P38 2.5DSE 96/97 Water pump
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RangeRoller dt
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Ramps as in front sticking up in air? Try bleeding it on a flat surface. Little bit of revs get the pump turning. Has to be up to operating temperature obviously. Squeeze the hoses you should hear sploshing but no air
If you suspect gasket failure or similar can can get a cheap ‘sniff test’ kit will show for certain.
If you suspect gasket failure or similar can can get a cheap ‘sniff test’ kit will show for certain.
yes, front sticking up in the air.
I do little bit of revs, i squeeze abit on the hoses etc...
Can't say i hear a splosh. When i squeeze however, the small hole at top of the coolant cap base thingy it sploshes out abit, a mixture of coolant and air it seems, the flow stops for a second or two and it starts again. It's not a huge flow, but it is steady and going down into the expansion tank...
I did however hear the splosh mentioned at the very first stage of bleeding. Just by squeesing the hoses right after fill.
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Sounds to me like you're doing all the right things. I don't worry too much about precise temperatures as long as the needle is roughly in the middle at idle but Datatek will know.
Certainly could be the odd airlock. Get as much as you can out then hold the revs at 2000 and see if anything comes out.
Certainly could be the odd airlock. Get as much as you can out then hold the revs at 2000 and see if anything comes out.
tomcat59alan
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Do you get any heat out of the heater?
yes, heats up very nice.
tomcat59alan
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Hopefully you have had an airlock which has cleared, take it for a run, make sure you take spare coolant with you.good luck.
Im unsure id i should invest in a coolant filler, you know thoose who makes a vacuum in the System and fills up coolant to correct level first go (which leaves no airlock???) . Its like 80£,
If not i surely must Invest in a cylinder gasket test? Even tho no signs of that being off? I just find it odd no air will get out of my system.
im almost dumbfounded in what to do.
Guess i do have a crack in the engine?
If not i surely must Invest in a cylinder gasket test? Even tho no signs of that being off? I just find it odd no air will get out of my system.
im almost dumbfounded in what to do.
Guess i do have a crack in the engine?
tomcat59alan
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If you have a cracked engine then you would have wasted €80 If the coolant level is correct in the expansion tank and you have no visible leaks and have flow from the small radiator pipe to the expansion tank then I would be inclined to do what I said in post #207 have the heater on full all the time,if it starts to blow cold STOP. Do you have recovery cover? Did you change the filler cap? you've changed so much I forget. Good luck you deserve it.Im unsure id i should invest in a coolant filler, you know thoose who makes a vacuum in the System and fills up coolant to correct level first go (which leaves no airlock???) . Its like 80£,
If not i surely must Invest in a cylinder gasket test? Even tho no signs of that being off? I just find it odd no air will get out of my system.
im almost dumbfounded in what to do.
Guess i do have a crack in the engine?
If you have a cracked engine then you would have wasted €80 If the coolant level is correct in the expansion tank and you have no visible leaks and have flow from the small radiator pipe to the expansion tank then I would be inclined to do what I said in post #207 have the heater on full all the time,if it starts to blow cold STOP. Do you have recovery cover? Did you change the filler cap? you've changed so much I forget. Good luck you deserve it.[/QUOTE
yeah i got recovery trough my insurance. Even a rental
i changed the filler cap yes. Dont think it is at fault tho.
i guess im just gonna run the heater hot. Its winter around the corner anyhow.
Is there hope that the airlock will clear out more by having heater on anyhow?
Datatek
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95C is optimum running temperature, the gauge is at 12 o'clock from about 85C to over 100C on mine. There are 2 temperature sensors, one for the EDC and a different one for the gauge, I think the Nanocom displays temperature from the EDC sensor, so the problem with the gauge could simply be a duff sensor, it's the one at the front of the head under the manifold. A bad connection/earth with also cause the gauge to fluctuate.Seems i have quite the problem bleeding it
I Didn't blow trough the small bleed hose which goes from top of rad to expansion tank, but i will say that it does run coolant out of it when engine is idling and thermostat is open.
