOK /£ 4000

So now i need to change these damn chains myself

I Have A 2000 Land Rover Ii It Also Has A Light Rattle Took Off Oil Pan Had Some Hard Rubber Or Gasket Like Material In Pan Timing Chain Has A Little Too Much Slack I Thought It Was A Stuck Lifter Rattle Starts After A Few Miles About 10

I have had a 'ticking' noise coming from my P38 for some time now. First of all I thought it could be tappets or cam-chain and was dreading it. Last night however, when I started the motor, it sounded like a tin of bolts being thrown about and the 'alternator fault' light flashed on & off (+ power steering was 'jerky'). On checking this morning, the fan-belt was extremely loose which made me feel better (how expensive can a fan belt be) - however as the shops don't open until tomorrow, I thought I'd have a tinker about and eventually I removed the top bolt from the fan-belt tensioner ram. I then tried to move the ram and suddenly it sprung to the left and put the loose fan-belt under tension. After I replaced the bolt, I sprayed the top of the 'ram' with WD40 and started it up to see if anything had changed. Well, the fan-belt now appears tight, the ticking sound that I thought was maybe the cam-chain has disappeared and all appears to be working better and sounding better than it ever has done. I think I will replace the belt tensioner ram (as if it seized once, it is liable to do so again), but as it is a 5 minute job, I am happy to do that (£30 on e-bay). I don't know if this is the same problem as your one, but give it a try & if it helps, you'll get away with a very cheap fix. Also, although I now live in Spain, I used to live in Seaford, East Sussex - I had a 'classic' at the time and I also used 'terrain vehicles' > they were very helpful, but a bit pricey - but these trucks are expensive to work on, so I suppose we have to put up with these prices. If I remember right though, they used to keep a number of scrapped vehicles for cannibalization - surely they could have used some parts from these vehicles.
Also, when I replace the tensioner ram, I am going to have to move the tensioner back > any ideas on the best way to do this - I can see a hole in the center of the tensioner which a bolt head fits into - does this mean I have to get some special tool to move the tensioner back or can it be done some other way (crowbar perhaps) only their appears to be very little room to move in there.
Also, My air-con doesn't work & I have never used it anyway - so while I was doing the above, I removed the air-con belt > is this liable to help the fuel consumption or not.