Hello gents.
I have a 1999 P38 diesel with 380.000km.
I’ve been venting my previous issues on rangerovers.net but I’ve come to realize there are far more diesel knowledge on this site so now I’ve registered here to continue my crusade.
The car was running fine all things considered. Non chipped. Engine has never been opened as far as service history can tell.
The FIP however had developed a leak during the winter which caused it to start poorly. Had to crank the starter motor for quite a while. But it ran fine otherwise.
In February this year I finally got around to adress the leak.
I removed the pump and located the leak to the rear of the pump between the housing and the rear flange where the delivery valves sits.
Found a description on a dudes website on a similar pump how to replace that O-ring without removing the flange completely.
That worked fine and I put the pump back and started to set the static timing. I did this a year or so back when I swapped the pump earlier.
Though I must confess this time I had some difficulty remembering how to obtain the correct timing. Read the rave manual to refresh my memory and then set the static to 0,9mm with last pump movement towards the engine.
Locked it in place and test started it. Fired right away without any leaks.
Assembled the rest and happy as I was I drove it home the same night.
It starts like a dream now. Changed the glow plugs at the same time to the brand named welleman from Island 4x4.
But soon I noticed the car was behaving slugggishly when cold. It’s like it has problems to rev up while drive is engaged.
While trying to drive away from idle with drive engaged it is painfully, embarrassingly and above all dangerously slow to gain speed.
When the turbo kicks in it’s better. This symptom is gone when the vehicle is nice and hot. Which led me to suspect the cold and the ATF to be harder to pump around or something. This symptom remained through spring and now it’s june and warmer. So yeah. Probably not transmission related.
Another example:
Cruise control engaged in 80km/h.
Tachometer reads ca 1800RPM when in lock up in 4th. Boost at 0.3bar
The slightest incline leads to losing speed and eventually the transmission kicks down into 2nd gear I believe to get back to the set speed.
A third example:
The other day I was almost late for work and floored it on the free way. I could not go faster than 140km/h and when reaching a hill it started to lose speed. Then I got fed up with this lack of power.
And here I am now writing this absurdly long post.
One thing I was thinking about is how important is the static timing when the pump can modulate the timing itself within reasonable limits? If static timing is a little bit retarded for example?
I have no diagnostics so I cannot check modulation.
Is it possible a timing chain might be off a tooth?
Turbo boost looks fine. It peaks at 1.3bar and boost responds quite all right when revving.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thank you in advance.
I have a 1999 P38 diesel with 380.000km.
I’ve been venting my previous issues on rangerovers.net but I’ve come to realize there are far more diesel knowledge on this site so now I’ve registered here to continue my crusade.
The car was running fine all things considered. Non chipped. Engine has never been opened as far as service history can tell.
The FIP however had developed a leak during the winter which caused it to start poorly. Had to crank the starter motor for quite a while. But it ran fine otherwise.
In February this year I finally got around to adress the leak.
I removed the pump and located the leak to the rear of the pump between the housing and the rear flange where the delivery valves sits.
Found a description on a dudes website on a similar pump how to replace that O-ring without removing the flange completely.
That worked fine and I put the pump back and started to set the static timing. I did this a year or so back when I swapped the pump earlier.
Though I must confess this time I had some difficulty remembering how to obtain the correct timing. Read the rave manual to refresh my memory and then set the static to 0,9mm with last pump movement towards the engine.
Locked it in place and test started it. Fired right away without any leaks.
Assembled the rest and happy as I was I drove it home the same night.
It starts like a dream now. Changed the glow plugs at the same time to the brand named welleman from Island 4x4.
But soon I noticed the car was behaving slugggishly when cold. It’s like it has problems to rev up while drive is engaged.
While trying to drive away from idle with drive engaged it is painfully, embarrassingly and above all dangerously slow to gain speed.
When the turbo kicks in it’s better. This symptom is gone when the vehicle is nice and hot. Which led me to suspect the cold and the ATF to be harder to pump around or something. This symptom remained through spring and now it’s june and warmer. So yeah. Probably not transmission related.
Another example:
Cruise control engaged in 80km/h.
Tachometer reads ca 1800RPM when in lock up in 4th. Boost at 0.3bar
The slightest incline leads to losing speed and eventually the transmission kicks down into 2nd gear I believe to get back to the set speed.
A third example:
The other day I was almost late for work and floored it on the free way. I could not go faster than 140km/h and when reaching a hill it started to lose speed. Then I got fed up with this lack of power.
And here I am now writing this absurdly long post.
One thing I was thinking about is how important is the static timing when the pump can modulate the timing itself within reasonable limits? If static timing is a little bit retarded for example?
I have no diagnostics so I cannot check modulation.
Is it possible a timing chain might be off a tooth?
Turbo boost looks fine. It peaks at 1.3bar and boost responds quite all right when revving.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thank you in advance.
