Nodge68
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The IACV is the black cylinder on the front of the inlet manifold.
Freelander 1 Radiator fans non-functional
- Thread starter drfoster
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GrumpyGel
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Good point, the temp gauge doesn't rise in direct increments from bottom to top. It rises in direct increments to the middle and then stays in the middle for quite a range of 'normal operating' temperatures. Once it goes above middle, then it is hot.
My L Series takes a while to warm up, but once it has, the needle stays 'locked' in the middle - but it must be fluctuating within that range of temperatures.
@drfoster if you are concerned, maybe the temp sensor has failed and is reading low. As suggested ODB monitor will tell you what the temp sensor is telling the ECU the temp is. You may want to change the sensor to be sure.
drfoster
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good call,. yeah mine seems to go from a third to a half in traffic then back to a 3rd again when moving. i think my son has an OBD plugin that can monitor temperature etc. i might try that first.cheers
GrumpyGel
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Actually, that might be a bum steer depending on year of your car.
I don't think they were not ODB2 compliant when launched. Only became compliant later in production - not sure which year. You may need a Freelander specific diagnostics tool.
L Series cars were never ODB2 compliant.
Nodge68
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All petrol FL1s were OBD2 compliant after the 2001 MY redesign. The TD4 wasn't OBD2 compliant until some months after the FL1 facelift was released, and as you said, the L series never was OBD2, but there was still a diagnostic port, which some readers will communicate with.
drfoster
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mines a 2005 1.8 petrol. i got the gadget of my son and plugged it into the port in the passenger side footwell but while it powers up it just says "searching protocols" and its meant to be OBD2 compliant. but it may be a fault with the device so i'll have a look at the instruction manual. i am of course assuming there is only one OBD type socket in the car!
GrumpyGel
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drfoster
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yep, chinese, posh and fangled, not sure it'll comply with the old english half arsed nature of a freelanderA posh new one
Yeh, only 1 socket, up under the passenger footwell.
GrumpyGel
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I was referring to the Freelander.yep, chinese, posh and fangled, not sure it'll comply with the old english half arsed nature of a freelander
Mines from the previous century
drfoster
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ah i get you now, mines not very posh but it'll do lolI was referring to the Freelander.
Mines from the previous century
drfoster
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looks like the guage is incompatible with my OBD2 protocol, you'd assume these would be standard but no it seems not!!! bugger!
Nodge68
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OBD2 is the protocol, and so they should all work.
I have many different types of diagnostic equipment, but for quick live data applications, I use a cheap Bluetooth ELM327 dongle (under £10) which plugs into the port, and links to my phone using an app called Torque. Which reminds me, it's still plugged into the wife's Eos port, which it has been for a month or so now.
It gives fault codes (why it was in the Eos) and clears them too, as well as giving live engine data.
drfoster
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You'd think wouldn't you, but it just doesn't work, the only thing it displays is the voltage of the battery, but at least i know the alternator is good and pumping out 14.4V!!OBD2 is the protocol, and so they should all work.
I have many different types of diagnostic equipment, but for quick live data applications, I use a cheap Bluetooth ELM327 dongle (under £10) which plugs into the port, and links to my phone using an app called Torque. Which reminds me, it's still plugged into the wife's Eos port, which it has been for a month or so now.
It gives fault codes (why it was in the Eos) and clears them too, as well as giving live engine data.
i'll have a look at one of those dongles. sounds like a plan!
drfoster
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Found one on Amazon, ordered! Hopefully it'll read the water temp too
GrumpyGel
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I think you'll find to voltage is just what its seeing on a live feed on 1 of the pins.
If it connects to the ECU it will provide lots of info including the temp. The ODB tools talk to the ECUs not the sensors.
If it connects to the ECU it will provide lots of info including the temp. The ODB tools talk to the ECUs not the sensors.
drfoster
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BT ELM module turned up today so i had a quick play on the drive (oooer!) , using an app called Dashcommand but it only allows free for 30 minutes before you have to pay, and i don't pay. any free apps recommended? there are a couple called Torque or thereabouts.
anyway the dashcommand reads the ECU for temperature so i'll have to take it out on a run and see what happens. what was odd though was that the timing seemed to fluctuate between +10 and +22 even at idle. might explain the lumpy running. but i'll give it a run at some point and measure the water temp at higher guage temps. was showing 60 degrees at about 1/3 on the guage.
anyway the dashcommand reads the ECU for temperature so i'll have to take it out on a run and see what happens. what was odd though was that the timing seemed to fluctuate between +10 and +22 even at idle. might explain the lumpy running. but i'll give it a run at some point and measure the water temp at higher guage temps. was showing 60 degrees at about 1/3 on the guage.
Nodge68
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I use the paid for version of Torque, but the free version is also very good, it just contains adverts and some limited functionality.
Your temperature figure is what I expected, it's running cold.
The ECM advances and retards the ignition continually to minimise emissions and maintain fine control of idle speed.
Interesting to see a MAF reading without a MAF actually being fitted to the vehicle, so presumably that's a calculated figure.
Your temperature figure is what I expected, it's running cold.
The ECM advances and retards the ignition continually to minimise emissions and maintain fine control of idle speed.
Interesting to see a MAF reading without a MAF actually being fitted to the vehicle, so presumably that's a calculated figure.
drfoster
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the paid version didn't work for me, wouldn't connect to the ECU so i went back to dashcommand. that seems to work once it connects. good thing is there were no fault codes. idle once warm was showing at around 750 but still a bit lumpy and low for me, felt like it would stall a few times. water temp with the gauge at halfway while idling on the drive showing as 95 degrees so seems good, heater was nice and hot too. so maybe it just isn't getting hot enough to kick the fans in, just the idle gets lower once it warms up but to the point it feels too low, IYSWIM
