Range Rover classic restoration

Tis looking much better big thumbs up from me

I am doing much the same as you but I got talked into taking the body of, I'm glad I did as there was a bit of welding needed on the chassis

My chassis is completely factory. Not a patch on it or if there is it's been done very very well.

It's one of the best chassis I've seen on something with a green oval.
The suspension had a complete overhaul with new springs and bushes which looks very good.

So it's looking like, welding, fuel tank, cooling and test drive in the field. Then locate wing mirrors and replace windscreen and then MOT. From there it will be a rolling restoration, so aesthetics and creature comforts will be done at that stage. As well as sourcing a few little trim bits.

So no pictures for this update as it was a very messy job. But after the first and only start up a couple of weeks back I noticed very little oil reaching the rockers. So yesterday was investigating that.
Where the car had sat for 4 years+ all the old oil had turned into a very crispy solid which had blocked the oil galleries in the rocker shaft. So yesterday was a complete rebuild of those.
Also draining out the new oil I put in there when I first got it as in an attempt to start it we had got through a lot of fuel without combustion which had thinned the oil out a large amount and it stunk of petrol.

So when the weather dries, Hopefully on my day off, the sump will be removed and cleaned, the big ends and oil pickup inspected.
The engine sounded sweet and like a sewing machine even with the exhaust system removed until it was revved.

As you can imagine an all aluminium engine has some corrosion where all the coolant will travel. Other than a full strip down what's the best way to clean this out? Just fill the radiator up take it for a drive then drain the coolant out? Or what about the radiator flush stuff you can buy? I'm always weary of flush type products.

Flushes find leaks you don't want just do it a few times with water then fill with water see if there is any leaks and then put antifreeze in and hope for the best
Terry

So not a huge amount to update as I've just been trying to get the sill off but rotten bolts are making difficult as is the weather.
But I was looking through the electrical system and I'm missing a relay. And can't find it anywhere on the Internet.
It's the relay between the hazard switch and the indicator relay. It has only two pins and has a light green and pink from the hazard switch wiring and a brown wire coming from behind the dash.
Anyone know where I can get one?

great progress, good to see one being repaired rather than broken for parts, the 80s ones seem to be dissapearing fast everyone seems to want a 2 door or soft dash.
I have been doing something very similar on my 87 range rover, it didn't look anywhere as bad as yours (I paid £1600 for it) and had 6 months Mot but turned out someone had been very creative with thin steeel sheet, green filler and underseal , ended up replacing or massively repairing 7 body mounts, both sills, rear wheelarchs (inner and outer) and most of the front inner wings and headlamp area, only the rear x member and boot floor were ok as they had been replaced to a good standard.
That said they are easy enough to repair most of my panels were made from 3 sheets of steel.
I am currently re-painting it as it has several areas where the paint is lifting on the alloy panels , like yours it is to be used so the finish is nothing special. mechanically it hasn't missed a beat and passed its mot with no advisaries and suprise from the tester that the chassis is rock solid and it doesent seem to leak any fluids.

no pics..

... it didn't happen

So small update as I haven't done one for some time but life and work got in the way.
So achievements since the last update, the indicators and windscreen wipers are fully functional. The rear is complete apart from some carpet.

The biggest job which is still undergoing is the inner and outer sill. But the old rotten sill has been removed it took all day drilling and cutting it out. But in the process I found something rather unfortunate. The a pillar, bulkhead is non existent. So nothing apart from two top bolts is holding the front passenger door on. I have a few days off next week so as long as the weather is on my side I shouldn't be Far off having a new sill.

Boring but no pictures unfortunately.

Easyon a post kit worked well for me along with pattern bulkhead side and floorpan if needed. Depends on how much of yours has been converted into filler and kitchen sealer. Check latest on my Alan the A Suffix fred

Yeah I've been using easy on, I've been replacing all common rust areas with thicker metal where possible then protecting it.
I'm just looking forward to getting the sill done.

Well a lot of progress yesterday, I was outside since 9am until it got dark, didn't stop for tea breaks or lunch but at the end of yesterday this happened.





