Range Rover 2.5 Dse Not Starting

if you are getting diesel in your oil there is more chance its coming from the pump not the injectors, so i would go for the seal on the main shaft on the pump

no further forward. had the injectors serviced on mine and its still a pig to start. must be the plugs. If I spray "easy-start" through the filter it starts first crank. (waits for the flaming to begin for using the stuff)
so do you reckon another set of plugs? this is gettin expensive.

i have a new set of bleed of pipes that i will fit over the weekend i think it must be air in the fuel but not showing in the clear pipe

fattyfattyboomalatty said:

no further forward. had the injectors serviced on mine and its still a pig to start. must be the plugs. If I spray "easy-start" through the filter it starts first crank. (waits for the flaming to begin for using the stuff)
so do you reckon another set of plugs? this is gettin expensive.

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If you have checked all your glow plugs and they heat up fine and they are the correct length and fitment then you will not need to waste more money on another set.

you have tested the glow plugs all get 12 volts but when you tested them for heating up did you hold them on the block or did you test them away from engine.

The reason I ask is your voltmeter will show 12 volts which is good but the earth between the engine and body could be braking down and the plugs can not receive full current.

Its a bit like testing a brake bulb. It can show 12 volts yet fails to light because its a current flow issue. Good old ohms law. Some people use a test light instead of a voltmeter because it puts the circuit under load. (Even a testlight is no good for glow plugs though we are talking about 60 amps)

A quick test would be to put a jump lead to the block and to the neg terminal of the battery.

I think the fact that it starts first flick with spray and it knocks with the odd cold cylinder, means it is just a heat issue.

sorry mine is still a pig to start when i use easy start it still needs loads of cranking the easy start fires and eventually it runns on diesel

Enlish, yours dounds like fuel pump timing mate. mine fires up within 5-10 secs on easy start.

ok i have been told that in order to start it has to crank at a certain speed if it is to slow the crank sensor tells the ecu which wont turn the fuel pump on so it cannot start
i.m now going to get a new starter motor and see if this is the cause of the problem

Out of interest, try getting a friend to jump-start it.

They're notorious, like Disco 2's etc for disliking batteries that aren't in really good condition. I know you say it's a new battery, but did you fully charge it first? Do you know it it's 'really' fully charged? It could easily be a 'charged' battery that's been on the shop shelf for god knows how long!

I'd also double check the battery to chassis earth connection and the battery to starter connections, indeed, check all earths ...

i have jump started it off my van it still turns over and over an finaly starts
i had a landy with a nissan engine this had 24v starting i never had any problems starting that one
do you know if i can bypass the crank sensor i think i can just connect a live to the pump to switch it on

I've just read this thread and it sounds like a real pain.
Firstly I'd check the earth from the engine to the body/battery to make sure the glow plugs are earthing ok.
I'm not sure this next suggestion will be of value but...
I was once asked to look at a Peugeot 306 that had the same problem and it turned out to be a glow plug that was shorting to earth, this in turn damaged the glowplug relay... do these cars have glowplug realys???
Next the Battery... If the battery is the wrong one (or weak) it will crank slowly and this is often why a Range Rover spins over several times before starting when hot.
Finally (and I doubt its this but its all knowledge) these engines have timing chains and they stretch. This knocks the injection pump timing out slightly and causes a bad starter.
Good luck!
PS - while I think on... as someone has already mentioned those injector leak off pipes can go pourus (?) and they alow air into the fuel pump and it needs to purge before it will start. The system is self purging so it will start but if you swap the leak off pipes and look for air in the clear fuel pipes just as your starting it.

How many miles has it done?

Sorry for hi-jacking this thread English, mines fixed. It had new Glow plugs fited in Dec and they were cheap. I have had em out today and they are shot.
I went down to my local motorworld and got a full set of "direct" ones for £16.50 for the 6. replaced them and it starts everytime.

just to up date this thread i have now put in some more new glo-plugs (good ones) and it starts without any problems what a pig, so DO NOT USE CHEAP CRAPPY GLO-PLUGS

You've gotta laugh really. 6 pages of trying all sorts of stuff and we've both bought crappy glow plugs. somebody should sticky a thread marked "DO NOT BUY CHEAP GLOW PLUGS!" cos the extra time you spend chasing your tail could be diverted to far more useful tasks. (like fixing other broken stuff on your RangeRover).

yes i agree (DO NOT BUY CHEAP GLO PLUGS) now i have to get a new n/s/f door lock solenoid