P38 Air Suspension Pump

A long time ago, last year actualy. I was told by an old timer that you can buy a repair kit for the pump. Is this the truth or just the deranged ramberlings of an old man?

cumberland said:

A long time ago, last year actualy. I was told by an old timer that you can buy a repair kit for the pump. Is this the truth or just the deranged ramberlings of an old man?

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Yep, there everywhere, even on FleaBay!!

Hi
had a suppention pump failure when on holiday last year when in wales had to limp 30 miles on bump stops to buy a new pump £350.got home reconditioned pump with pump seal kit £25 from internet think they were called p38 spares

mike

i recently got the whole internals, cylinder piston conrod crank and seal allready fitted for £80 and its been wonderfull since.
a mate got just the seal and buggered it puting it on, bit hard to do apparently!

Many thanks to all.

redrange said:

i recently got the whole internals, cylinder piston conrod crank and seal allready fitted for £80 and its been wonderfull since.
a mate got just the seal and buggered it puting it on, bit hard to do apparently!

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Where did you get that done mate?

I've got the pump seal kit with instructions to do, but what you had done sounds better.

Cheers

Tris

The eal is retained by a separate ring approx. 3mm thick at the top of the piston which must be carefully prised off without marking it by worrking round the piston head. At first glance, it appears that the seal fits into a groove and the piston is all one piece. When removing the ring, it doesn't matter if the old seal is wrecked prior to removal as you are going to change it anyway. Have a look on rover renovations website for more info. New seal on Egay is around £25 at a guess-they are always listed.

Follow up..
2nd word, 1st line should read seal.
The condition of the cylinder bore is important. If it is badly scored, it will chew the new seal up in no time-it should be nice and smooth As far as I know, the cylinder is not available separately, only as part of an overhaul kit around £80 which has conrod,bearing, piston with seal fitted, cylinder and "O" rings.

Irishrover said:

Follow up..
2nd word, 1st line should read seal.
The condition of the cylinder bore is important. If it is badly scored, it will chew the new seal up in no time-it should be nice and smooth As far as I know, the cylinder is not available separately, only as part of an overhaul kit around £80 which has conrod,bearing, piston with seal fitted, cylinder and "O" rings.

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Cool, thanks matey.

I've got that kit of eGay, and have detailed instructions, but was worried when I read the above posts and thought that the £80 overhaul was a better option. Do you know where the overhaul kits can be had from?

Cheers

Tris

Okay, you have the kit-it's a doddle, take you around 45mins and your suspension won't drop or the air gush out when you remove the compressor because there is a non return valve in the system.
Have a look on Range Rover Air Suspension solutions by Rover Renovations, Inc. and there are step by step photo's on how to do it. If the old parts are o.k apart from the seal, why not refurb the old parts with a new seal only and keep them as a spare

Thanks for the plug Mike, I do sell the seals and the full kit on the web and ebay, the seal is good as long as you have not got too much damage to the cly wall, full kits are on there way and will be avalible at the beg of Feb, my advice is to dismantle the pump and have a look at the piston and cyl wall, the change takes about 30 miunutes for a seal and 15 for a full kit, you just have to be a bit steady when fitting a seal on its own. Regards, Andy

HELP NEEDED: I seem to have the same problem as others (suddenly P38 has dropped onto stops, lights flashing on height switch). I'm assuming it is the compressor because I'm sure I have a leak in the system somewhere (it took longer than average to reach full height and dropped back down when left alone quicker than usual). I'm guessing this has put extra strain on the compressor whilst I have been driving like this?

Can anyone confirm if it is likely this is the case?

If so, if I simply replace the compressor part as mentioned above, will I still need to get anything 'reset' by LR to enable it to work OK again?

If so, are there people that can come out (mobile) to 'reset' the system to save me getting it recovered to my dealer and then have the troubles associated with that?

Thanks for ANY help - feel quite desperate at the moment and not sure which way to turn.

Hi, it could be the compressor but it may be a leak somewhere else, take the inlet filter off the pump and see if it is sucking, it may be the seal has worn out, also you could check if leaks are elsewhere on the system by using good old fairy liquid ( not near any electrics though!) if you are local to me I can put my computer on it for you, I am located in Oxfordshire.

Regards,

Andy

Thanks Andy - will check that out. I'm in Hertford, Herts so not a million miles away but getting to you isn't ideal (although I think I would be able to use AA at no cost!).
IF I could get it to you and you had a kit in stock then I would be happy to pay you to fix it for me? Is that something you could do?

Thanks again for your help - Len

Hi Len, I could do it for you but I don't normally do repair work myself. let me know how you get on and give me a call, I have emailed you my phone number. Andy

Herts78, best remove your email from this post, esle your gonna get lots of invites for viagra, Nigerian millinairs etc, suggest you PM P38 instead

BandM said:

Herts78, best remove your email from this post, esle your gonna get lots of invites for viagra, Nigerian millinairs etc, suggest you PM P38 instead

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Thanks and done - although I could use a Nigerian Millionaire at the moment - perhaps not the viagra though!!!

it took me about 20 mins to do. the hardest part was loosening the allen headed grub screw that holds the crank onto the motor spindle, it was bloody tight!

Surprising the difference a gallon of Loctite will make!!!