A new inner and outer sill all in welded/bolted, The footwell all repaired and painted. Complete PITA to do on your own but it's there. Also other sill was repaired, it was a brand new sill in 2002 as I found the invoice for it in the car, but they only painted the outer sill halfway so bare steel has sat exposed since 2002 and rotted away.

I've just got the a pillar to do, the whole bit needs replacing but I bought a replacement parts from easy on panels.

The mechanical areas that need sorting are the hand brake internals, same as a defender not too difficult, rear brake pads, replacing a few hoses under the bonnet, and then coolant.

Electrics that need sorting are full beam lights, horn and oil pressure gauge, interior light bulbs, under bonnet lights, heated rear screen.

Body panels need to be painted and fitted, one front wiper arm needs replacing, wing mirrors are needed, a new or less rusty tailgate is needed and all body mounts need replacing that I haven't yet replaced.

Then the interior needs a thorough clean, and matting/ carpet is needed for the rear and the foot wells.

Wishing you continued success with the restro.
Update on my post July 4th. - No Classics at either of the two big shows

Looking good. Love classic resto threads. Just wish I had the funds and ability to sort out my two.

norseman said:

And of course without the ability (like myself) far greater funds are needed as labour is usually the biggest outlay. I take my hat off to these restoration guys

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And they make it look so easy too.

Ive had my fair share of struggles already during this rebuild, the sill was one of the biggest. But I don't have access to any fancy tools really, angle grinders and welders are as fancy as it gets, I'm working outside and unless I work quick the new panels I put on will already start rusting.

And I am doing all the work on my own with barely any other helping hands or input so a lot of hours worth of head scratching take place. Electrics are my least favourite thing to do and I'm getting close to that stage.

It is very close to being test driven in the field, once I sort the handbrake, get a radiator hose, and a throttle cable I can see how it drives, what works mechanically and what doesn't, I did buy this vehicle almost completely blind, rust was the only thing I knew about.

This Range Rover will get a professional respray in the future it will look very tatty when it's finished with rusty body work and faded paint but I want it to look half decent and I don't have the patience for painting.

When you're broke and all you have is spanners and such then even angle grinders and welders are fancy tools.

If you were closer I'd be happy to lend what little help I could. Ugh, electrics. I feel your pain. I am at a complete loss with electrics.

Cool, hope you get the bits soon and all goes well.

When you respray will you be keeping it white or changing?

I'll be keeping the White the Range Rover is completely original except for the welded metal of course. I really like the bright blue of the early 2 doors but I've already got a marine blue series 2. It's one of the first with the five speed gearbox that was also used in the 90's and 110's.

When you look at these old Range Rovers when they are and were classed as luxurious it's funny how defenders become awful to drive but when you strip the body away they are close to identical.

The respray probably won't be until next summer quite a few body panels need replacing, the bonnet, the lower tailgate the rear quarter panels and these are proving difficult to source for a reasonable price. Hopefully I'll find some parts at the Land Rover show in Peterborough in a couple of weeks. But I'm pushing aesthetics aside so I can drive and enjoy it.

I have all the spray equipment but I'm limited by money, space and patience to do it myself so I'll either do it in the summer or get it done in the summer by someone else.
I was hoping to get it done and reliable by mid September to take it to the show but I started a new job a few months ago and the hours leave no time for tinkering. However I've already racked up 80 hours of holiday to take before March so that should be enough to get me to the finish line.

Later down the line I will be doing upgrades that won't ruin the heritage of the vehicle, tubular exhaust manifolds, I'd like to wire in the original stereo as it came with it if it works, maybe some extra sound proofing, polybushes but without driving I can't say where I want to improve it yet. Being used to a series 2 with 200tdi I might find it a massive leap forward and might not want to change anything. So this thread won't finish with an MOT.

Yeah some parts prices seem to be a bit higher than last time I looked. Aluminium upper tailgates seem to have gone up too (no pun intended). They are very enjoyable to drive.

Yeah, again same here, I'd have no patience at all for spraying, would have to get someone else which just means more cost. ><

I expect it'll be quite a change from the series 2.