P38 rear left window button not working.

RR P38 1999 2.5 rear left window button works on the door, but not on the cabbybox. Fuses were fine. Should I look underneath the cabbybox cover?
Also, why do P38 constantly ask you to set the windows and sunroof?

Switches can fail, or get full of rubbish.
You need to reset the windows to make the warning go away. All the way down and hold all the way up and hold, you'll get a confirmation. Memory is lost when the battery is disconnected.
Same with the sunroof, all the way back and hold, then all the way up and hold, if i recall

kermit_rr said:

Switches can fail, or get full of rubbish.
You need to reset the windows to make the warning go away. All the way down and hold all the way up and hold, you'll get a confirmation. Memory is lost when the battery is disconnected.
Same with the sunroof, all the way back and hold, then all the way up and hold, if i recall

Click to expand...

Think it explains how to do this in owners handbook too

You will need to remove the switch pack and then dismantle it o get at the switches. You then need to cut the plastic retaining pips of the switch frame and take the switch apart then clean the contact pads. Put the switch back together and when the frame is in place use the point of a hot soldering iron or similar to swell the ends of the frame mounting pins to hold it in place. Test the switch pack before reinstalling.

Wot ^^^^^he said, done a couple of them now. A nylon tie wrap works well as a 'filler rod ' if you need more to melt. A cotton bud dipped in contact cleaner works well to clean the contact points. You can hold the switch in place with your fingers then plug it in to test before welding. I've got a large plastic croc clip which was handy to clamp it all together for the welding.

Update to conclude this thread: cleaning contact pads fixed the issue.

feyniriel said:

Also, why do P38 constantly ask you to set the windows and sunroof?

Click to expand...

I've wondered this for a while. My 2006 Lexus is the same.

I know car windows (I assume the P38 is the same) monitors the current draw of the motor, so if it reaches the end of travel, or you leave your arm in the hole, it detects the change in current draw and then stops the motor.

I suspect, that the values for the current draw change as things wear so it wants the values to be set after removing the battery clears the values. I would prefer if it had default values that it trims with time, but maybe this creates a risk of severed arms and heads?

It's so the BECM knows what the stall current actually is. When they are not set, it probably uses a default value which may not be appropriate depending on the physical resistance of the mechanism & sliders. . . . and probably better anti-trap detection.