p38 key code lockout stuck on...

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Also could be MGF microswitches. I have a selection where some of them have the 2-rod arrangement, and others are a block of three. Most of them have wires disappearing inside, but couple have soldered terminals so clearly replacements. Also some of the MGF latches have same connector arrangement as P38, but others have an extra connector for the CDL ground. Either way the bits are good for repairing P38 latches. I now have good & bad pile of motors & switches !!

Also ordered some new microswitches from RS last night (6A for CDL & 0.1A for the other two).

Still looking for a small puller to swap the P38 spinner onto the new motors I found. Tried a modeller's puller, but it was too small for diameter of the plastic bits.

View attachment 277386

Early p38 ones have a separate ground wire plug with a single black wire.
 
The separate CDL ground is present on later P38's.
The 6 amp rating is for 240 volts AC, depending on which switches you have ordered, they will be 1 or 2 amps rated for DC per the manufacturers data sheet. I use the higher current ones for all 3 switches, I see no point in using the lower current types:)

Separate ground on my '95 model and the passenger door had never been apart before. Maybe it was Land Rover using whatever was to hand.
 
Back
Top