P38A P38 EAS valve block/compressor rebuild kits etc. ? Best

Hi
I have the usual EAS problems on a 1999 P38. I am resisting the temptation to put it on springs in view of the advice on the Forum !
I am a little uncertain what bits I need to buy in advance to rebuild the valve block etc and the compressor (the air bags have already been replaced). Also I have searched and searched but cannot find any advice as to a reliable maker or supplier of parts for the rebuild . Could anyone advise please : -
1. What exact bits should I buy please ?
Presumably: - Valve block "O" ring kit ( ? Nitrile or Viton?)
Diaphragm rebuild kit (is there only one diaphragm to rebuild ?)
New Air Dryer ?
Compressor seals and cylinder
Anything else ?
2. Who are good and reliable makers or suppliers of the above ?? I would prefer to get everything form one source as it would be simpler. There seem to be quite a number of people but some seem to be better than others judging by comments on this Forum.

Wammers and Datatek (and others) have been incredibly helpful with advice in the past (Thank you again) but I cannot seem to access Wammers "How To". Sorry for my incompetence but how do I access this please ?
Many thanks in anticipation.

Thanks very much for the link Wammers. Normal fantastic service !!!

Hi
Is the Compressor seal & liner & valve block O ring & diaphragm kit sold by X8rltd (Kieran Mannings) on EBay for £39.99 any good ? Or would it be more sensible to go to one of the main Land/Range Rover suppliers (if so, which one ?) and buy the kit they sell ?
Thanks.

Or what about the "Original Landyair" (Simon of Mercia Air) kit ? But it seems to use silcone (red) seals ?
Any diplomatic comments or experiences on any of the kits would be gratefully received !

These were recommended to me from the place i just bought a new compressor from. They use them to refurb valve blocks.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321451232414?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

If you are doing the compressor along with valve block fit a new cylinder along with new seal. The O'ring prices on Ebay are outrageous when you consider they cost just pence each from a factor.

I have used two compressor kits from X8 on separate cars with good results.

Thanks very much Wammers and allanw and martynv8. I had come to the conclusion that probably the X8 kit was the better one of the 2. It certainly seems that Viton is better than silicone for the O rings. Yes they must be very cheap if bought separately but you have to know which ones you need in advance (I dont !).
X8 also seem to give good instructions which gives confidence for a novice like me !
I cant seem to find any other kits from any of the main suppliers so it looks as if X8 is the one to go for. Unless any one else has any suggestions ......
Thanks again.

confusedp38 said:

Thanks very much Wammers and allanw and martynv8. I had come to the conclusion that probably the X8 kit was the better one of the 2. It certainly seems that Viton is better than silicone for the O rings. Yes they must be very cheap if bought separately but you have to know which ones you need in advance (I dont !).
X8 also seem to give good instructions which gives confidence for a novice like me !
I cant seem to find any other kits from any of the main suppliers so it looks as if X8 is the one to go for. Unless any one else has any suggestions ......
Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Used to be a seller of the O'rings on Ebay full set for just over seven quid. At that they would be making 75% profit. The ones on there now are just taking the piss.

An update and also a question please for knowledgeable EAS people.
Got an O ring kit from X8. Expensive kit ,yes, but clear details as to which O rings were which. Rebuilt the valve block thanks to the very clear instructions in the PaulP38A valve block rebuild guide. Brilliant. Thanks.

Question : Inside the solenoids is what looks like a hard rubber end on the tip of each solenoid plunger. This bears upon a cone inside the plastic body and I assume is meant to stop air escaping ? Each of the plungers had a round mark where the cone had been imprinted. Surely the sealing at this point is vital to the working of the EAS system ? Should these tips be replaced ? Can they be replaced ? Does it matter ? Or would you have to buy complete new plungers or solenoids (which I think are expensive ?). In practice is there ever a problem with sealing at this point ? If so what would be the symptoms ?
Thanks for any input.

Before you rebuild the block, make sure it's clean. I have an ultra sound bath but good results have been attained by the use of a dish washer.

confusedp38 said:

An update and also a question please for knowledgeable EAS people.
Got an O ring kit from X8. Expensive kit ,yes, but clear details as to which O rings were which. Rebuilt the valve block thanks to the very clear instructions in the PaulP38A valve block rebuild guide. Brilliant. Thanks.

Question : Inside the solenoids is what looks like a hard rubber end on the tip of each solenoid plunger. This bears upon a cone inside the plastic body and I assume is meant to stop air escaping ? Each of the plungers had a round mark where the cone had been imprinted. Surely the sealing at this point is vital to the working of the EAS system ? Should these tips be replaced ? Can they be replaced ? Does it matter ? Or would you have to buy complete new plungers or solenoids (which I think are expensive ?). In practice is there ever a problem with sealing at this point ? If so what would be the symptoms ?
Thanks for any input.

Click to expand...

Yes, you are correct. On my old valve block I had to sand one with some very fine emery cloth in order to get a decent seal. In the endI decided to keep it as backup and got an old one off the bay, possibly from p38symilise.

Thanks. However, apart from the obvious sign (i.e. that they leak) how does one know that the plungers need replacing when you rebuild the valve block ? It seems to me that the sealing at this point is very important. Just replacing all the O rings may still leave you with minute leaks at the ends of the plungers where they seal against the cones ?

Let us know when you find a method. Only thing I can think of is to swap it for a known good one and see if that fixes it. Kurt Johnson might be able to help there.

Grrrrrr said:

Let us know when you find a method. Only thing I can think of is to swap it for a known good one and see if that fixes it. Kurt Johnson might be able to help there.

Click to expand...

+1,

Guess you could make a length of airline attached to a bike pump or similar and see if it allows air past?