P38A P38 eas issues

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Stanleysteamer said:
Not a friggin specialist is he then?
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They were supposed to be a reputable land rover specialist , I took my discovery 3 there a few times.

They said the P38 is a specialty of it's own and neither of them had any experience of them. Threw a big spanner in the works as I would like to preserve this car which is quite hard with companies like that . Then again I'd rather them tell me that than destroying something.
 
LR-hobbs said:
There's enough guides and YouTube videos I should be fine, and t I be honest this forum has helped me more than anything.
Better than my local landy specialist who refused to work on my car , due to " no experience with p38s"
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Last time I went for parts from my Landy dealer the kid pointed out the car was considerably older than he was and he generally only sees JLR cars still under warranty because the dealer prices are so high. Fair point!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Last time I went for parts from my Landy dealer the kid pointed out the car was considerably older than he was and he generally only sees JLR cars still under warranty because the dealer prices are so high. Fair point!
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Dealer can be three times if not more than say all makes 4x4 , the dealer part isn't going to last three times as long
 
LR-hobbs said:
Dealer can be three times if not more than say all makes 4x4 , the dealer part isn't going to last three times as long
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Strangely the original parts seemed to last a very long while.

I think he was referring to the labour but yes, their parts prices take the urine. Jaguar used to have an owners club card where they gave discount for old Jaguars and did deals every so often so you stayed with them and got original parts for not much more than pattern ones. Great idea until they ran out of parts for my S-type. Not sure they still do it but Land Rover could learn from that. Support your enthusiasts!
 
pwood999 said:
Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump power.

It's all in the System Info Doc (see technical archive), but this diagram explains what happens when the pump is filling the tank.

Also do it with driver's doo open, so the ECU doesn't try to raise yet, and all the air goes into the tank.

View attachment 345383
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Hi mate I'd just like to thank you,
I've rebuilt the valve block and after some fiddling around with a split compressor pipe it air up extremely quick .

Cheers 👍👍
 
pwood999 said:
So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump.

Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The solenoid is the one top left in that picture, and is the only one in the system that uses 12V directly (in parallel with pump wires).

View attachment 345389
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When I took the diaphragm end off the disk style seal had torn and nearly all the o rings were flat.

The only issue I have now is when I leave the car and pull the relay out it airs down over the course of a few hours/overnight , so I do believe there is an air bag leak.

Sprayed soapy water on the air line fittings in the valve block and no bubbling, slight bubble on the blue compressor air line nothing major
 
If compressor line is bubbling with system off, it's most likely NRV-1 allowing tank air to escape via the drier. The more the tank empties overnight, then the pump has to work harder in the moring to fill it & raise the car.
 
pwood999 said:
If compressor line is bubbling with system off, it's most likely NRV-1 allowing tank air to escape via the drier. The more the tank empties overnight, then the pump has to work harder in the moring to fill it & raise the car.
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no sorry my mistake, it bubbles only with the compressor running . Doesn't bubble with it off.
 
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