punctures

Hi. My series 3 has the standard road wheels with tubed tyres. I've had a
spate of punctures recently, caused as far as I can make out, by flakes of
rust (from the inside of the wheels?) penetrating the tube (the outer casing
of the tyres seems intact). Anybody got any solutions? Is this why lots of
owners buy alternative wheels and fit tubeless tyres? I always get a tyre
repair garage with the professional equipment to mend the tyre, but is it
feasible to remove the tyres at home with tyre levers (so as to be able to
de-rust the wheels)?

Thanks for any ideas,

Dave

David Bexhall wrote:
> Hi. My series 3 has the standard road wheels with tubed tyres. I've had a
> spate of punctures recently, caused as far as I can make out, by flakes of
> rust (from the inside of the wheels?) penetrating the tube (the outer casing
> of the tyres seems intact). Anybody got any solutions? Is this why lots of
> owners buy alternative wheels and fit tubeless tyres? I always get a tyre
> repair garage with the professional equipment to mend the tyre, but is it
> feasible to remove the tyres at home with tyre levers (so as to be able to
> de-rust the wheels)?

Remove the tyres, sandblast the rims, paint hem with a vinyl etching
primer then a coat of decent epoxy enamel and they should be right for a
good few years - I do this regularly to customer's wheels at work and it
solves all the problems with flaky rust causing punctures.

It's also probably worth putting new tubes in afterwards as the rust
flakes embed in the rubber and keep causing punctures even after the rim
is cleaned up.

You can change them with tyre levers at home if you're a masochist and
the tyres aren't too stiff in the sidewall.

--
EMB
change two to the number to reply

David Bexhall vaguely muttered something like ...
> Hi. My series 3 has the standard road wheels with tubed tyres. I've had a
> spate of punctures recently, caused as far as I can make out, by flakes of
> rust (from the inside of the wheels?) penetrating the tube (the outer
> casing of the tyres seems intact). Anybody got any solutions?

Yup .. get the tyres removed, clean the wheels, preferably sand-blasted,
then use an etch primer and an enamel paint. Get new tubes.

> Is this
> why lots of owners buy alternative wheels and fit tubeless tyres? I
> always get a tyre repair garage with the professional equipment to mend
> the tyre, but is it feasible to remove the tyres at home with tyre levers
> (so as to be able to de-rust the wheels)?

It is feasible to do it with tyre levers, but it's harder than a hard thing
on a bad day. Use a local tyre fitter.

--
Paul ...

(8(|) Homer Rules !!!

"A tosser is a tosser, no matter what mode of transport they're using."

On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 23:54:26 +0100, "David Bexhall"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi. My series 3 has the standard road wheels with tubed tyres. I've had a
>spate of punctures recently, caused as far as I can make out, by flakes of
>rust (from the inside of the wheels?) penetrating the tube (the outer casing
>of the tyres seems intact). Anybody got any solutions? Is this why lots of
>owners buy alternative wheels and fit tubeless tyres? I always get a tyre
>repair garage with the professional equipment to mend the tyre, but is it
>feasible to remove the tyres at home with tyre levers (so as to be able to
>de-rust the wheels)?
>
>Thanks for any ideas,
>
>Dave
>
If your aren't in any rush (and wan't to keep the vehicle running) you
could do them one-at-a-time, starting with the spare (but don't go to
far from home!)

All the best ..

T i m

the inner tubes available today are very thin compared to ones that used to be
used and they will puncture easily .

do youre tyres have small diagonal ribs inside , most landy tyres do , if so
then this is the root of the problem, the ribs rub against the tubes and
eventually puncture them .

rarely do i get a true puncture which is down to an object picked up through
wall of tyre , it allways seems from within the tyre itself .

check youre tube next time to see where the puncture originated from within the
trye/wheel .

i have had many a puncture in the years ive owned landrovers/rangerovers and
its allways the same problem , i got used to it and it only costs me £5 to get
them repaired or have my new tubes fitted .

i tend to use remould mudtrack tyres and am aware i dont have the best options
, but price is important .

it doesnt matter if you use steel landrover/ steel rangerover rostyle or
rangerover classic ali rims , they all do the same thing .

i have sandblasted and painted the rostyle rims , they are better now but ive
still had 2 punctures in the last year since new tryes placed on them , it
usually comes hand in hand with driving longer distances than just a few miles
, ie you get home after a trip out and the the next morning find you have a
flattie :-(( !!.

i buy a few spare tubes every so often and when i get a puncture i just have a
new tube fitted .

i think tubeless are the way to go though and would be insterested as to what
others use in the way of rims and tyre combinations .

i used to use weller 8 spoke rims with tubeless 31x10.5x15 armstrong norseman
tyres and only ever had one puncture .

