Range rover Classic roller/Brush painting

As above.....Anyone tried it with good results. I have a daily hack that is looking a bit rough and needs something done with peeled lacquer and faded spots in the paintwork. It will never be a show car and I use it for what it was meant to be used for. Working hard it's just looking a bit jaded now cosmetically and needs a bit of a freshen up on a small budget....

Thanks people.

2 door, 4 door what year ? what colour?

I purchased a classic that had been roller painted on the lower half, It looked like c**p but it was for resto anyway.

you done the rust locations .. sills inner/outer, footwells, rear x member wheel arches ? they are going up in value. if you have done the rust then what not buy a spray gun and learn to paint. the classic is actually pretty good to paint if you remove the door handles window rubbers grille, lights and bumpers you can sheet it out and hit it in one go. cheap marquee from ebay will give you somewhere to work in. the main work is in the prep and flattening out. you'll probably do 150-200 in paint and clear coat

before and afters are here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/another-classic-being-brought-back.269600/

Cost £40 to do, just get a local car paint place to mix a brush on paint

There’s a few who’ve had success with their fenders and series on here. If it were me and it has to be roller painted I’d favour a mod style paint. I couldn’t roller paint a classic though. I’d do as the gent above suggests which is the route I’ll probably take with d1 and learn. You then have a good compressor for your tools too. This is what I’d go for if rollers g my d1. Love this!

ukadamwest said:

before and afters are here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/another-classic-being-brought-back.269600/

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Beautiful job.

Is the rear number plate exactly level?

myfirstl322 said:

Beautiful job.

Is the rear number plate exactly level?

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Thank you. Yes it was.

Had to sell it as the suffix A and CSK in restoration need space

I’ve painted bits of my landys up with a brush and works okay if you don’t expect pristine results.
Usually comes out better than expected and is always better than before, main thing is better than nothing if it needs if for protection

Had a similar problem with mine. Had the front and one rear wing panel and the lower tailgate painted at a paint shop. Did some touch up with a brush around the lower corners of the doors. As already stated, better than before but not great, that the new paint is a tad darker than the original one despite being the paint code doesn't help. I would use a spray gun next time.

landyboots said:

As above.....Anyone tried it with good results. I have a daily hack that is looking a bit rough and needs something done with peeled lacquer and faded spots in the paintwork. It will never be a show car and I use it for what it was meant to be used for. Working hard it's just looking a bit jaded now cosmetically and needs a bit of a freshen up on a small budget....

Thanks people.

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I hand painted a 1974 3 door a few years back.... had some paint left over so painted my Series 2. My local paint specialists had some industrial paint which matched Land Rover pale blue perfectly. Good prep is the key and the finest coach painting brushes you can buy... think I bought Harris. I used a foam roller for the main panels and the brushes to take air out. Drying time was almost a week before I could start rubbing and cutting the paint. When I came to sell the RR and Series the buyers couldn't believe they had been hand painted. Although I do have a spray booth etc.. the benefits of hand painting are:- Do a panel at a time, thicker coverage much like two pack and easier to correct/touch up at a later date. My paint jobs cost me about £100 with materials. Worth investing in a good mopping tool.

Tractol or tekaloid is very good paint for hand painting. It's a high gloss paint and comes out very shiny. It looks good and lasts a while without effort or if you want to go the whole hog, with flattening etc, you will get an almost sprayed on finish. I've used it on boats, tractors and my series 3 (does that still count as a tractor) ad came out with results that made me happy.

I'd leave it alone.

A patina'd original would look better than a Brush painted flustercluck.

YUCK!!

Applying paint to a car with a roller or brush, oh dear.