Power Steering Box Advice Needed .
- Thread starter dogdog1
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I take it you finally managed to get the circlip out 
Been a while since I did mine (used the blue seal & I'd used a speedisleeve on the shaft) & I've forgotten if there were any issues so you might find this of interest.
He uses a screwdriver to get the outer lip in which I suspect is the bit you're struggling with?
Use a blunt one & be careful.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbml3cO6Evk
ETA. If you have a piece of suitable diameter tube/socket that you can put some pressure on the seal with while you get the outer lip in then it might help. Pushed up with a jack perhaps so it doesn't keep popping out?
Been a while since I did mine (used the blue seal & I'd used a speedisleeve on the shaft) & I've forgotten if there were any issues so you might find this of interest.
He uses a screwdriver to get the outer lip in which I suspect is the bit you're struggling with?
Use a blunt one & be careful.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbml3cO6Evk
ETA. If you have a piece of suitable diameter tube/socket that you can put some pressure on the seal with while you get the outer lip in then it might help. Pushed up with a jack perhaps so it doesn't keep popping out?
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Another thought.
If you have a short piece of tube the same diameter as the hole the seal's going into you could try pushing the seal into that then offering it up to the hole & using another piece of tube to push the seal out of the tube into the hole. Similar sort of idea to a piston ring compressor
Might depend on how many hands you've got!
If you have a short piece of tube the same diameter as the hole the seal's going into you could try pushing the seal into that then offering it up to the hole & using another piece of tube to push the seal out of the tube into the hole. Similar sort of idea to a piston ring compressor
Might depend on how many hands you've got!
Hi Ratae , I did indeed manage to get the circlip out ! .. by drilling holes in the washer and using a dent puller to partly bust it out from behind the circlip , then chiseling out the remainder of the washer partly breaking the circlip .. what a frigging nightmare ! I also thought of the tube in a tube idea , finding something suitable is a problem .
I take it you finally managed to get the circlip out
Been a while since I did mine (used the blue seal & I'd used a speedisleeve on the shaft) & I've forgotten if there were any issues so you might find this of interest.
He uses a screwdriver to get the outer lip in which I suspect is the bit you're struggling with?
Use a blunt one & be careful.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbml3cO6Evk
ETA. If you have a piece of suitable diameter tube/socket that you can put some pressure on the seal with while you get the outer lip in then it might help. Pushed up with a jack perhaps so it doesn't keep popping out?
Basically tried all that , as for the YouTube video , he conveniently skips the actual fitting of the lip into the box . Anyway I'm giving up on it and calling in a mechanic , I'm getting nowhere with it .I take it you finally managed to get the circlip out
Been a while since I did mine (used the blue seal & I'd used a speedisleeve on the shaft) & I've forgotten if there were any issues so you might find this of interest.
He uses a screwdriver to get the outer lip in which I suspect is the bit you're struggling with?
Use a blunt one & be careful.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbml3cO6Evk
ETA. If you have a piece of suitable diameter tube/socket that you can put some pressure on the seal with while you get the outer lip in then it might help. Pushed up with a jack perhaps so it doesn't keep popping out?
Probably easier on the bench.
You need to keep pressure on the seal as the lip goes in or it'll just keep popping out again & I think upside down under the car makes it more difficult.
Be interesting to know how your mechanic goes about it.
I just can't remember whether I did mine in situ.
You need to keep pressure on the seal as the lip goes in or it'll just keep popping out again & I think upside down under the car makes it more difficult.
Be interesting to know how your mechanic goes about it.
I just can't remember whether I did mine in situ.
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Common for the area of the shaft that the seal seals against to be worn and/or pitted.
Mine had the black seal which I replaced with the blue one plus I speedi-sleeved the shaft. No issues since & it was several years ago.
There WAS a very good 'how to' that someone had done which I followed & which gave the size of the sleeve required but it was a victim of the photoshop money grab & I can't find it any more.
Mine had the black seal which I replaced with the blue one plus I speedi-sleeved the shaft. No issues since & it was several years ago.
There WAS a very good 'how to' that someone had done which I followed & which gave the size of the sleeve required but it was a victim of the photoshop money grab & I can't find it any more.
Hi Meego , regretfully I think I will have to go for a reconditioned box . I managed to get the seal inside the housing using a pipe within a pipe , the bigger pipe compressing the seal lip and the smaller one driving it in . Two problems , first , doing this compresses the centre of the seal and makes it impossible to push over the protective tape around the splines without pushing the tape up into the box . So I had to push it up without tape , not good for the seal . Secondly , the seal was clearly unhappy about being driven into place , the further up it went the more it distorted til one edge of it just buckled . All in all a waste of time and effort .
Oh well. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Make sure the box you get has had a re-chromed output shaft. Believe it or not, the seal wears the shaft and that’s why they leak in most cases.
I see an ad on eBay for Autosteer Direct £150 exchange including rechromed shaft . They seem to have generally good reviews except for one where they seem to have sent out a repainted box that was otherwise unrepaired !
That’s who I got the last one from that I fitted on my Disco. That was a few years ago and it’s still leak free.
Glad to hear that . Thickness ruled the day and I went at it again and successfully got the seal in ! No idea how long it will last but I topped up with fluid and started the engine and did lots of lock to lock turns and no immediate leaks . I'm not out of the woods yet though . I centred the steering and checked that the slot in the back of the steering arm lined up with the hole in the casting and the grooves were in the right place . But it seems as hard to get on as it was to get off ! Any advice on that please ?
It should go on no problem mate. Make sure the arm and shaft splines are nice and clean and free from any damage. It should slot on without issue and then get pushed on the last wee bit when you tighten the nut.
Edit
It should be really tight (can’t remember the torque) and the lock washer lugs folded
Yes , I'm putting on a new arm as the ball joint on the old one was knackered .
I forgot we weren’t talking about a Disco drop arm. Your new one should still have a section where it looks like the splines are missing, and there should be a corresponding area on the output shaft. Have you definitely matched these up ?
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