P38 Cold Idle Issue

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@Nialox it is probably a long shot not relevant but where the fuel pipe intake is just before the fuel filter where pipe is thicker rubber I found that it was split in places (see photo) allowing air in. As say long shot but might be adding to the problem.
 

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Two months later the car is sorted!

Took it to the local Indy. Nothing came up on diagnostics. Turns out the timing chain was so slack the pump was pretty badly out of timing. Tensioners worn too. It was apparently too far gone to even adjust timing.

Anyway that and the combination of the fuel mass flywheel on its way out made me come to the decision to just be gentle on it for as long as possible until it dies.

However by chance when buying a new motorbike (happened to be from another landy indy). Managed to make a deal with them for a Significantly Lower Milage engine, low miles flywheel and new clutch fitted for £750!!!

Car is completely transformed. Smooth as anything. Flywheel/clutch is perfect. Starts hot and cold on a dime.

So that’s another P38 kept on the road!!!

now just to fix the LH-F door sensor which now reads open 24/7!!!

Been looking into PSI power boxes too. I’m not worried about MpG or added power. I’m concerned as to how much strain it puts on the engine. I’m not a fast driver and I rarely floor it. I’d just like a bit more grunt. But if it’s going to accelerate engine wear significantly ill stay clear.

Cheers
 
Nialox said:
Two months later the car is sorted!

Took it to the local Indy. Nothing came up on diagnostics. Turns out the timing chain was so slack the pump was pretty badly out of timing. Tensioners worn too. It was apparently too far gone to even adjust timing.

Anyway that and the combination of the fuel mass flywheel on its way out made me come to the decision to just be gentle on it for as long as possible until it dies.

However by chance when buying a new motorbike (happened to be from another landy indy). Managed to make a deal with them for a Significantly Lower Milage engine, low miles flywheel and new clutch fitted for £750!!!

Car is completely transformed. Smooth as anything. Flywheel/clutch is perfect. Starts hot and cold on a dime.

So that’s another P38 kept on the road!!!

now just to fix the LH-F door sensor which now reads open 24/7!!!

Been looking into PSI power boxes too. I’m not worried about MpG or added power. I’m concerned as to how much strain it puts on the engine. I’m not a fast driver and I rarely floor it. I’d just like a bit more grunt. But if it’s going to accelerate engine wear significantly ill stay clear.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Not if it's reprogrammed properly. ;)
 
Nialox said:
Two months later the car is sorted!

Took it to the local Indy. Nothing came up on diagnostics. Turns out the timing chain was so slack the pump was pretty badly out of timing. Tensioners worn too. It was apparently too far gone to even adjust timing.

Anyway that and the combination of the fuel mass flywheel on its way out made me come to the decision to just be gentle on it for as long as possible until it dies.

However by chance when buying a new motorbike (happened to be from another landy indy). Managed to make a deal with them for a Significantly Lower Milage engine, low miles flywheel and new clutch fitted for £750!!!

Car is completely transformed. Smooth as anything. Flywheel/clutch is perfect. Starts hot and cold on a dime.

So that’s another P38 kept on the road!!!

now just to fix the LH-F door sensor which now reads open 24/7!!!

Been looking into PSI power boxes too. I’m not worried about MpG or added power. I’m concerned as to how much strain it puts on the engine. I’m not a fast driver and I rarely floor it. I’d just like a bit more grunt. But if it’s going to accelerate engine wear significantly ill stay clear.

Cheers
Click to expand...

That should have showed up on timing modulation. Odd, chain stretch normally affects car when hot and shows over 90%. Maybe someone had tried moving the pump slightly to adjust for it so it was way too low when cold.
 
Grrrrrr said:
That should have showed up on timing modulation. Odd, chain stretch normally affects car when hot and shows over 90%. Maybe someone had tried moving the pump slightly to adjust for it so it was way too low when cold.
Click to expand...
From cold, in my recent experience, the M51 will start with the modulation anywhere between 6% and 80%. I have just retimed the project car FIP, it was close to 78% hot and was nigh on impossible to start, now at 50.31% hot, so far it has started easily hot or cold, just a couple of turns hot.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
What mileage is the new to you engine?
you could be back to needing new water pump etc :(
Click to expand...


110k - on the new engine

Here’s the good part they put my water pump, new tensioners, pulleys, belts, glow plugs etc on the new engine. All of which had less than 1000miles on them.

So we should be good!

I can’t describe what a difference the flywheel and clutch has made too. It’s a different car
 
I should also point out they put my significantly newer FIP on the new engine so the timing and setting up of that should also be perfect
 
One last thing.

second time this has happened. Doesn’t happen in the morning but in the afternoon. When I go to start the car (cold). I get a alternator error message and battery warning light. That instantly disappears the second I move forwards.

move driven it probably 20 times since the swap and it’s happened twice. Beep and then disappear
 
Next thing. Purchased a tuning box off a friend of a friend (also with a cast intake - R reg)

comes with a male and female connector for the FIP. And then a vac line that T junctions into the MAF vac line.

Drive home, fitted the box (with engine warm - ouch) and turned on. Fired up but settled down into an extremely lumpy idle and did not run right at all. Worked fine on the other car.

should I of done it cold? Or disconnected battery?
 
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