P38 Monkey
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 638
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- Cambridge
Just had the coolant changed on my 1997 4.0SE.
They did a pretty good job getting the air out of the rad, and after a few trips I finished the job with a bit of fiddling.
After the event, I found from this forum that you can easily clear that tube by squeezing the top hose with the reservoir cap off.
Then replace the cap and let it sort itself out over the next few runs.
That's if there is air in the rad, and if there isn't, you don't need to do it anyway.
How very LR to make you ensure that the radiator top bleed tube is clear.
Any other maker would have fixed the problem, and re-engineered things so it didn't ever happen again.
The LR solution is to put a bold warning in the workshop manual that if you don't blow through the bleed tube (and don't worry, anti-freeze is not THAT poisonous) you will likely seize the engine up...
Epic.
They did a pretty good job getting the air out of the rad, and after a few trips I finished the job with a bit of fiddling.
After the event, I found from this forum that you can easily clear that tube by squeezing the top hose with the reservoir cap off.
Then replace the cap and let it sort itself out over the next few runs.
That's if there is air in the rad, and if there isn't, you don't need to do it anyway.
How very LR to make you ensure that the radiator top bleed tube is clear.
Any other maker would have fixed the problem, and re-engineered things so it didn't ever happen again.
The LR solution is to put a bold warning in the workshop manual that if you don't blow through the bleed tube (and don't worry, anti-freeze is not THAT poisonous) you will likely seize the engine up...
Epic.
