p38 rear air springs hel please

hi folks
please dont go mad at me and i know this has probably been asked and told hundres of times before but would someboby happen to have or be able to tell me step by step on how to change the rear air bag springs on my p38?if anyones in leicestershire id be happy to assist and pay them to do it for me,also does the car need to be re calibrated as ive been told by a garage that it will and thats £160 alone,

ideally id like step by step instructions with photos if possible,many thanks gav.

hi,

have a gandar at range rovers dot net. A US site but has what you will need with pretty pictures.
You could have searched the forum though

sorry

Loads of posts on here recenlt on changing them.
No it shouldn't need calibrating as the height sensors manage the heights - not the springs, they only go where they are told. Wouldn't do any harm to check the height settings anyway.
With engine running, doors closed, heights should be (Wheelarch to wheel centre);
Standard 790mm +/- 7mm
Access 730mm +/- 7mm
High 830mm +/- 7mm
Low Profile* 770mm +/- 7mm
Extended* 850mm +/- 7mm
* You may not be able to check these*

** I MADE A MISTAKE !!!!*

The above heights are from the floor to the underside of the wheel arch, given nearly new tyres (18") and correct tyre pressures with the car on level ground.
If you want the dimensions from the wheel centre, just shout.:mil90:

thanks for that the problem i got is that i run my range on 24 inch wheels,any ideas now?picked up the springs today,had a look lastnight at the springs on car can see the bottom, r clip but not the top one and the air pipe,will i see these when i remove the bottom r clip and jack the body up away from the axle?

pimpedrange said:

thanks for that the problem i got is that i run my range on 24 inch wheels,any ideas now?picked up the springs today,had a look lastnight at the springs on car can see the bottom, r clip but not the top one and the air pipe,will i see these when i remove the bottom r clip and jack the body up away from the axle?

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If you look over the top of the rear wheel there is a small gap between the plastic wheel arch liner and the chassis member you can see where the airline enters the spring. The clip can also be seen. I pulled the clips out on mine with a piece of 1.5mm welding rod with a hook formed on the end. With one corner jacked up and supported on axle stands, the air pipe can be released by pressing the brass collar with blunt screwdriver and gently pulling the pipe. MAKE SURE YOU ARE WEARING GOGGLES WHEN YOU DO THIS IF YOU VALUE YOUR EYES Acknowledgements to Andy who gave me these tips. Remove the old spring, fit the new one jacking the axle up a little with a second jack if neccesary to locate the new spring, re-fit the airline (not easy) then start the engine and press the up button to take the car to max height, the spring should inflate, if not try jacking the axle up a little more until it does, ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD THE CAR REST ON A DEFLATED AIR SPRING. Once the spring has inflated, remove the jacks and the car should level itself out. Drop it down to normal height and see that all is Ok then do the other spring.

Have a look at my recent post "Changing Air Springs Ha Ha".
Gut the air pipe to the spring at the collet with a sharp wood chisel-there is enough slack in the tube and also you will have a nice clean tube to fit into the new fitting. The "Eye" of the "R" spring clip can be seen just to the right (On the r.h. side) of the air tube.
Regarding the height setting, irrespective of wheel size fitted, the height from the wheel CENTRE to the underside of the wheel arch at the Standard height setting, engine running, doors closed, on level ground should be 470mm +/- 7mm.......THIS IS THE RIGHT INFO THIS TIME!!!!!!!!

Irishrover said:

Have a look at my recent post "Changing Air Springs Ha Ha".
Gut the air pipe to the spring at the collet with a sharp wood chisel-there is enough slack in the tube and also you will have a nice clean tube to fit into the new fitting. The "Eye" of the "R" spring clip can be seen just to the right (On the r.h. side) of the air tube.
Regarding the height setting, irrespective of wheel size fitted, the height from the wheel CENTRE to the underside of the wheel arch at the Standard height setting, engine running, doors closed, on level ground should be 470mm +/- 7mm.......THIS IS THE RIGHT INFO THIS TIME!!!!!!!!

