Overheating

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Surely there must be an underlying fault that is causing the overheating in the first place? Otherwise they would of needed this mod from when the cars were new?
 
There is no switch in my radiator as I fitted it
There are two types of sensor one with air con one with out differnt wires on plug maybe air con senses condenser is getting hot this turns fan on also need to know how hot car is there is also a sensor on the heater matrix pipes too
Due to water temp but its not for assisting engine coolant its for cooling condensor as not all range rovers had air con mine dismantled and I'm not overheating !
Late P38's have a third sensor in the head at the back by the bulkhead, it's a switch that operates at about 110C to bring the fans on in an overheat. My mod brings the fans on at whatever temperature you select, normally this would be slightly above normal running temperature as on all cars with electric cooling.
The third sensor is not detailed in RAVE.
 
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May be an airlock or a duff viscous fan as well as water pump and stat, even a partially blocked rad.

Thinking of the duff viscous fan but hoping that it's not. When engine was hot but newspaper between and the fan stopped.

Changing the waterpump now so we'll see I hope. When I revved the engine no water was coming in to the expansion bay and the radiator was pretty empty.
 
Thinking of the duff viscous fan but hoping that it's not. When engine was hot but newspaper between and the fan stopped.

Changing the waterpump now so we'll see I hope. When I revved the engine no water was coming in to the expansion bay and the radiator was pretty empty.
If the fan stopped when hot, it's fecked and that's the reason for the overheating.
 
Does the P38 have a system to cut the engine in event of severe overheat?

Also, why would turning on the aircon fans additionally help? Since the viscous fan seems to be much more powerful even at idle {citation needed} wouldn't it overrule the effect of the electric fans if both ran together?
 
Does the P38 have a system to cut the engine in event of severe overheat?

Also, why would turning on the aircon fans additionally help? Since the viscous fan seems to be much more powerful even at idle {citation needed} wouldn't it overrule the effect of the electric fans if both ran together?
The aircon fans would add to the airflow generated by the viscous. At idle, they push a lot more air through the RAD than the viscous.
With a severe overheat, the engine should go into limp mode, it usually dies first:eek:
 
Late P38's have a third sensor in the head at the back by the bulkhead, it's a switch that operates at about 110C to bring the fans on in an overheat. My mod brings the fans on at whatever temperature you select, normally this would be slightly above normal running temperature as on all cars with electric cooling.
The third switch is not detailed in RAVE.

Ok thank you datatek so its an emergency operation that does not affect normal cooling in any way . The early models don't have this do they ie pre 96
 
Does the P38 have a system to cut the engine in event of severe overheat?

Also, why would turning on the aircon fans additionally help? Since the viscous fan seems to be much more powerful even at idle {citation needed} wouldn't it overrule the effect of the electric fans if both ran together?

The viscous is a sucking fan not blowing that's why you have a cowling
 
The aircon fans would add to the airflow generated by the viscous. At idle, they push a lot more air through the RAD than the viscous.
With a severe overheat, the engine should go into limp mode, it usually dies first:eek:

Die as in self cuts or die as in actually dead..?
 
So I seem to have sorted the car for now.
Changed the waterpump along with the ac comp band and the generator one.

Have attached a photo of the old water pump.

Was overheating it first but i put revved it up and bubbles came from the expansion tank, it was a lot of air in the engine. It doesn't overheat now.

Now for the next issue. If I let the car be for like 15 min and come back to it, it's hard to start. The diesel to the engine seems to go back into the filter.

Don't say new pump for the engine.... :flame:

Thanks for your help!

image.jpg
 
So I seem to have sorted the car for now.
Changed the waterpump along with the ac comp band and the generator one.

Have attached a photo of the old water pump.

Was overheating it first but i put revved it up and bubbles came from the expansion tank, it was a lot of air in the engine. It doesn't overheat now.

Now for the next issue. If I let the car be for like 15 min and come back to it, it's hard to start. The diesel to the engine seems to go back into the filter.

Don't say new pump for the engine.... :flame:

Thanks for your help!

image.jpg
ouch the the water pump :)

Air leak or your in tank pump is becoming Intermittent if you can't find leak of pump is fine you can fit a one way valve
 
Ok, thanks for that. A new intank pump was just recently fitted so asuming that some of the bolts aren't sitting as they should.

Also the left right side of the car is dropping if the car is parked for more than 30 min.

Can't hear any airleak from it, so assuming that the airbag is fine. Let the tailgate be open for one hour and the car didn't drop. Will make a search on the forum to see if someone has had similiar issue.

If I remember correctly I didn't fit the bolt going to engine so hard that the spring enabled.

Thanks for the help everyone!!!
 
Ok, thanks for that. A new intank pump was just recently fitted so asuming that some of the bolts aren't sitting as they should.

Also the left right side of the car is dropping if the car is parked for more than 30 min.

Can't hear any airleak from it, so assuming that the airbag is fine. Let the tailgate be open for one hour and the car didn't drop. Will make a search on the forum to see if someone has had similiar issue.

If I remember correctly I didn't fit the bolt going to engine so hard that the spring enabled.

Thanks for the help everyone!!!
no such thing as left right, left or right front or rear
 
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