Play in wheel bearing?

With the bearings being tapered, does this mean i can just tighten them up?

Que?

Alc said:

With the bearings being tapered, does this mean i can just tighten them up?

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other wise they fall out

yes you can adjust them if there is play there, but if there is any roughness or noise when spinning the wheel then its best to replace them, its not a hard job and there are plenty of write ups on how to do it, TBH if this is your first landy then maybe its time to start learning

DiscoPol said:

yes you can adjust them if there is play there, but if there is any roughness or noise when spinning the wheel then its best to replace them, its not a hard job and there are plenty of write ups on how to do it, TBH if this is your first landy then maybe its time to start learning

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Yeh this is my first landy apart from a lightweight i had for a month or two im trying to learn but takes time lol

Ill have a go at tightening them up then.... 52mm sockets the tool i believe?

Yeh use a box spanner but if there's play in them and you've never replaced them you really wanna strip and grease them atleast - you probably find the inner one is dry and needs replacing.

OK, do not just go cranking on this with a socket!

You need to preload the bearing then free it to spin - else it will overheat and burn up. Not a good move.

Get the driving flange off, undo the locking tab (make sure you have a new one unless you're a yorkshireman, then just pound it flat and reuse it). Take off both nuts and have a sniff at tthe grease in the hub - have the outside bearing out to do this. if you smell a burnt smell the bearing's likely got issues on the inner and you want to replace them.

Inspect the other one for brinnelling and wear - if you see any issues replace them.If good put the bearing back, put on the inner nut and spin it on till it contacts the bearing with the bearing in the race. Snug it up firmly, give the hub a good spin or three to seat the bearing.

Back off the nut without spinning the hub, then bring it up to touch the inner race of the bearing- don't tighten it any more. Put the new locking tab in place, then put on and tighten the outer nut.Bend the locking tabls forward and back to lock both nuts, then replace the drive flangee.

You want a good spin with no shake of the hub - tight bearings are not long-lived bearings.

ajr

mine got tightened up and failed a week later,new bearing first as last

Ok then ill get some new ones and replace them, the last guy who had it might have tightened them already.

Thanks for the detail mrchurchill

there's a busters how to for replacing them, easy peasy, just get a grinder for cutting the old race ring (used for tapping the new one in) you wont do it with a hack saw

timtheenchanteruk said:

there's a busters how to for replacing them, easy peasy, just get a grinder for cutting the old race ring (used for tapping the new one in) you wont do it with a hack saw

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haha that was i lesson i learned rather swiftly! dremel to the rescue! Wheel bearings are dangerous if ignored, i had one collapse on me at 60 mph on the A1, it tried drag me into the next lane of cars. very scary and i was lcky the roads were quiet. If you decide to replace the bearings, avoid Britpart, they last no time at all, and really don't like getting wet too much. Timken is a s;light;ly more expensive but much hardier option.

The price difference was about £3-4 a corner IIRC (ie one pair of bearings)
If yer buying form ebay be very careful, some sellers look cheap, but the price is only for ONE race (point in that much??!!? )
Think mine were about £16 with a seal

yip, I ordered a few wheel bearings off eBay last week. timkins with both races and seal, etc. for £16

Get the driving flange off, undo the locking tab (make sure you have a new one unless you're a yorkshireman, then just pound it flat and reuse it). :hysterically_laughi

fair one. i have done that

I got one of these from amazon

Laser 4884 Impact Hub Nut Deep 52mm
http://amazon.co.uk/dp/B0039316N0

chezvegas said:

I got one of these from amazon

Laser 4884 Impact Hub Nut Deep 52mm
Laser 4884 Impact Hub Nut Deep 52mm: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

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Me too - expensive but solid

Bought it when I had one on the rear so stuck that I couldn't shift with a box spanner or chisel and hammer

Much cheaper but not as deep:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-SX...VE-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-HUB-NUT-/360635005255


or Island 4x4 (but Britpart!)

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/socket-52mm-drive-da1118-p-4911.html

Right then guys im picking up the parts this week for the job (yes, ive still not done it lol).... Before i go and buy one will i need a bearing puller or is there an alternative to get the inner one out?

hammer and cold chisel worked for me

maybe a betterer way, but I didnt have one. came out easy enough.

When you are knocking the old ones out I use an old solid screwdriver as a cold chisel can damage the seats.

If you work your way round 1/3 of the way at each Twot, you will find that the race comes out fairly easily and parallel.