P38A Fuel problem "continued"

Hi again all, still no start on my 96 diesel. We have now exhausted all known fixes that we picked up on this site - intank fuel pump fine, relay ok, fuse 39 ok, replaced the leak off pipes. And checked other suggestions on yesterdays post.

I guess the only thing left is the procedure to re sync the becm to the engine ecu. Nearest LR dearler is over a hundred miles away so I guess what I am looking for is the name of any alternative diagnostic software that will do the trick....Is autologic and testbook just for land rovers or do other people use it?

thanks again for all suggestions yesterday
Alan

where in Ireland are you? I'm in Kerry and I've a Faultmate MSV

Hi Spudh, thanks for response. I'm in Ballyhaunis, Co Mayo. Excuse my ignorance but what is the Faultmate MSV? And is it likely to find others with it?

thanks, Alan

Are your glowplugs ok, and the wiring to them? Are they getting juice? On mine they were knackered, and also the glow plug timing unit thingy had knackered too.

Hope you get it sorted soon
Jonathan

Jonathan, thanks, just replaced glowplugs and power fine also.

Your problem sounds EXCACTLY as the one my friend had with his DSE. I am not a diesel expert, but I understand there are two pumps, one in the tank to pump the diesel forward, and then one powered by the engine to make the high pressure for the injection.

Yes tnofno, two pumps. One in the tank running away nicely but the injection pump will not work from the power from the ecu. We have taken off one or two of the injectors and no diesel coming out. Strange thing is that when we plugged her in to an external power supply (computer - but didnt have any diagnostic equip) she fired up nicely so definitely working.

Next question is the power from the pins that supplies the fuel injection pump is as follows:

PIN 1 - 2.5v
PIN 2 - 2.5v
PIN 3 - 4.46v
PIN 4 - 2.26v
PIN 5 - Earth
PIN 6 - 5.02v

I have tried to find out if these are correct or if somehow the ECU is cutting the power to the fuel injection pump? Had a look on the RAVE cd cannot find any info

Any help on this side of things really appreciated?

thanks again all, Alan

something is wrong if you are measuring off the round connector under the manifold as one of them must be twelve volt for stop solenoid or your ignition was off will have a look on disk shortly and will try and come back to you later


NEW
pin 3 at the ecu should be showing 12v(ign on) that is the one for the stop solenoid ,looking down from the top ecu in its home position (you will have to remove the cover off the ecu wires)you in drivers seat(imagine)hooked end of plug should be to your right wire should be the third one in from left on the furthest row if this is not clear enough look at connectors on rave manual if you havnt got 12v on this wire it wont start if you have 12v there then trace the wire to the pump connector but the ecu or becm will cut power to this if it has had a "serious fault"according to the manual i wouldnt just rely on fuse 39 either there are lots of fuses to do with the working of the ecu the other wires on the pump plug will be for various other things mostly at default voltage untill the engine starts but i would concentrate on the stop solenoid feed first

Ian, Many thanks what you say makes alot of sense. Yes I was mesuring off the round connector under the manifold and confirm there is only about 4v at pin 3 (with a fully charged battery). Clearly, not enough to open the solenoid.

We also have the same voltage at the ECU SO It does now look most likely that there is a serious fault registered - so I guess its diagnostics to identify and clear....thanks again

ps, very tempted to fit a 12 volt to pin 3 to see will the solenoid open but suspect this is a silly thing to do! Or better still fit a 12v wire direct to the solenoid just to get it going! Any ideas?

thanks, Alan

dont get putting 12v to anything around there in case you do more damage some wires are low voltage next thing is to try lives and earths going in to ecu will try and narrow them down for you later and post back perseverence will overcome the problem if all lives are there diagnostic is the next step most modern machines will read the engine ecu fault codes as it is standard to bmw and vauxhall dont worry too much about dealer spec yet

NEW
have gone through as many docs as possible(keep going bleary eyed)
fuse 39 is only the tank pump
fuses 26/37/43/10/24/25 plus a few others are all linked to the engine ecu i would be tempted to check voltages at all fuses
first off though unplug the engine ecu and check all voltages and earths with the ign on at the plug note voltage and pin number if u can determin where all the earths are check the resistance to make sure they are a good earth if only 4v coming out of ecu it will be bad earth/low volts coming in (bad connection) or an internal fault
daft question have u tried the fuel inertia cut off

Thanks, understand fully your point about not shoving in 12v though after 7 days it is very tempting. Have tried the fuel inertia cut off, which is down and I presume this means it is not on.

Not sure where to unplug the engine ecu - Where abouts would you suggest checking the lives and earths going in to ecu?

"fuses 26/37/43/10/24/25 plus a few others are all linked to the engine ecu i would be tempted to check voltages at all fuses"

Sould I be getting 12v at all of these?

Thanks alot for your help, Alan

engine ecu behind battery pull the whole unit out there is a stainless clip holding the plug in place pry the clip open and pull the plug up from ecu at the cable end it will come up at an angle then release it out of the hook end there should be about 55 cables to check earths should all be the same colour,numbers will be on the plug printing is small though
all the fuses in the engine bay should be equal at both terminals(12v=12v or earth 0v =earth 0v) some wont be switched but the ones you want will be activated .should not be any other than 12v or earth in there all are blade fuses so you can probe both sides of the fuse from the top a bit of the metal will be there to test without removing I know this is a bit long winded
have u looked in the telephone book for a mobile diagnostic as i said before certain diagnostic machines are better than others but most will get into the engine side of things i have the autodiagnos and snap-on both read mine autodiagnos goes into a lot more than snap-on a lot of mobiles have these machines as they are not as dear as the the main ones for land rover shouldnt be any more than about £45

had the same fault on 38 found that the pump is fed through 2x multi plugs one plug per 3 cylinders check these are home properley and terminalls are clean (spotless) one i had problem with looked ok then spent 1 hour cleaning both plugs and connectors and all was well