M0bcg wrote:
> the inner tubes available today are very thin compared to ones that used to be
> used and they will puncture easily .
>
> do youre tyres have small diagonal ribs inside , most landy tyres do , if so
> then this is the root of the problem, the ribs rub against the tubes and
> eventually puncture them .
>
Loads of talcum when you assemble them stops this.


--
EMB
change two to the number to reply

On or around 02 Oct 2004 11:56:59 GMT, [email protected] (M0bcg) enlightened us
thusly:

> rarely do i get a true puncture which is down to an object picked up through
>wall of tyre , it allways seems from within the tyre itself .

bloody had one the other day. damned if I know what the offending item was,
it looks vaguley like a piece of bone from some small animal. went through
the tyre right at the edge of the tread, and needed a tube to fix it as it
wasn't in a pluggable location, buggrit.

Rabbit's revenge, perhaps...

In <[email protected]> David Bexhall wrote:
> Hi. My series 3 has the standard road wheels with tubed tyres. I've
> had a spate of punctures recently, caused as far as I can make out, by
> flakes of rust (from the inside of the wheels?) penetrating the tube (
> the outer casing of the tyres seems intact). Anybody got any
> solutions? Is this why lots of owners buy alternative wheels and fit
> tubeless tyres? I always get a tyre repair garage with the
> professional equipment to mend the tyre, but is it feasible to remove
> the tyres at home with tyre levers (so as to be able to de-rust the
> wheels)?

I bought a Tyrepliers kit a couple of months ago so that I could do jobs
like this myself, at home or when out and about. A bit pricey at 160
quid plus the dreaded, but well worth it IMHO. When we were in Belgium a
few weeks ago I picked up a puncture (friction between the tyre and tube).
It took 30 minutes to remove the tyre and tube from the wheel, clean the
tyre and wheel and put the tyre back on the wheel with a new tube. They
are available in the UK from Outback Import - 01274 735000 There's a
picture of the kit propped up against the front of my motor in the
November LRe mag (Shop Window section). The kit comes with a bead
breaker tool (the Tyrepliers) and a couple of good quality tyre levers.
You also get a box of repair tools, patches etc... for tubed and
tubeless repairs. It also includes a small guide book that takes you
through everything you need to know to use the kit properly. I've
changed tyres with levers before but, I now know, that I was using brute
force rather than technique. With the right technique it really is an
easy job to do. No connection, just the usual evangalism of someone who
now wonders how they survived for so long without this particular bit of
kit

Anyway, assuming that you are fitting new tubes there are a few things
that need to be done before you fit them. Unfortunately most tyre places
will just throw the tubes in without any thought or preparation. They
also use the cheapest (read thinnest) tubes they can lay their hands on
so you should always insist on known manufacturer tubes or supply your
own. IME professional tyre fitters have a nasty habit of pinching the
tubes as they put the tyre on and their rotating machine twists the tube
and it's valve which can lead to failures later on. Strangely I've not
yet had a puncture in a tube I fitted myself but in the past I've had
punctures within weeks (in one case within a day) of having them fitted
by a "professional".

1) Check the inside of the tyre for anything that shouldn't be there -
it's not unknown for "tubeless" tyres to have labels stapled to the
inside of the tyre. The staple will soon wear through the tube as the
tyre flexes.

2) Clean the inside of the tyre and the rim as best you can, removing
any dust, dirt, rust etc...

3) Cover the inside of the tyre and the tube with talcum powder. This
helps reduce friction wear between the tyre and tube and can extend the
life of the tube considerably.

HTH

cheers

Dave W.
http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/