Playtimes over - Re Chassis

Ok.

Percy is currently refusing to play in his current guise as a Jaguar. I'm
now running out of motivation to spend more on the Jaguar lump purely based
on the fact that the chassis is now looking decidedly ropey. I've patched
him for 12 months MOT but being realistic I'd rather re chassis him. When I
do rechassis I'll be going old school and Galved. I can no longer be
bothered with tinkering with the non-standard. The origional objective, my
dodgie knee has been sorted as I'm presently running 4 miles every other
day. I'd also like to be able to do some more off road stuff which the
current set up restricts anything other than mild due to issues around the
Jaguar sump.

I think I've secured a standard 4 cylinder 2.25 and gearbox of the right
era. What sort of hours do we realiastically think will be involved in a
Chassis up rebuild (no recon or painting etc , just litereally replacement
is reverse of removal as the HBOL regularly says. The only none standard
items will then be the odd length props (given the stage 1 axles) and the 90
front end which is already fitted so to speak....which I may even dump for
the correct IIa grill and bonnet..(I know I know!!!) So I only need to
modify new props for the standard Landrover gearbox.

I'm actually looking forwards now to working with new nuts and bolts and
clean stuff instead of rust and muck. I've a big tin of plus gas ready to
soak all the two year old nuts and bolts on Percy from the last session.

Any recommendations for Chassis suppliers or companys to avoid?

Lee D

--

www.lrproject.com

Workshop photos from Landrover repairs
& other such tinkerings.
Home of Percy the Jag powered Landrover

In message <[email protected]>
"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Ok.
>
> Percy is currently refusing to play in his current guise as a Jaguar. I'm
> now running out of motivation to spend more on the Jaguar lump purely based
> on the fact that the chassis is now looking decidedly ropey. I've patched
> him for 12 months MOT but being realistic I'd rather re chassis him. When I
> do rechassis I'll be going old school and Galved. I can no longer be
> bothered with tinkering with the non-standard. The origional objective, my
> dodgie knee has been sorted as I'm presently running 4 miles every other
> day. I'd also like to be able to do some more off road stuff which the
> current set up restricts anything other than mild due to issues around the
> Jaguar sump.
>
> I think I've secured a standard 4 cylinder 2.25 and gearbox of the right
> era. What sort of hours do we realiastically think will be involved in a
> Chassis up rebuild (no recon or painting etc , just litereally replacement
> is reverse of removal as the HBOL regularly says. The only none standard
> items will then be the odd length props (given the stage 1 axles) and the 90
> front end which is already fitted so to speak....which I may even dump for
> the correct IIa grill and bonnet..(I know I know!!!) So I only need to
> modify new props for the standard Landrover gearbox.
>
> I'm actually looking forwards now to working with new nuts and bolts and
> clean stuff instead of rust and muck. I've a big tin of plus gas ready to
> soak all the two year old nuts and bolts on Percy from the last session.
>
> Any recommendations for Chassis suppliers or companys to avoid?
>
> Lee D
>

*IF* you have access to a forklift, or a nice tall barn, then
the chassis swap is surprisingly easy.......

This is the rough timing of an 88" swap I did a few years ago.

Undo *everything* holding the body on (you're guaranteed to
miss something....) - 1 evening.

Using strops through the door holes - lift it up (hand winch
works very well in the abscence of a fork lift, but don't
tell the HSE)

Roll out the old chassis and fit axles etc to new one
- 1 evening

Roll new chassis underneath, drop the body on and bolt
it all on - 1 evening

Sort everything out - 2 evenings.

So, allow a week, with two people working. The above assumes
no repairs are being done at all.

If you dont have access to a forklift or barn, you could hire
a block and tack hoisty thing from HSS Lift and Shift,
otherwise doing the swap bit by bit will take yonks.....

Probably not a whole lot of help, but that's one way of doing
it.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 01:14:00 GMT, "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Ok.
>
>Percy is currently refusing to play in his current guise as a Jaguar. I'm
>now running out of motivation to spend more on the Jaguar lump purely based
>on the fact that the chassis is now looking decidedly ropey. I've patched
>him for 12 months MOT but being realistic I'd rather re chassis him. When I
>do rechassis I'll be going old school and Galved. I can no longer be
>bothered with tinkering with the non-standard. The origional objective, my
>dodgie knee has been sorted as I'm presently running 4 miles every other
>day. I'd also like to be able to do some more off road stuff which the
>current set up restricts anything other than mild due to issues around the
>Jaguar sump.
>

Does this mean you'll have a Jag 4.2 lump and gearbox going cheap at
some point over the next year?

Alex

Lee_D wrote:

> I think I've secured a standard 4 cylinder 2.25 and gearbox of the right
> era. What sort of hours do we realiastically think will be involved in a
> Chassis up rebuild (no recon or painting etc , just litereally replacement
> is reverse of removal as the HBOL regularly says. The only none standard
> items will then be the odd length props (given the stage 1 axles) and the
> 90 front end which is already fitted so to speak....which I may even dump
> for
> the correct IIa grill and bonnet..(I know I know!!!) So I only need to
> modify new props for the standard Landrover gearbox.

