Painting chassis

Right guys I got hold of a solid chassis a few month back. After having it blasted and the rails thoroughly cleaned I sent it for galvanising.

Well its been done and from what I can see its got two areas one on a front out rigger and at the front of the left hand rail where it looks like it hasn't stuck. my uncle says it could just be ash that's stuck to it and will come off with a little rub down.

so........
option 1 - if it hasn't stuck, is get some galvafroid which is the dogs bollocks of zinc paint so i'm told and paint it with that, but you cant put cellulose or bitumen paints over galvafroid so would have to be 2 pak. so paint in 2pak black then maybe Schultz it.

option 2 - t wash it and paint the whole thing in POR15, then dinitrol.

option 3 - just touch up the two patches with cheap zinc spray paint then paint it black (any recommendations on a good paint for a chassis.)

The inside will be treated with cavity wax no matter what option I choose.

An advice is much appreciated guys or any other ideas.

Its galv? Why does it need all this stuff on it? Touch in the bad bits with galvafroid, off you go!

Or touch in with galvafroid, and then paint with mordant, special primer and topcoat, if you prefer.
I would think putting dinitrol in a newly galv chassis is throwing money away.

thanks for the reply turbo man, firstly I know its galved but I don't want it bare so everyone can see its galved, in regards to the dinitrol option I was just gunna paint the whole chassis in POR15 after T-wash so I wouldn't be treating the two spots where I think it might of not took, then the dinitrol would of been to coat the inside and basically make the outside black.

What primer and top coat would you suggest Turboman? cheers

AntHughes said:

What primer and top coat would you suggest Turboman? cheers

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Believe it is calcium plumbate primer. Google it, there are plenty about. I just use black enamel for topcoat, some like chassis black. Doubt if it matters, so long as it stays on, it is only for appearance, and keep salt off the galv.
What I said about the Dinitrol, guessing the expensive rustproofers will have no effect on Galv, so all you are really after is some kind of water resistance on the surface inside, might as well just use some kind of thin oil?
That is the way I would look at it, but then I am a cheapskate farmer!

Turboman said:

Its galv? Why does it need all this stuff on it? Touch in the bad bits with galvafroid, off you go!

Or touch in with galvafroid, and then paint with mordant, special primer and topcoat, if you prefer.
I would think putting dinitrol in a newly galv chassis is throwing money away.

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That doesn't sound like you. Good God man, Dinitrol everything!

I used brick cleaner (less than a fiver) to etch my new galv chassis and then painted it in black gutter paint , its a silk finish and hasn't chipped off yet..

Brown said:

That doesn't sound like you. Good God man, Dinitrol everything!

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Anything made of mild steel, yes I would. Not sure it has any benefits on a surface already zinc, though?

Zinc coverage might not be brilliant inside the box sections so a little extra help won't go amiss.

Brown said:

Zinc coverage might not be brilliant inside the box sections so a little extra help won't go amiss.

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Possibly, suppose it would depend how long they leave it in the zinc for. Not something I have ever seen done, although I have helped a few people fit them.

think i'd touch up any bits with galv , then just bilthamber/dinitrol or that new sponsors stuff the chassis. no need to twash and paint it that way.

trax said:

think i'd touch up any bits with galv , then just bilthamber/dinitrol or that new sponsors stuff the chassis. no need to twash and paint it that way.

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Think he said he wants to paint it for security, so as peeps don't know he has got galv!

I'd expect that even if they degreased it and pickled it, the interior still might not be clean enough for the zinc to stick to the steel. Especially if it was flaky and full of mud, as they often are. At least Dinitrol soaks in and inhibits any further corrosion.

Brown said:

I'd expect that even if they degreased it and pickled it, the interior still might not be clean enough for the zinc to stick to the steel. Especially if it was flaky and full of mud, as they often are. At least Dinitrol soaks in and inhibits any further corrosion.

