P38A P38 Power Loss when driving and difficulty to start again

Hi All

Having just had the suspension rebuilt it is onto the next problem with my 2001 4.0 V8 P38

I have an intermittent fault with power loss and then eventually the engine stopping, after approx 30 minutes of keep trying to start it will eventually fire up, it seems to turn over ok but just wont fire, but after a while it will eventually fire up. 11 miles the other day and broke down twice but both times it eventually did start.

I have been told it is possibly the crank sensor, could it be this or is there any other possibilities causing this? Is there any way to test if it is the crank sensor that is at fault?

I dont know if it is linked but i am also having a problem with battery drain, after a couple of days the battery is totally dead, alternator and battery have been tested but both are ok.

Any help or advice is much appreciated.

Sound like crank sensor they are normally ok cold but start playing up as they get warm,
is you car parked near any wireless items eg routers, weather stations, door bells and the like as they have a habit of waking up the Becm and not letting the car go to sleep, if this is your problem then this is the cheep answer or just fit to rule it out as to the cause of the drain.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rf-reciever-work-round.258096/

and this is the best I can see on ebay atm to fit
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC10A12V...var=572015149459&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Can confirm with @brianp38dse that this workaround is "golden". Did mine last week, has been wonderful ever since.
Better than paying £££'s to LR for a "fix" to their faulty product.

where are you located ?

Any chance of seeing if any fault codes are triggered?

Hi all

Just an update on the progress, problem has been found and fixed on both problems.

We found the fuel pump was the issue - this has now been replaced and working fine. We did the cut a hole in the floor fix which is much easier than dropping the fuel tank out. One point to note make sure you get the correct fuel pump housing easy to visually check the pipes in the top - i nearly made this mistake.

On the second issue of battery drain as pointed out above it is something in our area waking up the BECM - i have therefore disconnected the aerial which is located behind the drivers side passenger seat and all good just means i have to stand next to the car to open or close it but rather this than a constant flat battery.

DanClarke said:

Can confirm with @brianp38dse that this workaround is "golden". Did mine last week, has been wonderful ever since.
Better than paying £££'s to LR for a "fix" to their faulty product.

Click to expand...

Think Marty will soon have an alternative to LR at a fraction of the price.

Sophia2007 said:

On the second issue of battery drain as pointed out above it is something in our area waking up the BECM - i have therefore disconnected the aerial which is located behind the drivers side passenger seat and all good just means i have to stand next to the car to open or close it but rather this than a constant flat battery.

Click to expand...

I did that initially but it still burnt out another set of door locks. Do brian's fix or fix it properly or you'll be replacing lock actuator motors next.

How does doing this burn out the door locks?

All i am doing is having to stand next to the car to unlock on the keyfob because i don't have the range i used to for the keyfob button.

Got me worried now

Sophia2007 said:

How does doing this burn out the door locks?

All i am doing is having to stand next to the car to unlock on the keyfob because i don't have the range i used to for the keyfob button.

Got me worried now

Click to expand...

Removing the aerial may not stop the RF receiver picking up and responding to stray signals, it can then end up keeping the lock motor more or less continuously energised. Either do Brian's fix, or fit the later MK3 RF receiver.