You're also (probably) going to need:

1) new shocks + bushes
2) new brake lines + hoses + all the clips to secure pipe to chassis
3) new exhaust + all the mountings
4) new rear wiring loom

Don't know how rusty or old your ones of the above are, but if I were to do
this myself I would save up and aquire the above bits anyway as it will
make your life very much easier and quicker to do the swap.

> I'm actually looking forwards now to working with new nuts and bolts and
> clean stuff instead of rust and muck. I've a big tin of plus gas ready to
> soak all the two year old nuts and bolts on Percy from the last session.

Think you'll probably find you're better of with my old friend the angle
grinder..

Speaking of bolts, I have mixed feelings as to whether or not to recommend
LR fastners. They supply "complete" nut and bolt kits for LR models.

I ordered the kit for a 110CSW and got a lot of bits - about four hundred
quids worth of stuff.

Unfortunately a lot of it was plain wrong for the vehicle - some of it was
for later, some for earlier and a lot of it was stuff that just wasn't
necessary and it was actually quite annoying replacing bolts and stuff that
were OK - stuff like the dash fastenings - it's not like they rust all that
badly! And the steering wheel nut and star washer - really rather a waste.

Stuff that we found wasn't included in the "complete" kit was EVERYTHING
needed for the suspension/axles - things that were necessary to replace.
That was an extra kit!

So what I'd probably recommend would be to get the kit for the
axles/suspension as you'll probably end up replacing most of those bolts
anyway and just get a large amount of stainless/high tensile bolts and
washers from Namrick or your local supplier. We used old inner tube to
make washers to isolate the stainless where necessary.

> Any recommendations for Chassis suppliers or companys to avoid?

Richard's chassis - fantastic service - delivered where and when they said
they would, chassis quality was top notch, all holes in right places and
cleaned of galv so they were the right size for the bolts

Regards

William MacLeod

b> Sort everything out - 2 evenings.

Wear Cape and save the world again...<grin>

--
Neil

On or around Wed, 17 Nov 2004 16:12:08 GMT, William MacLeod
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>So what I'd probably recommend would be to get the kit for the
>axles/suspension as you'll probably end up replacing most of those bolts
>anyway and just get a large amount of stainless/high tensile bolts and
>washers from Namrick or your local supplier. We used old inner tube to
>make washers to isolate the stainless where necessary.

I'd recommend going all-stainless for anything under the vehicle, unless you
know for sure that the bolts concerned are critical on strength. A2-70
stainless is not that far off HT 8.8 steel in strength terms - almost all
applications for 8.8 are gonna be OK. A2-80 is better, if you can get 'em,
they're almost identical to 8.8, IIRC. Most of the stainless ones I've
bought from such as screwfix are A2-70, and I've been fitting 'em to all
kinds of stuff under mine. I also fit 'em to things with captive nuts, as
at least only the one part rusts...

I dunno, at the moment I am a patcher and a botcher myslef, I suppose the
time might come when there is more patch than original, got to admit that my
chassis is certainly not the same one that came out of Solihull.

Well I reckon what would really be fun (and I am just fantasising here) is
the replacement of the chassis with tudor oak beams

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes




"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok.
>
> Percy is currently refusing to play in his current guise as a Jaguar. I'm
> now running out of motivation to spend more on the Jaguar lump purely
based
> on the fact that the chassis is now looking decidedly ropey. I've patched
> him for 12 months MOT but being realistic I'd rather re chassis him. When
I
> do rechassis I'll be going old school and Galved. I can no longer be
> bothered with tinkering with the non-standard. The origional objective, my
> dodgie knee has been sorted as I'm presently running 4 miles every other
> day. I'd also like to be able to do some more off road stuff which the
> current set up restricts anything other than mild due to issues around the
> Jaguar sump.
>
> I think I've secured a standard 4 cylinder 2.25 and gearbox of the right
> era. What sort of hours do we realiastically think will be involved in a
> Chassis up rebuild (no recon or painting etc , just litereally replacement
> is reverse of removal as the HBOL regularly says. The only none standard
> items will then be the odd length props (given the stage 1 axles) and the
90
> front end which is already fitted so to speak....which I may even dump for
> the correct IIa grill and bonnet..(I know I know!!!) So I only need to
> modify new props for the standard Landrover gearbox.
>
> I'm actually looking forwards now to working with new nuts and bolts and
> clean stuff instead of rust and muck. I've a big tin of plus gas ready to
> soak all the two year old nuts and bolts on Percy from the last session.
>
> Any recommendations for Chassis suppliers or companys to avoid?
>
> Lee D
>
> --
>
> www.lrproject.com
>
> Workshop photos from Landrover repairs
> & other such tinkerings.
> Home of Percy the Jag powered Landrover
>
>

that'll be a morgan then............

"Alex" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Does this mean you'll have a Jag 4.2 lump and gearbox going cheap at
> some point over the next year?
>
> Alex

Maybe and only just maybe not... I'm exploring fitting a V8 to the package
presently. I've taken the whole thing some thought and consider now that the
way forward may be to install a V8 as in the sd1 rover. This uses the same
gearbox but different flex plate and t/c and bell housing.

At the moment Percy is about to be mothballed unit I make a positive
decisiion one way or the other... like when it's warm outside and light past
7pm again.

Should also give me time to find a suitable donor too fingers crossed.

Lee D