P38 DSE engine replacement

Hi all, I am new to this forum. Just bought a DSE with a cylinder head problem. Took off the inlet manifold and found number 5 cylinder full of water. Removed head and low and behold it was cracked in several places.
I have now bought a complete BMW 525TD in good running order with MOT for less than the price of a replacement cylinder head. My plan is to swop the engine.
I have pulled the engine out of the BMW. I am now removing the rest of the engine from the rangie.
I dont plan to disturb the BM engine at all, just drop it in and connect it up.
Questions:
The manual says to pull the rangie engine and auto box as a complete assemby. Will the engine come off the gearbox and out of the car without removing the gearbox? It looks like the sump will hit the axle, I can always take off the sump?
When the new engine goes in will I need to do anything with resyncing ECU-pump etc? If so what kit do I need.
Any pitfalls in my approach?

Suggestions/advice welcome

Hi:welcome2:

If you search around on here you will find some info on this

you will need to swap the sumps and pickup pipe

If you jack up the motor and prop the body then lower the axle down, this should give you enough room.

got the sump off mine yesterday with the engine still in the car with that technique


beleive you will need to use your RR ecu if not then you will need a synch, irish rover is the man for that info, he was around earlier.

good luck with it

Re auto box

i took a gems 4.6 engine out and left the gearbox in

am planning on kleaving the gearbox in the one i am taking the engine out of at the moment but that is a manual one

Good luck,

what mileage had the motor done

The motor in the DSE is showing 190K, but was changed at 70k. Not sure if it was new a replacement or recon. I am assuming it had done 120k.
The motor out of the BMW has done 126K. I may have problems just down the road, but changing the engine is a lot cheaper than replacing the head!

I have now decided to take the sump off the engine before removing it from the gearbox. It then looks like all will be clear to pull the engine off the gearbox. The sump has to be swopped onto the BMW engine anyway.

I read on here that if you disconnect the battery then you may have to resync. I have already removed the battery
Surely just disconnecting the battery should not result in any electronic problems or am I being stupid? This is after all Land rover electronics!

They tuck some bolts all over the place re the sump so dont beat it with a hammer until u have had a good look round

there is one from the front n/s near the engine oil cooler pipes horizontal into sump

4 from the bell housing horizontally through

obvious ones from underneath, plus 2 up through the odd shaped bit on o/s rear of sump
plus 2 up in slots on bell housing

good luck i jacked vehicle up and propped it up on body then, took wheels off and lowered axle down
also put on front of body just in case

get it high as you can, mine was at full lift of the air jack on the ramp

and sump just cleared

I have now removed the engine, swopped the sump and oil pick up and fitted back in.
A few tips if anyone is doing the same:
No need to remove the sump as I fist thought - Thanks Cavey
When pulling the RR engine out without the gearbox (Auto in my case). Lift the car up as high as possible on the passenger side with the drivers side still on the ground. I went up until the passenger side front wheel was just off the ground. At this height you can pull the engine off the gearbox and the sump will clear the axle.
Before you pull the engine off the gearbox make sure you unbolt the torque converter (I didn't I pulled the converter out with the engine - transmission fluid goes everywhere). The converter is held to the flywheel with 3 bolts accessible through the rubber bung in the right hand side of the plate that covers the bell housing undo each bolt, rotate the engine then undo the next.
The BMW engine that I used came out of a 5 speed manual. Therefore i needed to swop the flywheel off my RR and attach the torque converter adapter. Mine did not fit, the counter bore in the end of the crankshaft is different, not sure if this is because it was a manual or what. I ended up modifying the torque converter adapter to make it fit.:blabla:
Engine is in now just got to bolt all the bits back on - easier said than done - will keep you posted.
Just thought, if using a BMW car engine check the threads in the block where the aircon compressor bolts on. Mine were full of rust and I had to tap them out before I could get any bolts in. Easier done out of the car than in.

well done solasolution

still got mine half out of the diesel one

i have a auto box in my project motor which i need to fir a BMW engine to.
so when i get round to that i might well be Pming u for some top tips

been working away, so not had any time at mine last week or so

hopefully this week, but got becm & fusebox faults on the one the missus is using to fix first

Good post Solasolution :clap2::clap2:
Just the sort of details that are needed on the forum.....Well done !!!!

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