protection for 110 in surrey

Ok Here goes. (Gues I am going to be told to search site but what the heck)
Just got my first 110 (after 15 years of a disco) and want to protect the underside. It's looking a little rusty around the chassis but mainly surface stuff from what I can see.
Now the questions:
Waxoyl of hammerite?
If Waxoyl how difficult is it to do? or is it better to get it done professionally ?
If professionally does anyone know a place around surrey ?
Thanks in advance

Welcome

Yeh, could say search but it's boring!

Depends how thorough you want to be, but either way a messy job. Loads of opinions about based on people's favorites.

1) remove any loose stuff - wire brush/drill attachment

2) weld up any holes you create (you might!)

now you have a choice:

a) drench with your choice of rust protector (waxoyl, dinitrol or ankor wax) - I prefer ankor wax as easier to spray (thinner) and chases away water as it goes on which waxoyl does not - but just my choice

or

b) do a proper job and use one of the 3 part systems (POR 15 or KBS Rustseal) - they're pretty much the same. Firstly you degrease, then you spray to phosphor coat any rust, then apply 2 coats of a black paint which forms a very tough layer

Whatever you do, really important to spray loads of ankor wax (or equiv) into all the chassis box sections

Good luck - oh, and protect your drive if you have a missus that likes her paving

Thanks very much for the advice. Had not heard about the Ankor wax . Found some mention about the POR15 and some good reports. Think I will try and do a proper job

As for the drive :- its had a Discovery sitting on it which used to leak so already have a large black patch on it. Maybe I can even the whole thing out at the same time. Just need to persuade the missus she want to paint it herself

Thanks again

Station house is spot on I'd say.

But id just add one thing. In step 1, add hit it hard with a hammer and poke various bits with something pointy also.

If you're going to the trouble of doing a proper job of rust prevention, you really should make sure you've found and welded up all the current bad bits. Sometimes things will seem solid when you poke it with a screwdriver, but it's still too thin to weld to. So hitting it with some force will give a better idea.

Good advice - ensure that you fill the box sections. You'll drip the stuff on a hot day.

bluehaze said:

Good advice - ensure that you fill the box sections. You'll drip the stuff on a hot day.

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Yep, you can't over do it.

Bulkhead also needs loads - undo top door hinge to get probe in, and also remove rubber bungs by the wipers.

I used KBS but POR15 really the same stuff - cover yourself well - I promise it takes 7 - 10 days to get off your skin Saw that as a good sign - you want your rust protector to stay out!

Another tip - compressed air is great at drying the chassis

Everyone , thanks for all the advice.
Don't know what happened. I used to be normal and now I have just spent a happy couple of hours underneath a landrover, am filthy and have a grin from ear to ear even when it was raining .
I have banged and bashed her underside and it all looks solid under there. Just surface rust.
So now for the next question :- (I did say I was new to all this)
To be able to get the was into the chasis and other place I will need to get a compressor. Any advice/suggestion of type capacities etc. Have looked on ebay and web and am overwhelmed with the choice and variety etc .
Again any suggestion gratefully received ...

Station House
Senior Member


Bulkhead also needs loads - undo top door hinge to get probe in, and also remove rubber bungs by the wipers.

Click to expand...

Be careful! I tried this two weeks ago - removing rubber bungs and fired a jet of warm wax in through those holes - right into the cubby space to the left of the heater controls, all over the side and inside of the Mud console and creating both an almighty mess, but an unbelievably stinky vehicle for the next fortnight!

Were those the rubber blanking plugs in the engine bay? Some of those have direct access to the cabin

The samll round ones by the windscreen wiper arms should have the bulkhead second skin behind them and are OK - unless of course the bulkhead has already rusted away

Agree can be messy when you get rust protector where you really would rather it isn't

No the small ones beside the windscreen wipers. My bulkhead was renewed a few years ago and is in fine condition with no rust, filled with Waxoyl by me a couple of times, but never (until recently) through the small blanked holes in the front! Never again!