P38 auto box shift issues

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jetcarguy

jetcarguy

New Member
Posts
3
Location
staffordshire
Hi All
Here's a strange one, hope you can help and throw a few ideas my way
RR 2000 W plate 4 litre auto starts no issues at all.
Select all gears smooth small amount of pressure on gear lever towards driver
apply index finger pressure to gear lever towards passenger side in park or neutral or any selected
position D D1 D2 D3 D4 or reverse or attempt to cross the gate into low box all vehicle electrics die immediately engine stops apply same pressure on lever towards driver all electrics come back on and you can restart the vehicle as normal and drive?
You can also do the same above with just the ignition on without engine running?
Both the car and I need help Thanks in advance:(
 
thinking-face_1f914.png I would be straight into the gear lever selector unit looking for any shorting between contacts
Has any liquid been poured into the unit by accident?
Then I'd check the xyz switch on the side if the gearbox for water ingress or physical fault.
It seems like your getting a short from somewhere... ?
 
Last edited:
Mark Piercy said:
View attachment 189489 I would be straight into the gear lever selector unit looking for any shorting between contacts
Has any liquid been poured into the unit by accident?
Then I'd check the xyz switch on the side if the gearbox for water ingress or physical fault.
It seems like your getting a short from somewhere... ?
Click to expand...
As above, lever movement shorting something out. Surprised that no fuse blows though.
 
Thanks for the info fellow members.
selector striped cleaned housing plugs leads checked for chaffing started vehicle up with all
plugs and harness removed from around selector same problem
removed split pin and washer and pin. cable free from selector
No ignition or lights both dash, interior and instrument cluster
checked plugs with meter no lives at all anywhere as if you disconnected battery lead.
Selector cable cleat earthed all electrics back on starts and runs perfectly
No faults displayed on dash, all gears selected through whole range no issues ?
Does any member know if this is normal thanks.
 
So.... A little confused,
It all works when you earth the selector cable cleat??
It does sound as if the main earth leads need cleaning and some copper grease.
If that's the case I would trace every lead to and from the battery, the alternator and every earth and other live lead. Including leads to and from the fuse box. :D
 
Morning Mark
Has me beat been in the game spannering over 30 years never came across anything as weird as this
If you run a wire from cable to earth
(Earth being socket cap bolt on selector housing) woks perfectly no issues or faults show up on dash selects and drives ok engine earth from alternator to chassis battery to chassis will look at fuse boxes today
 
It happens that's true. Buy don't forget our new "modern" cars are running computers on low voltage currents with lead free solder and are as sensitive as duck!! :p
Any dodgy earth throws the lot into turmoil... Alternators and batteries are a favourite as you know:rolleyes:
 
Mark Piercy said:
It happens that's true. Buy don't forget our new "modern" cars are running computers on low voltage currents with lead free solder and are as sensitive as duck!! :p
Any dodgy earth throws the lot into turmoil... Alternators and batteries are a favourite as you know:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Nowt wrong with lead free solder, it always contained tin, it just has more tin now, used it for decades.
 
True, but there are a lot of case we're the solder fractures and causes intermittent signal loss on sensitive circuits.
The abs units from a lot of cars mud 2000's have a lot of solder related problems. Pressure loss codes relating to cracked joints.
My own Volvo V50, had all the same issues. I re-solded over three hundred points In the fuse box which is coded to the car, to eliminate brake failure issues that were current related and not physical. The abs pump model as well ..... Unbelievable..
I've recently two other cars with similar issues in the abs pumps...
A great company in blighty repairs them all day long and dashboard clocks and like.
 
Mark Piercy said:
True, but there are a lot of case we're the solder fractures and causes intermittent signal loss on sensitive circuits.
The abs units from a lot of cars mud 2000's have a lot of solder related problems. Pressure loss codes relating to cracked joints.
My own Volvo V50, had all the same issues. I re-solded over three hundred points In the fuse box which is coded to the car, to eliminate brake failure issues that were current related and not physical. The abs pump model as well ..... Unbelievable..
I've recently two other cars with similar issues in the abs pumps...
A great company in blighty repairs them all day long and dashboard clocks and like.
Click to expand...
Fractured solder joints occurred with leaded solder, often from new due to the wave soldering process with the joints cooling too rapidly. Poor mounting design also contributes. I used to do a lot of solder joint repairs on Volvo's for a mate who had a Volvo repair shop, I have also had to do the same on the Transit dash.
In my day we were taught that solder was only there to make an electrical connection, not to provide a mechanical mount.
A fuse box coded to the car? Madness:mad:
 
It's all economic production!! For them but a nightmare for the rest of us!!
As you know the fusebox on a some of the newer vehicles is the heart of the vehicles I.d!
They can be copied just like the becm's on our 38's.
 
Mark Piercy said:
It's all economic production!! For them but a nightmare for the rest of us!!
As you know the fusebox on a some of the newer vehicles is the heart of the vehicles I.d!
They can be copied just like the becm's on our 38's.
Click to expand...
I did not know that, but then I will not go near anything newer than a P38, when the politicians outlaw my cars it will be a pony and trap:( Or maybe a Dacia duster:rolleyes:
 
Datatek said:
I did not know that, but then I will not go near anything newer than a P38, when the politicians outlaw my cars it will be a pony and trap:( Or maybe a Dacia duster:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
With a Renault engine!!
Actually the latest 1.5dci engine us one their best I reckon and they're petrol engines have always been better then the diesels In the past... Apart from the 2.1d and TD versions.
 
Mark Piercy said:
With a Renault engine!!
Actually the latest 1.5dci engine us one their best I reckon and they're petrol engines have always been better then the diesels In the past... Apart from the 2.1d and TD versions.
Click to expand...
When I bought the Xtrail, I looked at the Suzuki Grand Vitara, I was put off by the 1.9 litre Renault engine thinking the 2.2 Nissen lump would be better, how wrong can I be? If I had bought the Vitara I would probably still have it and not a P38.:(
I had a diesel Renault Espace for a while, pretty reliable apart for the sealed for life hydraulic clutch release which had a very short life.
 
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