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Often wondered about that myself with galved original. Saying that, a friends series is all good 15 years in! Fender chassis is a bit different, though, more complex inside with double plated bits!

Turboman said:

Think he said he wants to paint it for security, so as peeps don't know he has got galv!

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no i mean spray the bilthamber stuff over the exterior galv. it'll look like a norm manky chassis with mud stuck on it soon enough

With a brand new one from Richards, Marsland et al I'd be a bit more confident because they're nice new metal when they go in the tank. But looking inside any car's box sections after it has been on the road for a few years often reveals mud, road dirt and pitted flaky rust, so I'd be surprised if you got good adhesion between the zinc and steel all over. Not to mention the odd bird's nest, dead mouse and nest, lizard, spiders, woodlice and earwigs, pupating moths and lots more wildlife. OK, I haven't found all of these in a Land Rover chassis at the same time, but certainly inside the sills of Morris Oxfords and Triumph Heralds. Dinitrol soaks through the lot.

trax said:

no i mean spray the bilthamber stuff over the exterior galv. it'll look like a norm manky chassis with mud stuck on it soon enough

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Ah! Outside!

Brown said:

With a brand new one from Richards, Marsland et al I'd be a bit more confident because they're nice new metal when they go in the tank. But looking inside any car's box sections after it has been on the road for a few years often reveals mud, road dirt and pitted flaky rust, so I'd be surprised if you got good adhesion between the zinc and steel all over. Not to mention the odd bird's nest, dead mouse and nest, lizard, spiders, woodlice and earwigs, pupating moths and lots more wildlife. OK, I haven't found all of these in a Land Rover chassis at the same time, but certainly inside the sills of Morris Oxfords and Triumph Heralds. Dinitrol soaks through the lot.

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Yes, seen that sort of thing before. Amazing where owls can cough their pellets too!
I am doubtful any amount of dipping will remove mud and rust around the little tubes inside the box and so on. I would go new if I got one, hopefully wont be needed just yet!

When I scrapped my old 110 chassis it was in excellent condition on the inside and that was nearly 30 years old. it had rotted from the outside and there was no rust on the inside to speak of.

Where did you get your chassis galved, just out of curiosity?
The bits you say havnt took or ash, your dad is most probably right with ash. Lots of crap come out during dipping and can't always be skimmed away.
You can use a mild grinder to smooth off any rough bits, but be carefully if you see sparks you have gone through the zinc and into the steel.
You can always touch up anybits with a zinc rich primer.
T wash is the way to go before painting. As for the inside chassis rails, no harm treating it with your choice of rustproofed etc.
As long as the chassis has been pickled in the acid long enough all the rust should be dissolved and the zinc fully coated, but nothing wrong with belt and braces.

Thanks for the reply's guys, in regards to a few things, the chassis is a used one but I must admit its the cleanest used chassis ive seen, no patches no rust nothing I actually couldn't believe how clean it was, it all go sand blasted and the inside was thoroughly washed until all water coming out ran clear, and it was re done with chassis on its side front end up and rear end up, so I do think that inside the rails the zinc would of stuck, I just want as much protection as possible.

XRIZLAX said:

Where did you get your chassis galved, just out of curiosity?
The bits you say havnt took or ash, your dad is most probably right with ash. Lots of crap come out during dipping and can't always be skimmed away.
You can use a mild grinder to smooth off any rough bits, but be carefully if you see sparks you have gone through the zinc and into the steel.
You can always touch up anybits with a zinc rich primer.
T wash is the way to go before painting. As for the inside chassis rails, no harm treating it with your choice of rustproofed etc.
As long as the chassis has been pickled in the acid long enough all the rust should be dissolved and the zinc fully coated, but nothing wrong with belt and braces.

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that's sounds exactly what my uncle said about the ash and rubbing it down with a medium pad, and soon as it sparks stop.

I was planning on T wash ,a good primer and a good hard wearing paint and cavity waxing the inside

would that be a good option or should I use dinitrol instead?