Paint galvanised chassis or not?

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Richie Box

Richie Box

New Member
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Location
Wrexham
I've just received my new Richards Chassis for my 90 rebuild, I've looked through the existing threads but was just wandering what the general view is - Paint it or not?
 
no offence was intended to fender owners with my previous comment btw, but i think au natural is better with the galvos :)
 
I prefer the black painted look but don't want it flaking off in 12 months or so! also would you wax oil the inside? I'm not rebuilding it for the looks. Thanks.
 
Mordant solution is the only way to paint over Galv.

Mordant and then a nice thick chassis paint.
Same for the inside even waxoyl wont stick to Galv youll have to mordant it first.
 
I painted the one I've bought for my Series 3, personally I don't like the shiney look.

Arrived like this.
b5d2f3e4.jpg


Then applied the mordant solution
ed439834.jpg


Primer
91b1c0e7.jpg


and finally satin black
158a84c9.jpg
 
There is a paint on the market that will paint directly onto galv. Can't remember what it's called but I know you can get it through comercial paint stores, and I don't mean Wickes!

Sent from my GT-I8160 using Tapatalk 2
 
Paint it. New galv looks great but wait till it got salt and **** on they go dull and nasty. Also the bright galv makes it look like the chassis is a feature.
 
I'd say yes for a couple of reasons, galvanising is a sacrificial protection method if you protect the zinc you will increase the life of the chassis.

Make sure you properly acid etch it before painting it or all the paint will flake off – painted zinc lasts very well because it won’t corrode like steel and start to lift the paint if it gets chipped.

If you paint it, it doesn’t look like a galvanised chassis – therefore reducing attention from thief’s!
 
If yer gonna do it yerself...

Instructions

  • 1Wash the galvanized steel with hot soapy water and rinse with hot water. Allow it to dry thoroughly.

  • 2Make a solution of 1 to 2 percent ammonia with water by mixing equal parts of water and ammonia. Household ammonia is approximately 5 to 10 percent ammonia so cutting the amount of ammonia in half should yield a solution that is strong enough to prepare the zinc for painting. Rinse with hot water and allow it to dry completely.

  • 3Use 240 grit sandpaper and sand the entire surface. If there are handles or parts that can be removed, remove them and sand each part separately. If the part cannot be removed because it is welded or riveted to the main piece, be sure to get the sandpaper into every crevice as well as you can.

  • 4Wipe the entire piece down with a tack cloth. A tack cloth is available in the painting section of most hardware stores. It is a cloth that has a sticky substance built in to pick up all the fine sanding dust to prepare surfaces for painting.

  • 5Spray metal primer over the entire surface. Work in smooth strokes from top to bottom to avoid runs, sags and drips. Allow it to dry completely according to the recommended drying time printed on the primer can label.

  • 6Inspect for runs, drips or sags. If needed, sand any imperfections and apply a coat of primer to the area.




 
Well after a lot of deliberation I've decided to paint it. Thanks for all your posts and the info provided, I'll post some pics soon.
 
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