P38 EAS issues airloss/self selecting height/height hunting

Sorry RRDT, I was pißßing about... I do like the Freelander 2, a client of mine has one. I recently fitted some slotted/drilled disks and EDC pads onto it for her. EDC? EBC ? Can never remember...

I do own a Volvo tho'...

I'm out, catch you later

So a little update:

I have started her many times and she now starts wherever I left her off. Putting the original relay in seemed to cure it.
I have set all the heights according to wammers height settings by tape measure. Which have now set some of my across the axles figures to greater than 5 units.
Also, triple checked tire pressures today. Went for a short drive and she did seem a little more compliant but more testing will be needed before I can confirm that shes cured.

While setting my heights today I thought about what someone does when they install Arnott Gen3 bags? These are supposed to offer extra lift but how is that done if the height settings must be so exact? What about ball joint wear?arm bushings? Or different brands of tires,age,treadlife? Even finding a suitable location for calibration was not super easy.. Considering I only have a 7mm margin of error,I looked for the absolute flattest spot I could find. What about a bent trailing arm? Or a slightly tweaked frame? Or a bent quarter?

A lot of these come to mind because I actually use my Rover for going places where many lesser vehicles would struggle or just plain not make it. I likely suffer from a little of everything I listed above... I often find myself on the trails with some really built rigs with 35in tires or larger. The result of this is that Ive bashed my diffs, body, axles, joints, had my bumpers dragging, ripped off my exhaust tips, Ive been snatched many times, and Ive snatched and anchored and towed it all....weve really been through a lot. I know shes not perfect under there and could use pretty much everything after many tough off road miles. There's just too many variables...I may never figure this out if shes this temperamental.

I love older cars because they give so much less fuss than the newer ones. I was really hoping that the EAS was going to be easier to work with than this..

The ride heights don't change with Arnott 3 but you can get greater articulation if your shocks and other components are modified to allow it.

Don't think anyone here has done it but more common in the States and on RR.net.

Grrrrrr said:

The ride heights don't change with Arnott 3 but you can get greater articulation if your shocks and other components are modified to allow it.

Don't think anyone here has done it but more common in the States and on RR.net.

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RR.net is a rubbish place to be so thats what I think about that Id much rather hang out here..

My ultimate plan was to get the EAS working well and reliable with all factory equipment. And then get some Arnott Gen3s for the extra articulation(not lift,good to know).. Then I could keep the known good factory Dunlops as spares for the trail.

Okay, so the only way to truly lift the p38 is by tricking it into thinking everything is normal. And so we must play its game by its own rules then.....I see now, thanks for your insight

Dont forget you are slowly rebuilding the car, so as you do you can leave alone knowing it should do its job...... But then again........








It's........













LANDROVER.....

P38Rover said:

RR.net is a rubbish place to be so thats what I think about that Id much rather hang out here..

My ultimate plan was to get the EAS working well and reliable with all factory equipment. And then get some Arnott Gen3s for the extra articulation(not lift,good to know).. Then I could keep the known good factory Dunlops as spares for the trail.

Okay, so the only way to truly lift the p38 is by tricking it into thinking everything is normal. And so we must play its game by its own rules then.....I see now, thanks for your insight

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Arnott Gen 3's are a waste of time unless you are into serious off roading. Gen 2's are very good though.

Datatek said:

Arnott Gen 3's are a waste of time unless you are into serious off roading. Gen 2's are very good though.

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Iam getting tired of being rescued by the Jeeps and Yotas with 40s...My next mod will likely be an electric winch so I might be able to find some use for those Gen3s.

But none of that will be getting done if I cannot get her to behave on the streets. Iam honestly starting to lose hope for the first time in LandRover ownership.

P38Rover said:

Iam getting tired of being rescued by the Jeeps and Yotas with 40s...My next mod will likely be an electric winch so I might be able to find some use for those Gen3s.

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Fair enough, parts are available to adapt the height sensors for the extended range.

Is it true that I can remove the upper valve solenoid covers and valves with the valve block in place and pressurized? I believe I read somewhere that the valve bodies are not held against high pressure air so I assume I can remove them and the airbags will stay where it is and I can work on it in situ? OR maybe Iam just making stuff up because I dont want to take it all completely apart again? haha

P38Rover said:

Is it true that I can remove the upper valve solenoid covers and valves with the valve block in place and pressurized? I believe I read somewhere that the valve bodies are not held against high pressure air so I assume I can remove them and the airbags will stay where it is and I can work on it in situ? OR maybe Iam just making stuff up because I dont want to take it all completely apart again? haha

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Try it and find out. It's what is known as learning by experience. It maybe a good idea to wear some goggles.

wammers said:

Try it a find out. It's what is known as learning by experience. It maybe a good idea to wear some goggles.

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Lol for the last couple days Ive been looking for "this thing I read on the internet" but cant seem to find it. So I now believe maybe my laziness made it up..

P38Rover said:

Lol for the last couple days Ive been looking for "this thing I read on the internet" but cant seem to find it. So I now believe maybe my laziness made it up..

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The coil can be removed the solenoid valves certainly cannot.

Tomorrow I will go for some more testing and if she still wants to dance... I will be tearing it down to check my work and swapping NRV locations again and swapping over a spare unknown condition driver pack.

P38Rover said:

Tomorrow I will go for some more testing and if she still wants to dance... I will be tearing it down to check my work and swapping NRV locations again and swapping over a spare unknown condition driver pack.

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Dancing at front end on coming to a halt is mostly caused by front heights being different side to side. Every time the car speed drops to 1 MPH both front valves open to equalise pressure across the axle and the front drops. Then if still stopped when the brake pedal is released the front will rise. That is why the fronts should be within 2 bits side to side + or - 7 MM in measurement. Rears side to side don't matter as much. But if you have a leaking high pressure inlet valve and weak solenoid seals on the front allowing air to be forced past them that dancing will be exaggerated. You saying the car rises at the front when stood and switched off gives the game away.

wammers said:

Dancing at front end on coming to a halt is mostly caused by front heights being different side to side. Every time the car speed drops to 1 MPH both front valves open to equalise pressure across the axle and the front drops. Then if still stopped when the brake pedal is released the front will rise. That is why the fronts should be within 2 bits side to side + or - 7 MM in measurement. Rears side to side don't matter as much. But if you have a leaking high pressure inlet valve and weak solenoid seals on the front allowing air to be forced past them that dancing will be exaggerated. You saying the car rises at the front when stood and switched off gives the game away.

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Yeah you replied to me in another thread a few days ago and also recommended that I check both fronts and inlet valves. Since then Ive been searching for this made up procedure for taking the solenoid valves apart in situ

Just to clarify are we talking about the inlet valve solenoid or NRV 1? I wasnt sure so I was just gonna do both because I hope to not have to take this thing apart again haha

P38Rover said:

Yeah you replied to me in another thread a few days ago and also recommended that I check both fronts and inlet valves. Since then Ive been searching for this made up procedure for taking the solenoids apart in situ

Just to clarify are we talking about the inlet valve solenoid or NRV 1? I wasnt sure so I was just gonna do both because I hope to not have to take this thing apart again haha

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Inlet valve solenoid seal. Check all the solenoid seals for crusty white deposits from drier media break up. Clean it off the rubber and the seats.

wammers said:

Inlet valve solenoid seal. Check all the solenoid seals for crusty white deposits from drier media break up.

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Okay thanks for the confirmation! Iam going to go to sleep now,while you all are getting up! I will update tomorrow after I inspect everything. Should I even bother swapping drive packs?