Range Rover P38 Remote key

Hi i am new to this sigh, due to having a Preg P38 112000 miles 2 owners fom new witch has caused me no end of troule since I have had it

1. Complete engine rebuild, using more oil then fuel
2. Air con packing up 3 times
3. Heater leaking into the car.
4. Air suspension packing up.
I could go on all day

The problem that i have at the moment is the key fob has packed up and I can start it. I have the 4 didget got that you enter from the driver side door, but this will no work. I have tryed following the manual ie. 4 times to the left and then enter the code. I have also tryed to enter the code by missing out the 4 times to the left and then entering the code. The messege that comes up on the computer is engine disabled press remote. As the remote has packed up this wont wore eather. It has now been sitting for a month and is getting on my nerves because I need to use it. Any one with some advice would be very much apprecated.

I assume you have changed the batteries in the remote then re-coded it?

when you try and put the code in by key when you have done the key from center to left and back 4 times it should beep and whenn you doing the 4 digit code it should beep every now and again once its in and the car been running turn it off put the key in the door hold the lock button down and turn the key to lock postion then release button go back to center nold unlock button down then turn key to unlock then release button and take the key out then the remote is reprogrammed to the car

i think he can't even get the car to start at this stage so re-synching would be a later step. the 4 digit code is your best bet, red. unlock the car. open the door. shut the door. lock (turn left once). wait 30 secs (no real reason, its just what i do), turn left 4 times, gently. return to centre each time. then follow the code. slowly, returning to centre each time. when finished, unlock the door (right once). now try the key in the ignition. if you make a mistake at any point, open and shut the door and begin again. it will save you from the 30 minute lockout.

incidentally, does the red indicator light in the fob when you press a button? if not you'll definitely need batteries.

The batterys have been changed and that has made no difference. The little red led does not work. There is no beeping noies coming from the car at all.

yeah well then like you said, the fob's prolly had it. but no beeps from the car when you do the code is beyond me... though it might be dead alarm horn? the indicators also flash when it beeps so you can keep an eye on the repeater lamp in the wing as you try the code. if it flashes at all the car is accepting your input but you are somehow getting the code wrong. if there's nothing, no beep, no flash, then i'm not really sure what you should do. maybe open the boot, take off the trim on the rear right quarter panel and find the remote receiver. disconnect it totally and try the code again. perhaps its being over-ridden by some freak garage opener frequency or wifi signal or something. just a wild guess that; hope someone else can help you better.

If there is no response from the side repeater lamp it could be a dodgy connection to/or a sticking microswitch on the drivers door lock.
Do a search..Gavbriggs has posted the fix.

Yeah these things can be a real nuisance it happened to me too. The problem is usually caused by water ingress (power washer damage?) into the door lock which damages the microswitch so that turning the key does not send a signal to the BECM any more and that's why the indicators and the lights on the dash don't come on when you turn the key. This is how I fixed mine, I had to remove the drivers door card and find the outstation so I could put the EKA code in manually. Once I found the outstation I located pin11 (black wire on mine) and pin 6 (blue and red) then used a wire and switch to connect and disconnect the two pins as if I was doing it with the lock, to differentiate between turning left and right you still need to operate the door lock with the key so that it can reverse the polarity as required. ie if you have to do four turns to the left you hold the key to the left and connect the pins four times etc. It's best if you can have someone turn the key for you while you connect and reconnect the pins. This worked for me. The problem is if it has happened once it might re-occur if you're unlucky which can be a real pain if you are in the middle of nowhere so the best option if it's gone faulty is to get your BECM set differently by a Land Rover specialist so that the EKA isn't required again, setting the BECM to Japanese setting will do this but might give false error messages about the catalyst temperature if it's a diesel and your indicators won't flash when you set the alarm so you might be better with the "rest of the world" setting which will flash the indicators when you lock but it will disarm the troublesome EKA function. Hope that helps

Holy crap. Do you get a free degree in electronics after owning one of these things !!!

I am now s****ing myself as I don't have the 4 digit secret masonic password. Anyone any idea where this little treasure trove would be for my nightmare inducing 97 P38 4.0 ?

tonymccandless said:

Holy crap. Do you get a free degree in electronics after owning one of these things !!!

I am now s****ing myself as I don't have the 4 digit secret masonic password. Anyone any idea where this little treasure trove would be for my nightmare inducing 97 P38 4.0 ?

Click to expand...

Your local Land Rover Stealer will be able to furnish you with the EKA code although you may have to prove ownership...