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Just a thought from a newbie, my air lines have a moulded in bulge about 15mm from the end which I think is there to help apply sufficient pressure to get the pipe back in. Cutting off flush with the collar would guarantee that the pipe will not go back in if it's like mine, you would have to cut off more to get rid of the bulge

The tubing used on the EAS plumbing is 6mm O.D. There are no "Bulges" moulded in to the tube, it's parallel all the way along and just comes straight off a coil when assembled. Necking takes place however which is caused by the pressure against the collet and "O" ring in the fittings over a period of time. Always preferable to start with a "New" section of tube, with a slight smear of washing up liquid on the end to aid refitting into the fitting. No need to chamfer the end either, just cut it square and free of burrs, preferably with a nylon tube cutter or Stanley knife.

Irishrover said:

The tubing used on the EAS plumbing is 6mm O.D. There are no "Bulges" moulded in to the tube, it's parallel all the way along and just comes straight off a coil when assembled. Necking takes place however which is caused by the pressure against the collet and "O" ring in the fittings over a period of time. Always preferable to start with a "New" section of tube, with a slight smear of washing up liquid on the end to aid refitting into the fitting. No need to chamfer the end either, just cut it square and free of burrs, preferably with a nylon tube cutter or Stanley knife.

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Strange, all my tubes have a well defined thickened collar which ends up about 4mm away from the brass entry ring when the pipes are re-fitted Never seen "necking" or that kind of thing on industrial pneumatics using the same tube.

The tube used on the EAS is known as Semi Rigid Nylon as it's capable of withstanding harsh conditions and higher pressure rated. The commonly used polyurethane tubing generally in use today is more pliable and less prone to deformation. We has loads of pneumatic equipment where I worked for the last 12 years which had polyurethane tubing and never deformed at the push in fitting collet assembly.
When I did my air springs a few weeks ago and replaced the originals, there were definately no bulges on any of the pipes to the springs, furthermore there are no bulges in sight at the valve box either.
Maybe the guy who did the bulging took a sickie on the day my car was built!!!:hysterically_laughi

Irishrover said:

The tube used on the EAS is known as Semi Rigid Nylon as it's capable of withstanding harsh conditions and higher pressure rated. The commonly used polyurethane tubing generally in use today is more pliable and less prone to deformation. We has loads of pneumatic equipment where I worked for the last 12 years which had polyurethane tubing and never deformed at the push in fitting collet assembly.
When I did my air springs a few weeks ago and replaced the originals, there were definately no bulges on any of the pipes to the springs, furthermore there are no bulges in sight at the valve box either.
Maybe the guy who did the bulging took a sickie on the day my car was built!!!:hysterically_laughi

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Makes no difference, the point is that if there is a collar or necking or call it what you will, then it will be neccessary to cut off beyond the collar or the tube will not go back in:mooning:

A five year old would know that!!-If that was a problem that warrants posting, then people shouldn't be doing the job as it's so obvious to anyone with even the slightest knowledge that a tube with a diameter larger than the fitting will not go in.
I have spent over 50years in engineering as a Machine Tool Builder and have never heard such ****e..even from a "Green" apprentice.

Irishrover said:

A five year old would know that!!-If that was a problem that warrants posting, then people shouldn't be doing the job as it's so obvious to anyone with even the slightest knowledge that a tube with a diameter larger than the fitting will not go in.
I have spent over 50years in engineering as a Machine Tool Builder and have never heard such ****e..even from a "Green" apprentice.

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As the guy who was asking for help didn't seem to know a lot I was pointing out what might be obvious to you but maybe not to him, if that causes you offence then so be it. I have worked on the design and repair of industrial pneumatic equipment since 1986 and have seen many times people (including me) try to do what on reflection is stupid. Better in my opinion to state the obvious than have someone struggle with an unseen problem.

OK I bow to your superior knowledge..I am full of bull**** and know absolutely nothing..If the guy is messing about with up to 160 psi of air pressure and doesn't know the pitfalls then he should be leaving it to someone else.
Never mind the design engineering, I have had years of tidying up after you guys have made the cock ups as I was employed at the sharp end.
Crap like this I cannot take.
If anyone needs advice PM me that's all I'll say.

Bye bye:multiply:

decided to change rear air springs this morning,took me an hour for drivers side and 25 min for the passenger side would have been quicker if didnt have to take my big wheels off as couldnt see over them to get to the top r clip.
also removed exhaust as fitting stainless system

When you have fitted the air springs start up the engine and leave a door open then when the compressor stops close the door and it will fill the bags with air, trying to do both together might give you a soft fault, ask me how i know