P38A diesel engines

Ah right , I won't bother then , just seemed to be very mixed reviews on them , and thought you chaps would know best would be nice to get a bit more poke out of it tho

There’s loads of threads on here with serious slug issues and non starting. Soon as you find out it’s a powerbox tell them take it out
- either it now will start but is sluggish

- or it’s too late and it will light the mil lamp up like a Xmas tree without it and won’t start with it, new FIP time then. Don’t see so many these days.

Mines been on about 13 years and still going strong and the extra power is nice

brianp38dse said:

Mines been on about 13 years and still going strong and the extra power is nice

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You got me thinking Brian, dangerous I know, checked my invoice and my Superchip was fitted in 2005 so 17 years for me, no problems mines a manual by the way.

tomcat59alan said:

You got me thinking Brian, dangerous I know, checked my invoice and my Superchip was fitted in 2005 so 17 years for me, no problems mines a manual by the way.

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So is mine i think that makes quite a difference

brianp38dse said:

So is mine i think that makes quite a difference

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Yup,no wondering if it's going to put strain on the auto box.

tomcat59alan said:

You got me thinking Brian, dangerous I know, checked my invoice and my Superchip was fitted in 2005 so 17 years for me, no problems mines a manual by the way.

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Superchip is a remap not a power box is it not?

Bern768 said:

Ah right , I won't bother then , just seemed to be very mixed reviews on them , and thought you chaps would know best would be nice to get a bit more poke out of it tho

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Get the modulation exact, clean out the intercooler, check the turbo hoses and they go pretty well IMO, certainly quicker than any of my other 4 x 4's.

Datatek said:

Superchip is a remap not a power box is it not?

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That is correct Keith, never liked the idea of going down the power box road. It wasn't cheap but proper soldered in chip.

You sure your brakes aren’t binding or hubs /half shafts aren’t mush? (Particularly autoboxes)
Decent nick engine should be okay for nearly 200hp without too much issue. Far more if your mental enough just get it sweet first. Too much too quick you’ll go bang like (Stu?) @Grrrrrr will remember.

How far do you want to go?

Basic maintenance will get same power gain as a powerbox if not more but with other advantages. Then you can keep going. There’s a reason already there why it’s underpowered, sort that first.

End up painting it orange or minion coloured or something mental

You will need excellent cooling and nothing but contempt for your head to go further

All brakes are good and don't bind etc and seems to roll fine and drive ok just is so flat it's unreal , it's getting another engine tomorrow as the current one could blow up balloons with its crankcase pressure, will probably get that in and do the modulation etc and see what it's like

RangeRoller dt said:

You sure your brakes aren’t binding or hubs /half shafts aren’t mush? (Particularly autoboxes)
Decent nick engine should be okay for nearly 200hp without too much issue. Far more if your mental enough just get it sweet first. Too much too quick you’ll go bang like (Stu?) @Grrrrrr will remember.

How far do you want to go?

Basic maintenance will get same power gain as a powerbox if not more but with other advantages. Then you can keep going. There’s a reason already there why it’s underpowered, sort that first.

End up painting it orange or minion coloured or something mental

You will need excellent cooling and nothing but contempt for your head to go further

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View attachment 264230

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My memory is bad mate. Various people have had cracked heads after fitting Powerboxes but @brianp38dse seems to have gotten away with it. Maybe it depends on the brand or how much extra fuel it is setup to deliver. A remap is still the safest option.

@stustrong adjusted the wastegate by maybe half a turn if I recall correctly. I don't think he had a powerbox on it but might be wrong.

The bmw lot make their own power box pinning in to the FIP control with a variable resistor so you can turn it up and down. Same it does and cheap. EvryMod they call it. Not too dissimilar really from have an hotstart that doesn’t turn off, telling ecu it’s cold.

managed to get a fair bit done old one out and new one in just need to wire and plumb it back up tomorrow and sort the winch bumper out and make that fit before the rad etc go back in, getting the bell housing to line up on my own was bit of a pain but got there in the end

Bern768 said:

View attachment 264289 View attachment 264290managed to get a fair bit done old one out and new one in just need to wire and plumb it back up tomorrow and sort the winch bumper out and make that fit before the rad etc go back in, getting the bell housing to line up on my own was bit of a pain but got there in the end

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There's something about the auto and getting it back on properly so the oil pump gets drive. I am sure someone on here made an adaptor or something to stop the torque converter dropping forward? @pwood999 or @Bix?

.

Nialox said:

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Yeah?

I think Ratae made up something to hokd the torque converter in place. It needs to engage 3 things going back in but too far back is bad too. Apparently the measurements are on Ashcrofts website.

Grrrrrr said:

Yeah?

I think Ratae made up something to hokd the torque converter in place. It needs to engage 3 things going back in but too far back is bad too. Apparently the measurements are on Ashcrofts website.

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Mistakenly commented - fat fingers. Couldn't figure out how to delete - just ignore!