My symptoms are still that the gauge is fluctuating. It was at red 2 times, then it went down to 12 o clock again... Nanocom said i have around 85-90 ish celsius at idle with heater off. Heater on is under 80 celsius idle.
What are the OK temps to drive this thing at? isnt 90degrees operating temp? so, 95 would be hot hot and 100 would be meaning somethings wrong rigth?
My understanding is that 12 o clock could be 70-90 degrees?
One thing to note is that its almost worse than how it performed earlier, so it should just mean i have a bigger air lock????
I've changed waterpump, thermostat (opens 1 degree faster, 79celsius) and yes ive put the thermostat in a pot of hot water, it works.
also done both belts and tensioner pulleys and idler pulley.
So i must either have an airlock or just a trash engine/ crack in the head/block?
I find it odd that my coolant has no oil in it, or oil having coolant...
And all of this was good and not any issues before i changed my heater matrix o rings... (and had the hoses at matrix of)
Raise the front of the car and with the cap off the expansion tank and the engine idling, rapidly squeeze and release the rad hoses, that should eliminate any air in my experience.
Flossie
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I just filled mine up and it seemed to sort itself out. 140miles so far with no issues, gauge doesn't fluctuate.
Did your stat have a bleed hole and was it at 12'o' clock?
Did your stat have a bleed hole and was it at 12'o' clock?
cheers
will try to swap the sensor as i have more of them. I did un plug my sensor when i took the manifold off… you dont know if its a green/black/brown one? I believe i have a black and green sensor. Or black and brown.
Guess ill buy some electrical connection cleaner aswell. Maybe its irred abit.
i made a 5mm bleed hole for it at 12 o clock yes
My first 10-15 squeezes i did get alot of sploshing in the tank. Air escaping i believe.
maybe @Datatek does have a point in my sensor being a bellend
Wouldnt the nanocom throw a code tho?
Ill definetly replace the sensor anyhow as fluctuating between 12 o clock and red in 2 seconds are absurd.
tomcat59alan
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The front sensor should be blue I believe,the middle is green,the rear is black which is only fitted to later models to switch on the a/c fans in the case of an overheat. @RangeRoller dt said the front could be brown depending on whether it's a single or double wire connectorcheers
you dont know if its a green/black/brown one? I believe i have a black and green sensor. Or black and brown.
Guess ill buy some electrical connection cleaner aswell. Maybe its irred abit.
Flossie
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Dunno, I'm a nanocom virgin , still learning. You can force the gauge with nanocom I know that.i made a 5mm bleed hole for it at 12 o clock yes
My first 10-15 squeezes i did get alot of sploshing in the tank. Air escaping i believe.
maybe @Datatek does have a point in my sensor being a bellend
Wouldnt the nanocom throw a code tho?
Ill definetly replace the sensor anyhow as fluctuating between 12 o clock and red in 2 seconds are absurd.
Okay, im coming with a bullet now. My viscous fan is as «resistant» whilst spinning, as cold and hot.
Is it ment to stay the samw «resistant» against me trying to spin it around?
Engine off obviously. Tested this after a 20km run, but i stop the car when it hits the red warning lamp… even tho nanocom says 96celsius (still pretty high at heater on full and it being 8-9 degrees outside plus rain.)
Is it ment to stay the samw «resistant» against me trying to spin it around?
Engine off obviously. Tested this after a 20km run, but i stop the car when it hits the red warning lamp… even tho nanocom says 96celsius (still pretty high at heater on full and it being 8-9 degrees outside plus rain.)
tomcat59alan
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Photo required of said pipe I think.Can you stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper when the engine is up to temperature?
Datatek
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Fan should lock initially from starting then free off, locking up again when hot. The viscous fails regularly, the standard test is to put a tightly rolled newspaper into the blades when the engine is good and hot, if the fan slows or stops it's knackered.
If it's knackered you need my aircon fans mod.
